7.3 Head Gasket Replacement-ARP Head Stud Install

[riotwarrior]

Thanks, Brian. My stomach is bit less queasy now. I will check that out after I get the heads picked up. I am also concerned about the pre-cup "recession/protrusion". I think spec. only allows a couple of thou. on that iirc. I will have to look at the spec's in my manual again. I printed all the spec's out and gave 'em to the machinist when I dropped the heads off.

That is a great Idea...sadly many folks SAY no big deal...till it comes time to warranty issues...hopefully it is all good and you have zero issues...0.003 is but a kiss...0.007 is a long kiss of a cut...yes a CUT...

 

[tbrumm]

Brushed up on my pre-cup spec's a bit last night. The "protrusion" above the surface of the head can be up 0.002", but they cannot be recessed below the surface of the head at all. Again, this is something that the machinist should be concerned with and not me as I am not the one machining the heads. From what I have read, the "usual" procedure is to remove the pre-cups, machine the head, and then either recut the recess for the pre-cups deeper or surface grind the pre-cups to meet the 0.002" protrusion spec. I have not picked up the heads yet, but when I do, I am asking a bunch of questions to see what and how it was done. Not saying anything is wrong here (yet), and I made sure that I provided all the spec's to the machinist before hand. I am just surprised one head required the removal of 0.007" to get it flat. I will report back once I have the heads picked up and I can do some measurements.

 

[IDIoit]

make sure they replace those plugs in the heads, if not do them yourself!

that's where I had a water leak.

 

[tbrumm]

Brian, are you talking about the threaded plugs, or the pressed in "freeze" plugs? I assume the freeze plugs? I will ask the machinist about that too. At least those plugs don't require the "special" tool and the special stainless steel plugs like the block does. So here is another question. The truck has now been sitting since about the first week in July. The water pump has been off the front of the engine since then, which means the front timing cover has not had the water pump torque holding it down. Ordinarily, you wouldn't have to worry about replacing the timing cover gasket during a routine water pump replacement, but I am thinking I probably should just r & r the timing cover with new gaskets. And the replace the front crank seal while I am at it, although that has not been leaking. I guess it is time to order a harmonic balancer puller then. Ah, one thing leads to another and on we go!

 

[IDIoit]

the freeze plugs inbetween the intake runners is what im talking about.
and yes I would change the cover gaskets.

 

[tbrumm]

I had a conversation with the machinist a little while ago. I asked him about the plugs between the intake runners. He said he has never had problem with those plugs leaking. I asked him about when he hot tanks the heads if that solution eats out any sealant that is applied to the plugs at the factory. He said no as he uses a "milder" solution because he does so much aluminum head work. I asked if he would replace the plugs if they were his heads and said he would not. He said he will replace the plugs if I request it, but will have to get the plugs, extra time, you all know the story. So, I am going to take a chance on this (and my "chances" have not been working out so well lately either) and I can't say that Brian did not warn me either. The machinist also told me that the right rear pre-cup was "recessed" into the head several thou. and he couldn't believe the HG had gone this long. Well, if I recall one of my earlier posts when I got the heads off, that cylinder had way more carbon build-up on it and I wondered about the injector. The machinist told me I would have been pulling the heads in the not to distant future because of that recessed pre-cup anyway. Now, this engine only has about 108k on it now, and to the best of my knowledge has never been apart, so that pre-cup was that way from day 1.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

The intake gasket should seal against those plugs anyway I think. You could probably add some rtv for added security. This was a concern I had too but didn't want to touch the non leaking ford plugs.

 

[tbrumm]

The intake gasket should seal against those plugs anyway I think. You could probably add some rtv for added security. This was a concern I had too but didn't want to touch the non leaking ford plugs.

Yeah, the valley pan does seal against those, and apparently those holes were open on the 6.9. The Ford OEM upper gasket set I have actually has Loctite gasket eliminator to seal the valley pan to the heads and intake manifold at those location. Maybe I will just use that during installation just in case.

 

[tbrumm]

Well, guys, here is my next dilemma. Of course, I need to pull the front crank pulley and harmonic balancer in order to reseal the front timing cover. Will a generic balancer puller work for this, or do I really need the special tool (which is pretty pricey!http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-ROTUNDA-TOOL-T83T-6316-A-6-9L-DIESEL-CRANK-CAM-GEAR-DAMPER-REMOVER-/111602168415?hash=item19fc01f25f:g:rxQAAOSweW5U5N~w&item=111602168415&vxp=mtr
Would also need this too:http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-ROTUND...:g:UtoAAOSweW5U5Nz3&item=121574034423&vxp=mtr
Can anyone suggest less costly alternatives to these two tools or would soemone be willing to rent these to me? Thanks for any suggestions!

 

[riotwarrior]

I used a normal 2 or 3 jaw puller....that fit into the slots on harmonic pulling from the inner portion not the outter ring...that wouod wreck it it.

JM7.3CW Eh!

 

[tbrumm]

I used a normal 2 or 3 jaw puller....that fit into the slots on harmonic pulling from the inner portion not the outter ring...that wouod wreck it it.

JM7.3CW Eh!

Thanks, Al. I have a 3 jaw puller-I will take a look and see if it might work. I figured pulling on the outside would be no good, that's why I didn't even think of a gear puller.

 

[riotwarrior]

Should be able use 3/2 way plate bolt puller too if long nuff bolts

 

[IDIoit]

a 3 jaw puller wont work. there are 4 bolts on the balancer, so the 3 jaw wont work.
a generic 4 slop puller will work.
you need to use 2 bolts that are 180* from eachother.
I have a nice 2 jaw proto puller with different jaws.

but any 2 jaw will work.

 

[laserjock]

I used a standard harmonic balancer steering wheel puller. I can't remember weather mine was too big or too small but I used all thread and the rods had to bow a touch to fit the puller. Probably wouldn't have worked with grade 8 bolts but it didn't come off too hard.

 

[tbrumm]

Thanks for the replies, Gentlemen! I also have a smaller 2 jaw puller and I will see if that might work. I have a steering wheel puller too. If none of those look like they will work, I may just get one of those generic harmonic balancer puller kits. At least with that I may get future use out of it on some other vehicle. Didn't want to spend the $200+ on a puller I may use once or twice in my life.