1989 F-250 7.3 Project

[hacked89]

Love the engine stand. Just wondering: with IDI radiators becoming harder to find, you might want to try to test fit an OBS Powerstroke radiator. I know your current project is a brick nose, but I seem to remember something about the early 1994.5 PSDs using IDI radiators as the core suppprt is the same. Again, just saying you might think about simple/more available options from a radiator standpoint in case you need to steal that one off your stand for a actual truck.

And by the way: that stand is killer. All you are missing is a water brake or a giant electric motor so you could put the engine under some load

Thanks and for the radiators I have a second one in the box and if we reach a point with no more idi radiators or they are much more expensive I'll fab something up.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[Big Bart]

So will you make an exhaust for it or just planning on earmuffs, a smokey garage, and waking up the neighbors at 6am?

Looks really nice!

 

[hacked89]

So will you make an exhaust for it or just planning on earmuffs, a smokey garage, and waking up the neighbors at 6am?

Looks really nice!

Exhaust is quiter with a turbo than N/A.

I designed a simple ventilation system for the garage that works well, and keeps it cool to work in even in 90 degree days.

Barrier between the ceiling and roof with reflectic, than a vent in the center, and a commercial greenhouse fan in the side of the building that pulls the air right through and out. It's got some serious power and great ventilation.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[hacked89]

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

I fired the engine up on the stand open headers tonight for the first time. Made a quick video on how to wire starter relay. You can see more of the stand in that video.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Great explanation! The only correction I would make is you kept saying the start button equals the "run" position for the ignition switch, but it would definitely be the "start" position. If it was activating the solenoid in the run position the starter would never turn off as long as the engine was running.

 

[hacked89]

Yep thanks I know that but kept saying run. I had pinned a comment but since it didn't seem to be very visible I'll take it down and re-upload tomorow.

 

[hacked89]

Good news: I started the engine for the first time after the build and it ran great. Video below.
https://streamable.com/34fds2

bad news:
It sucked a rag in through the intake shortly after the video and is ruined. Doesn’t seem like any pieces of the rag went through the oil to the turbo or turbo exhaust side.

on to motor #2...

 

[chillman88]

Gahhhh dang. Sorry to hear that bud. Good thing I didn't buy that spare motor hahahaha

 

[Scotty4]

Damn thats no good!

 

[snicklas]

I am not trying to stir the pot, and asking a serious question....

A rag got sucked into the turbo.. I understand that can damage or destroy the turbo. But, how does this destroy the entire engine? Did the cold side turbine come apart ans send stuff through the engine? If it just bent the fins on the turbo, I don't see how it killed the engine? Before I completely started over, I would pull the turbo, maybe pull the injectors and glow plugs, and blow shop air into the ports to blow everything out, and at least run it N/A and see if there is any other damage done... Just an opinion.....

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

I am not trying to stir the pot, and asking a serious question....

A rag got sucked into the turbo.. I understand that can damage or destroy the turbo. But, how does this destroy the entire engine? Did the cold side turbine come apart ans send stuff through the engine? If it just bent the fins on the turbo, I don't see how it killed the engine? Before I completely started over, I would pull the turbo, maybe pull the injectors and glow plugs, and blow shop air into the ports to blow everything out, and at least run it N/A and see if there is any other damage done... Just an opinion.....

I'm also curious. Never heard of that torching an engine, just the turbo(which would be a much simpler fix!)

 

[Big Bart]

If fins broke off the turbo, perhaps those could have caused issues. But if the fins just bent, then likely any piece of rag big enough to hurt the engine would not have gotten past the intake port or the intake valves.

Maybe you pull the intake off and see what you find.(Turbo fins, rag, rag pieces, maybe nothing, etc.) If there are shreds of rag it would still have to be big and found a way past the valve to cause an issue. (It's soft so a smaller piece should just squish between the piston and head or piston and valve.)

Sorry to hear that.

 

[hacked89]

Thanks guys. I can see why you are thinking what you are saying. And you know I wouldn’t torch a motor if it all could combust fuel since I’ll experiment with anything to see what happens.
It got sucked into the intake manifold, the turbo piping wasn’t hooked up to the intake.

Here’s why I said it was ruined when it happened:
It sucked into the intake manifold, engine came to a halt, locked up, couldn’t be turned over with a breaker bar.

My assumption pre-tear down, was that I was going to have at least some type of piston damage or a bent rod. Since this was an N/A motor that a T04Z would be pushing 36+ psi through it wouldn’t make sense to continue with it and fix the bottom end since I am planning motor #2/3 with PSD rods. My pump is 145cc.

I tore it down tonight. So far two bent pushrods. I’m measuring now the piston protrusion to the head deck. A good cylinder is measuring appropriately. The cylinder that locked up with the rag is measuring .012 lopsided.

I can turn it over now by hand and nothing is seized in the bottom end. I drained the oil and there was no rag in it which is good. No metal parts either.

This is my experimental ambo engine version 1 though and it’s a fighter. You are suppose to bore these Max .030 over and this is .040 over.

Im going to measure the protrusion on other cylinders, then put it back together NA and see if I can get good compression on that cylinder. If I can I will try to fire it up. If I can get it running good I’ll finish the truck build with it while putting together engine V2.

 

[subway]

I am sorry to hear about the motor, sounds like you have a solid plan to move forward now.

live and learn, I try not to get my blood pressure up about things anymore, just figure out what to do for the next step and not to shoot myself in the foot again

 

[Selahdoor]

Let's not forget the most important piece to bolt right in..

You must be registered for see images attach

Then just re run the rear line.
I also picked up a power bleeder. It's great.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

What is that part called?

Have a link???