Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by Ky85, Jul 7, 2020.
I did not mean to imply using the engine to mesh the gears.
I understand your implication, I suppose my reservations come from being alone trying to roll a 6k truck in N and shift the transfer case in synchronicity.
It's also early and I'm only on coffee cup #1. I'm firing on about 2 cylinders. Perhaps I am misunderstanding the series of events as you describe.
What he is getting at is the same if your trans wont go into reverse while sitting. Just move forward a nudge and try again. I have had to do the same with getting to 4L
Thank you to both of you!
Makes sense, I needed a lil more 'splaining.
If the transmission is in neutral and you roll the truck a little it will cause the transfer case gears to move without a load on them. This will allow you to shift into or out of 4 X 4. It will grind a little but will not hurt anything. I have been running four wheel drive vehicles since 1972 and never messed up a transfer case.
Only time I have ever actually seen for myself, a transfer case messed up, was on a chevy.
Friend of mine was out with his cousin. He gets out to unlock the hubs... Cousin gets out to do the other side.
He left the transfer case engaged.
Transfer case pretty much 'splodes' internally.
Cousin only spun the hub halfway, and left it floating in between.
This will not kill a Ford.
On my 89... Passenger hub broke. Wouldn't lock into either position.
But I didn't find out until I had driven if for weeks, In and out of 4wd.
Felt like it was locking in and out. But it wasn't.
Didn't hurt a thing.
Replaced the hubs, and it was just fine.
My last car was a Mazda 3000/Ford Stranger so forgive my hesitation!
Oil burners got the knowledge, ty ty
New door seals about 2 months ago..they are still sticking out a lot. Seems that its rubbing on the engine side near the hinge. I thought that they would settle by now. Has anyone had trouble with this too?
I've played with the post that the door catches on and can get it slightly closer. I'll take them all off and do it again maybe some adhesive to seat that stripping down reel good.
Yea I bent the metal lip when I installed mine until it closed smoothly. I also tested a bunch to find where the actual spot was that needed to be bent instead of bending randomly everywhere
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I owe you a beer for that..genius.
You’re also missing the bushing on your striker pin, that will help too.
Agree with Wes, I replaced my bushings few months back. Big difference. Little hard to open sometimes but stays shut good
Got those on. Bent the metal in from cab.
still sticking out..I ordered new pins for the hinges..maybe the old owner brought the doors in closer as the seals worn out..
Not confident with hinge play but if that's what it takes. I've sunk my teeth in now!
Messing with that striker bolt placement has had some success. Passenger door is now flush..and really hard to open from outside. Going to leave it shut for a while and try to get it 'green broke' at least.
Thinking I shoulda done same on driver side before I went messing with door alignment. Live n learn..
On to the rusty hood, prime it up and hit it with a navy base coat. And try to seal up the windshield leak. One treatment of flowing silicone wasn't enough, gonna try to hit that upper windshield trim real good.
Winter is coming and that box gotta be tight tight tight.
Here's a action shot of some concrete mix I got the other day. 25 bucks for all that!
Hood done been un rusted
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