'86 Extended cab project thread

BlindAmbition

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Starting a build thread as some of this information may be useful to someone as many of the threads posted here have been useful.

The project is a 1986 Bullnose extended cab 6.9 IDI with ~146k if the odometer is correct.

It has Banks stickers, but no turbo, yet has some Banks parts such as the CDR block off plate on the intake and the CDR/draft tube relocate piece.

So far parts for the following have been sourced:

Hydroboost
Saginaw pump
3g Alternator
BB Code injectors
7.3 pump
Electric fans from a Windstar
Battery relocate box, moving one battery to frame to clear up room
Electric fuel pumps
38 gallon rear tank with manual fuel selector
Custom wiring harness

The goal is to get the truck up and running first before trying to install a turbo. Given there is not much room to work the engine cannot be pulled and all work is being done in the truck where it sits.

Since the engine cannot be pulled, work is being performed such that it is possible to source a good engine and drop it into an already improved engine bay should I need to.


Before

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BlindAmbition

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Steps and pictures will be added in no particular order until current

This is a Bronco fuel tank, believed to be 38 gallons that cost $15. Local junkyard pops holes in them to drain, it's been patched, cleaned, tested for leaks and POR-15ed. Original sender will be used and the tubes extended since the gasoline fuel pump has been removed.

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BlindAmbition

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Testing injectors - Have 2 sets of BB code injectors to work through. Also 2 sets of D code injectors to get through at some point.

This injector tester is the cheap Amazon/eBay variant. I took the advice of this video and took it apart and rebuilt it. It works well now, am working on replacing the gauge with something more accurate - VIDEO LINK HERE

It uses an odd gauge mount size - M20x1.5mm, looking for an adapter from that to 1/4 NPT to utilize a better gauge, possibly an electronic gauge. eBay has one for roughly $15 shipped, trying to find it locally first.

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BlindAmbition

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Walnut blasted this injection pump from a 7.3 NA Super Duty - reply with how bad an idea that was. I taped and plugged all passages first. If this somehow ruins it, there are 3 others sitting on the shelf that can be utilized. 1 from a 7.3 NA and two others, including the original to the motor, from 6.9s.

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BlindAmbition

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Pulled the front cover seal and made up an install tool to put the new one in. Found descriptions regarding how to install without a press or the correct tool. This one is made from a $1 cutting board and a piece of wood that utilizes a harmonic balancer/steering wheel style removal tool. Also used something similar to remove the seal in the first place while the front plate was still attached to the engine. Truth be told, front plate needed to be bolted on again in order to remove the seal.

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Philip1

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Testing injectors - Have 2 sets of BB code injectors to work through. Also 2 sets of D code injectors to get through at some point.

This injector tester is the cheap Amazon/eBay variant. I took the advice of this video and took it apart and rebuilt it. It works well now, am working on replacing the gauge with something more accurate - VIDEO LINK HERE

It uses an odd gauge mount size - M20x1.5mm, looking for an adapter from that to 1/4 NPT to utilize a better gauge, possibly an electronic gauge. eBay has one for roughly $15 shipped, trying to find it locally first.

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Be careful with that injector pop tester. I bought that one before and every time I used it, it sent junk into the injector and hung it open, it took a while with talking to Justin at r&d to figure out why all these injectors were failing immediately.
 

BlindAmbition

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It has been fully disassembled a couple of times at this point and cleaned inside and out, hoping it is enough. Bottle jack/hydraulic ram DIY tester would be the next step if this one fails or causes issues.
 

BlindAmbition

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Modified the fuel pickup in both tanks using PEX line. Added a dedicated ground as the POR-15 on the tanks prevents a solid ground, didn't want to risk installing them then finding out later.

Tapped hole for a bolt for ground (not screwed down in picture)
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BlindAmbition

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My original 19 gallon tank had a bad sender (10-73 ohms)

The new-to-me Bronco (33 gallon, 38?) tank had a bad sender as well (16-158 ohms)

I am installing aftermarket gauges and a custom gauge cluster so I decided to switch everything over to a 16-158 ohm sender due to the scarcity of the 10-73 ohm senders. After researching I found a replacement sender for the gasser vehicles. I removed the sender rheostat boards and transplanted them into my already modified sending units, then hooked up my gauge with a bench power supply and checked that they did not measure backwards (E reading as F and vice versa). Below are links to both the sending units as well as the Autometer gauge I am using. It works well on the bench, I am not to the point of filling up the tanks or having the gauge installed yet.

https://www.amazon.com/Sender-1989-...ywords=ford+fuel+sender&qid=1612940255&sr=8-4

https://www.autometer.com/2-fuel-level-16-e-158f-sse.html

I neglected to get pictures of the actual transplant. The new senders are of dubious quality, however it was worth the attempt for me in order to not recreate the floating arm. On the plus side I am now able to scavenge any junkyard senders in good condition and reuse the boards out of them as I find them. Pictured are the Amazon sender as well as one of the bad sending boards as well as a good sending board from a gasser that I saved for the future.


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BlindAmbition

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Custom gauge cluster in progress

I tried to freehand the gauge mounting to less than desirable results. I ended up making a gauge template and using that to get the rough basics. It still required spacers to be fabricated. It is made of wood for now until I can make something more permanent, of course understanding it's not the most fireproof design. Full disclosure - I got (stole, lol) the idea from this thread on Fullsizebronco.

https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/autometer-gauge-install-1985-bronco.462849/

Also on the bottom left I removed the headlight switch/dimmer and the wiper control. I will be changing how those items work and relocating them elsewhere. In place of the I am putting electronic oil temp, mechanical fuel pressure, and a fuel level gauge (Z-series isn't available in what I need, going to model paint it black).

The template isn't perfect but was able to work for me. It is attached as a PDF, make sure to print it in poster mode.


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BlindAmbition

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Fuel filter setup installed

Cat 2 micron filter with Baldwin water separator/filter down on frame below, will get pictures of that later today.

Setup for AN hose to the IP and a second hose to the fuel pressure gauge with a needle valve to prevent flutter

Extra length service loop for hose for if I change it down the road

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BlindAmbition

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Lincoln Mark VIII fan bracket made, it's not pretty but should work. Figuring out final mounting today

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BlindAmbition

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Heater core bypass valves and inline filter setup installed, sans filter (on order)

Used hose clamps, ran out, found that PEX 3/4" crimp fittings fit and may switch most things to those.

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