Looking nice. Recommend putting another piece of extra hose on the lines at rub points for the coolant lines. One of mine ate thru shortly after I got the truck.
'86 Extended cab project thread
- Thread starter BlindAmbition
- Start date
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I'll agree with this suggestion. I've replaced MANY heater hoses because of this. It may not look very attractive, but it sure beats the heck out of finding out that you have a hole rubbed in a hose by the steam coming out from under your hood while your truck straddles a ever-widening green lake.
BlindAmbition
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I redid the heater lines, still need to add one small piece near the alternator bracket once everything gets tightened up and I see where that hose actually lies. I also cut the valve handles much shorter to clean those up and massaged the passenger wheel well plastic with a heat gun to let the filter sit better.
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BlindAmbition
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Injection pump went in, roughed in for now, will finalize plumbing after ZF5 swap
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BlindAmbition
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Custom power steering hose required for Hydroboost to Saginaw pump run
Hydroboost is not 18mm as shop thought, it is 11/16-18 O ring. Saginaw pump fitting I used was 16mm. Purchased adapters to 6AN (3/8 JIC) and made up a custom hose
Russell/Edelbrock number for the fitting to fit my pump is 648040
Hydroboost is not 18mm as shop thought, it is 11/16-18 O ring. Saginaw pump fitting I used was 16mm. Purchased adapters to 6AN (3/8 JIC) and made up a custom hose
Russell/Edelbrock number for the fitting to fit my pump is 648040
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BlindAmbition
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Installed battery box under passenger door to clear up some engine bay room for eventual front mount turbo
Additional shot of frame pump and water separator setup - Water separator is plumbed first, though it does not look like it.
Additional shot of frame pump and water separator setup - Water separator is plumbed first, though it does not look like it.
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BlindAmbition
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Starting ZF5 swap today, going to go get some all thread to make some studs for the top bolts to guide it in, will see how this goes, never done anything like it. Figured I don't want to deal with vacuum lines, pump, linkages, etc with the C6 so just toss the ZF5 I want in there anyways. Luk flywheel and clutch kit arrived today. ZF5 came with a dual mass flywheel but it's moving more than the 5/8ths so doing a single mass swap.
Clutch master/slave has the hydraulic line cut so I ordered 3an adapters and will figure out what length hose to use once it is all installed.
Clutch master/slave has the hydraulic line cut so I ordered 3an adapters and will figure out what length hose to use once it is all installed.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
When I do this, I use the bottom two bolt holes. They are the easiest to get to while under the truck. I also weld a nut or two onto the all thread so that it acts like a long bolt. Then I can use it to slowly, carefully draw the engine and transmission together. After the threads are engaged in the bolt holes, the two won't separate in something unexpected happens. I also leave the manual transmission (ZF5 in your case) in gear so that I can turn the output by hand to help line up the splines on the input shaft and the clutch plate.
david85
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Hmm. Yet another coolant filter installation. Might have to put that on the wish-list.
BlindAmbition
Full Access Member
How long is the all thread you use in this case? I was essentially going to use it as dowel pins on the top, but I like your idea. Length would help with a mental picture.
BlindAmbition
Full Access Member
Got the C6 transmission out, never done one before. Will be selling it along with a Laylock (Gearvendors) unit with the C6 housing Used a harbor freight flat dolly, a floor jack, a piece of MDF, and a couple of ratchet straps.
Also made some big wood blocks to brace the back wheels. Had to tip the transmission forward while rolling it out in order to clear the gas tank/frame area, but the wheels on the dolly helped move it easily.
Also slightly braced the engine with a bottle jack and a block
Crossmember took a little encouraging to get out, the way I'd strapped the trans to the jack sort of blocked it in place. Came out with a couple of minutes of effort, not too bad.
Also made some big wood blocks to brace the back wheels. Had to tip the transmission forward while rolling it out in order to clear the gas tank/frame area, but the wheels on the dolly helped move it easily.
Also slightly braced the engine with a bottle jack and a block
Crossmember took a little encouraging to get out, the way I'd strapped the trans to the jack sort of blocked it in place. Came out with a couple of minutes of effort, not too bad.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I'd have to dig it out this weekend to be sure. Off the top of my head, I'd have to say around 6" long. Another reason to use the bottom two holes is that they are through holes and you can actually completely tighten the "bolts" all the way up. Just remember that these aren't used to force the engine and transmission together. They are used to basically hold them in place while you work the two together by hand. If you do use them to pull them together, only go one or two threads at a time to make sure that nothing's in a bind. Go gently and gradually and you'll get it together fairly easily. A reason that I don't like to use the top two holes is firewall clearance. If you're installing a transmission, it will be tilted backward with no crossmember installed, but if you forget to remove the all thread form the holes or are installing an engine with the transmission in place, you don't have much room to get the all thread back out of those two holes.
BlindAmbition
Full Access Member
Perfect - I bought a 12" piece of all thread. After getting the C6 transmission out I see why you'd use the bottom bolts, makes no sense to use the top ones. I was thinking it would help support guiding it in from the top but it would only hinder the process.
Stu Bailey
Full Access Member
Great build thread, I’m looking forward to more 
BlindAmbition
Full Access Member
Dealing with issues related to
Exhaust - https://www.oilburners.net/threads/funky-exhaust-setup.89305/
Driveshaft - https://www.oilburners.net/threads/2wd-c6-to-zf5-driveshaft-question.89344/
Throwout bearing - https://www.oilburners.net/threads/zf5-swap-another-throwout-bearing-question.89335/
Waiting on the crankshaft repair sleeve to arrive so I can do my rear main seal and install the ZF5 before measuring the driveshaft length and figuring out what to do. Throwout bearing is on the way as well, can get a flywheel bearing locally in town, LUK kits don't seem to have the greatest reputation for those either. Rest of the kit seems solid enough.
TI have a 155" wheelbase, the cab and chassis seem to have 160.8. Seems to me it would be easier to shorten a driveshaft than lengthen it so I am going to hit a parts yard and grab the driveshaft from one of the ZF5 cab and chassis models. Hoping they aren't the models with parking brakes, those are the same as a 4x4 end so driveshaft length would be off still. In any case, junkyards are sweet and it's always worth checking out.
Exhaust - https://www.oilburners.net/threads/funky-exhaust-setup.89305/
Driveshaft - https://www.oilburners.net/threads/2wd-c6-to-zf5-driveshaft-question.89344/
Throwout bearing - https://www.oilburners.net/threads/zf5-swap-another-throwout-bearing-question.89335/
Waiting on the crankshaft repair sleeve to arrive so I can do my rear main seal and install the ZF5 before measuring the driveshaft length and figuring out what to do. Throwout bearing is on the way as well, can get a flywheel bearing locally in town, LUK kits don't seem to have the greatest reputation for those either. Rest of the kit seems solid enough.
TI have a 155" wheelbase, the cab and chassis seem to have 160.8. Seems to me it would be easier to shorten a driveshaft than lengthen it so I am going to hit a parts yard and grab the driveshaft from one of the ZF5 cab and chassis models. Hoping they aren't the models with parking brakes, those are the same as a 4x4 end so driveshaft length would be off still. In any case, junkyards are sweet and it's always worth checking out.
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