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1985 6.9 Project

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by Ky85, Jul 7, 2020.

  1. Ky85

    Ky85 Full Access Member

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    Hi Burners,

    Hope everyone is doing good with the challenges life presents. I've been back at work after furlough, and busy taking care of my wife since she found out shes pregnant. Well this weekend I got to give some more love to my Ford and did fuel filters. Can't wait to get the body bushings and fuel selector valve installed too.

    Back to the filter, My rig has 2, one after the iP and another up by driver firewall. I got em both on and sounds like I got air in the lines, I do know to air bleed the ip filter, and am wondering about the twist spout on the driver firewall filter.

    Is that spout for air purge too?
    Attached Is a photo of the old filter. New ones are NAPA gold.

    Hope you guys in fire zones are doing ok, it's pretty gnarly up in Humboldt

    Screenshot_20200912-074430_DuckDuckGo.jpg

    20200908_090250.jpg
     
  2. hacked89

    hacked89 Full Access Member

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    Hey Ky sounds like you have been busy.
    I'll tell you how the Baldwin filters work and should be positioned and then you can just make sure your Napa setup immitates it.

    The Bf1212 is a suction side of the fuel pump/lift pump filter. The little knob you asked about is to drain the water seperator.

    If you have another filter in the factory location or let's say even on a seperate filter head after the pump like the bf7633, that's a pressure side filter. I'm assuming you meant the second filter is pressure side of the lift pump not injection pump.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
     
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  3. Ky85

    Ky85 Full Access Member

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    Yes, lift pump, ty!

    Ok water drain, that is good to know.

    Sounds like I need to try the air purge a little more, its having some trouble starting.
     
  4. hacked89

    hacked89 Full Access Member

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    First crack open the water seperator on your suction side and turn over briefly until fuel shoots out. Then if you have the factory filter head post lift pump with the Schrader valve you need to turn the motor over and depress that until the air is out.
    Then if it still doesn't run and there's airlock between the ip and injectors you need to turn over and crack open the injector lines one by one till the airs out.

    It's gonna get a bit messy and you'll need a helper if you don't have a remote trigger for the starter. Also I personally don't crank more than 15 seconds and a cool down in between.

    By trouble if you mean it hasn't ran at all since the work then do above. If it has ran but is hard start and the exhaust manifolds are hot do not do the above cause it can spray on the hot manifolds. And we would have to talk about why it's hard start.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
     
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  5. Ky85

    Ky85 Full Access Member

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    Here's a video, in this video I was experimenting to see if it was the glow plug harness since I have this issue in the morning and its cold.

    You can hear it struggle to start. Which happens on the first start of the day,or if it sits a few hours. if I make a stop and then start it up again it fires up cherry.
     
  6. Cainon

    Cainon Full Access Member

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    Sounds like glow plugs are not getting hot enough. If you let it sit over night then plug the heater in for about 10-20 min will it start right up? If so sounds like the problem. Change the controller same time. You run a risk of blowing new plugs in no time. 2 sets of plugs in weeks time is how I learned my lesson. Easier way of getting air out is to screwdriver the solenoid (to turn engine over) and push in the nipple on the bleeder on the side of where the fuel filter mounts.
     
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  7. Ky85

    Ky85 Full Access Member

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    Update 9 17

    Been purging air out the bleeder valve with success, truck starts up like it used to.

    Planning to inspect/replace glow plug system components as well for S&G. It's only gonna get colder and harder to warm up!
     
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