1989 F-250 7.3 Project

hacked89

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What is that part called?

Have a link???
Yes it's a motive power bleeder. Changed my brake bleeding game. Look at their application guide to make sure you get the right adapter cap for your truck. Any car now i have a buy the adapter for through them and power bleed it. They will even make custom adapters. I just bought one from them for a 65 caddy I picked up. I always used to manually bleed brakes and no matter what I would do with this truck it wouldn't bleed right. Made me go back to the drawing boards and question what I knew about brakes. Then I just realized there was air in the system still for whatever reason and 30 min later of power bleeding and they were better than some new cars I've driven.
 

Selahdoor

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Yes it's a motive power bleeder. Changed my brake bleeding game. Look at their application guide to make sure you get the right adapter cap for your truck. Any car now i have a buy the adapter for through them and power bleed it. They will even make custom adapters. I just bought one from them for a 65 caddy I picked up. I always used to manually bleed brakes and no matter what I would do with this truck it wouldn't bleed right. Made me go back to the drawing boards and question what I knew about brakes. Then I just realized there was air in the system still for whatever reason and 30 min later of power bleeding and they were better than some new cars I've driven.
The pic I left in there was of the piece that bypasses the RABS valve. Not the power bleeder. :)
 

hacked89

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The pic I left in there was of the piece that bypasses the RABS valve. Not the power bleeder. :)
It's the Rabs bypass from an F-superduty. I learned about it from towcat. Not spoke about much but anytime someone is gonna scrap an F superduty I tell them to take that part off. It's the cleanest way to bypass the RABS that's OEM and bolts right in.
 

Selahdoor

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It's the Rabs bypass from an F-superduty. I learned about it from towcat. Not spoke about much but anytime someone is gonna scrap an F superduty I tell them to take that part off. It's the cleanest way to bypass the RABS that's OEM and bolts right in.
Yep.

Being an oem part, I had kind of hoped that someone here would have figured out what the part number was, by now. LOL I can't find it anywhere.

On edit: The part number is supposedly, F6TZ-2C280-AA. You can find a couple of pictures of parts online using that number that look like the part that Towcat had. And they are old pictures. Not currently available. But most of what I am seeing online now is a tiny stainless proportioning valve.
 
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chillman88

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Yeah they're hard to come by anymore. I plan on just running a new line all the way whenever I get to doing my frame swap.
 

hacked89

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Yep.

Being an oem part, I had kind of hoped that someone here would have figured out what the part number was, by now. LOL I can't find it anywhere.

On edit: The part number is supposedly, F6TZ-2C280-AA. You can find a couple of pictures of parts online using that number that look like the part that Towcat had. And they are old pictures. Not currently available. But most of what I am seeing online now is a tiny stainless proportioning valve.
Yes I / we have the part number from the beginning but they went out of stock and production a long while ago so we are left with pulling them off of trucks. With your location I think you should be able to find one. I live in PA and had to talk a junkyard in Illinois how to find it, remove it and mail it to me.

@miles1400 last couple posts are a good example of why I mentioned to pull this part off the F superduty you found when you called last weekend
 

1mouse3

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On mine there was a pressure sensor before the rabs and nether got put back on. So with me just omited one line out the kit and used a union.


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OH, I was mistaken on the sensors place. Ether way line mix up out the kit worked out in the end.
 
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hacked89

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I haven’t been updating this since Tapatalk was disabled but anyway.

Stripped down ambo motor #1 that was bored 0.040 over and had a cracked number 2. I’m actually glad it sucked the rag in and went to number 2, it highlighted those hairline cracks from early in the thread we’re about to let go. Putting it back together to long block to swap for an IDI-T once the motor below goes in the truck.
You can watch the teardown and diagnosis of ambo motor here:
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I then took a second NA free motor I got from a junk/parts truck and it’s suppose to look like it was just rebuilt right? Tearing it down for studs, comp910 springs and it’s performance parts. Almost don’t want to touch the heads. All the valve seals look new and are intact, even the exhaust. Plugs look brand new. Cross hatch on cylinders.
 

subway

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nice! new subscribe from me. Odd I could not find the video with the search. I had to use the link here.
 

quickster

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Enjoying the videos. The run stand is key. If I keep watching these I'm gonna get the itch to do some upgrades on mine.
 

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