MTKirk
Full Access Member
I used the free loan a tool from O'reilly's to pull mine
7.3 Head Gasket Replacement-ARP Head Stud Install
- Thread starter tbrumm
- Start date
I used the free loan a tool from O'reilly's to pull mine
remember to RTV the crank bolt washer when you put it on.
or shell leak!
or shell leak!
tbrumm
Full Access Member
Thanks for the reminder, Brian. I did see that in the shop manual - gotta make sure I remember that when I finally get to reassembly.
tbrumm
Full Access Member
Okay, I am finally back to making some progress on getting the heads back on the truck. Did a bunch of parts cleaning and painting over the long weekend. @homelessduck got me fixed up with a different oil cooler to replace my badly corroded one (thanks again homelessduck!) and that should get here this week. The oil cooler has to go on before I install the heads of course. I have had the heads back from the machine shop for a couple of weeks now and finally got around to getting them painted and ready for install. BUT (and you knew there was going to be a but-there always is), I found a minor problem. Here is a quiz for you guys that have worked on IDI heads before. I have attached a couple of pics showing what I believe to be wrong, but it isn't very obvious. Some may not recognize it as a problem (and maybe it really isn't for all I know), but the Ford shop manual says it is. Since it is kind of hard to see in the pics, I will provide a hint: it concerns the exhaust valves. Thanks for looking.
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79jasper
Chickenhawk
Is it the exhaust valve guide/seal?
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tbrumm
Full Access Member
You are the winner, 79jasper! Thanks for playing
. These are the OEM exhaust valve seals, and they are supposed to be snapped up into the spring retainer. The shop manual says if these seals are allowed to "float" on the stem, "excessive oil consumption will result". In another thread, Russ @typ4 mentioned that the aftermarket exhaust seals do float on the stems. I disassembled all the exhaust valves and snapped the seals up into the retainers like they are supposed to be. Each seal seated with a satisfying "snap" and is held in place, except for one
. One appears to have been slightly malformed when it was made and it will not snap in and stay. I have attached a pic, and the sharpie is pointing to that part of the seal that is a little bit thicker and lower that the rest of it and will not snap in. Guess I will be buying another OEM seal. My questions is: are the aftermarket seals actually better that the OEM seals?
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79jasper
Chickenhawk
That's a question I can't answer. Lol
Only thing that looked a little off though.
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Only thing that looked a little off though.
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tbrumm
Full Access Member
I made some good progress over the weekend and got the heads back on the truck!
I took some pics and will get those posted up as I get more time. I was installing the rocker arms on passengers side and was torquing down the last bolt when I heard a "crick" and felt the bolt "give" (before the torque wrench hit 20lbs obviously.) So I took out the one bolt already torqued and took the rocker pair off. The other bolt had broken, but broke off above the head so I could just unscrew it by hand. I must be living right to get that lucky! I took a look at the broken bolt, and by the staining on it, you could see that there was not much holding it together anymore. Again, I got lucky because this thing could have failed at any time! Now I need a new bolt, and the head of the bolt has the Grade 8 markings. Will a standard 5/16" x 18tpi grade 8 bolt work for this, or was there something special about these rocker bolts? Thanks for the help. Todd
I took some pics and will get those posted up as I get more time. I was installing the rocker arms on passengers side and was torquing down the last bolt when I heard a "crick" and felt the bolt "give" (before the torque wrench hit 20lbs obviously.) So I took out the one bolt already torqued and took the rocker pair off. The other bolt had broken, but broke off above the head so I could just unscrew it by hand. I must be living right to get that lucky! I took a look at the broken bolt, and by the staining on it, you could see that there was not much holding it together anymore. Again, I got lucky because this thing could have failed at any time! Now I need a new bolt, and the head of the bolt has the Grade 8 markings. Will a standard 5/16" x 18tpi grade 8 bolt work for this, or was there something special about these rocker bolts? Thanks for the help. Todd
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tbrumm
Full Access Member
And here is another question! I have installed the ARP studs, and the bottom of the lip on sheet metal stamping under the rocker assembly is sitting directly on top of most of the studs! Is this okay, or is there something wrong here? On a few of the studs there is just a little space between the top of the stud and the stamping, but most are right on top of the stud. Now I cleaned the head bolt hole threads and then chased them with the ARP thread chaser (not a tap) and then installed the studs "hand-tight" per ARP's instructions. Those studs are not going to go any deeper into the block. Has anybody run into this, or am I concerned over nothing? Thanks.
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tbrumm
Full Access Member
I have been making progress on getting the engine back together, and I have needed to as winter is on its way. While the engine itself has been back together for a couple of weeks now, it is all the little stuff that is taking forever, like wiring. Installing a new AC system has taken some time too, but it is getting closer. As a matter of fact, it was close enough that I decided to see if the truck would fire tonight after sitting 4 months torn down. I cranked it a bit to build some oil pressure, then hooked up the fss. After two glow cycles and some more cranking the beast fired up! I quickly realized that I did not have the clamp on the trans cooler return line tightened down as it puked a couple of quarts of atf onto the driveway, so I shut her down. But, at least I know it will start and once everything is buttoned up properly I can get the engine up to temp and see what happens. Sounded good for the couple of minutes it ran though. I have a bunch of pics I need to get loaded up too.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Happy to read you made some idi sounds with this engine...
Nothing sounds sweeter ...
Nothing sounds sweeter ...
Happy to read you made some idi sounds with this engine...
weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeell
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-abV_0A1-j0
I don't care what engine it is, but after YOU take your own engine apart, fix it, and put it back together, there is just no better feeling than hearing that engine fire up.
tbrumm
Full Access Member
I am finally getting around to updating this. The truck has been back on the road for a few weeks now and is once again doing daily driver duty. I am happy to report that it runs very well and there are no leaks! So, on to some pics!
@homelessduck fixed me up with a nice turbo oil cooler and here it is rebuilt and installed (thanks again homelessduck!) Sooooooooooooo much easier to install the oil cooler while the head is off!
@homelessduck fixed me up with a nice turbo oil cooler and here it is rebuilt and installed (thanks again homelessduck!) Sooooooooooooo much easier to install the oil cooler while the head is off!
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