1989 F-250 7.3 Project

hacked89

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Last couple days I was waiting on my Aviation #3 to show up.
It came today and I'm glad I waited.

Procedure is to coat the front plate with a thin film, the water pump itself, gasket to waterpump, 4 bolts and go.

Specs on waterpump and torque below.
I'll finish up the rest this weekend, gonna be a 16 hour day tomorow at work.

The thin brown is the aviation permatex #3.
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IDIBRONCO

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The next time you get around to working on this engine, I'd recommend to start the fan onto the water pump. Sin it on for three or four threads. Sometimes it's hard to get them to start on new threads and next to impossible in the truck with the radiator installed and the fan shroud in your way.
 

hacked89

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The next time you get around to working on this engine, I'd recommend to start the fan onto the water pump. Sin it on for three or four threads. Sometimes it's hard to get them to start on new threads and next to impossible in the truck with the radiator installed and the fan shroud in your way.
Good to keep in mind, thanks. I noticed that when taking it off that's a tight working around all that. If you don't pull the front clip. With the front clip off all the accessories will go back on before the radiator and such in reverse order from when I took the truck apart.

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IDIBRONCO

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Sometimes the fan is very difficult to get started onto new threads. If you just put it on a few threads, it will start easy enough when you're doing this for real. It's easiest when the engine's out on a stand. Then you can put the black plastic protector back on the threads if you want to.
 

hacked89

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I'm waiting on engine parts, saw the shipping label was generated last night. Hopefully by this weekend.

Since last post.
Waterpump/inlet/outlet/tstat etc done, ARP studs done, heads back on, rocket assemblies, valve covers.
All of that's straight forward. You just put the harmonic balance mark at 20 degrees/11:00oclock after the heads are on and torque everything down.

Those valve covers are custom with - 12AN fittings for a CDR delete and 2-1 catch can.
They were originally made for the CDD shop truck but never went on before the motor let go. Now they are on the ambo motor.
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hacked89

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If you're wondering why the updates stalled there..
The new intake didnt fit. Been waiting on the new new intake.

Some fuel pics:
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hacked89

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Got one day to work on the truck this week.

Pedal box refreshed with new bushings and accessories, re'pinned the brake pedal for hydroboost.
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She's got her third pedal.
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Installed the hydroboost unit and all that comes with doing that. All steel brake lines are being replaced. Ran new brake lines for all the front and to the rear.
Waiting on a hose for the rear junction on the axle which will get here this week.
Will do the rear next week.
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hacked89

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@hacked89 did you bend your own brake lines or buy them pre bent?
Yes.. Haha
I bought a classic tube prebent kit and then bent and made adjustments as needed.

I have a Dana 60 front swap, and a F-superduty rabs bypass just as some examples of when I say the truck is put together from all different trucks.
I bought an F350 pre bent kit and everything came out very nice and well after all my bending. Off the top of my head, nothing bolted in or fit properly, everything was minimal to moderate, except right front. Right front I did like 80% of the bends. Here's a perspective from my rabs bypass, I'm not an expert brake bender by any means.
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hacked89

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With the brakes complete moved on to steering.

Swapped in the column from the manual truck and took the dash out to put a new speedo cable. Not using cruise on the truck so I moved the pieces around so it's all manual now and doesnt have the connector switch.

The tilt on the wheel won't lock and just flops around, I'll take it apart this week to figure out.
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Next I swapped the factory steering box for a rebuilt red head unit and did the Borgeson steering shaft conversion.
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