If you're working on a budget you could always build the engine with studs and all the goodies and install the engine na and then buy and install the turbo at a later point
R&D stuff
- Thread starter Guffey6
- Start date
pelky350
Full Access Member
I'm running r and d stage 1's and 90cc pump with factory turbo with 60-1 Wheel in it. This Is a pretty good set up so far. Yes you can run a turbo pump on a n/a. It will smoke a lot when on it but if your planning on turbo anyway ehh spend the money twice? Keep egts in check you should be safe. Justin can answer any questions you have about his products specifics but I'm impressed so far! He helped me decide what pump I should run and answered all my questions before ordering
Guffey6
Full Access Member
Ok guys here's what I think I'm going to do. Rebuild the engine with head studs. Make sure she's good and tight and within all specs, replace anything that is remotely worn. Buy the RD2-110 pump. And look more in depth into turbos, Probably stock for now.
As for the puff limiter, I love the idea of less smoke with the same amount of power.
As far as swapping out my na IP for a turbo RD2 pump before I get the turbo. Could I just turn "down" the set screw a flat or two? To limit fuel flow.
As for the puff limiter, I love the idea of less smoke with the same amount of power.
As far as swapping out my na IP for a turbo RD2 pump before I get the turbo. Could I just turn "down" the set screw a flat or two? To limit fuel flow.
You could turn it down but I would check with the pump builder first.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
Pretty sure that the RD2-110 has a fuel screw still; I'm not sure the RD4-# models do, as that's a 4-plunger head.
You'll be turning it down a lot more than a flat or two, though... probably more like 10 flats.
That being said, I'd just get the smoke puff limiter and install that with the pump.
You won't have a turbo to hook it up to, so it will stay in the "no boost" mode all the time; you can then just adjust it until you get a good setting.
your foot does the same thing. along with paying attention to the pyro.
pelky350
Full Access Member
if you go with a 110 pump I'd consider a larger than stock turbo, with my 90cc and upgraded factory turbo I think it's at it's limit for burning any more fuel due to back pressure from the smaller exhaust wheel from what I've read. But Justin would know more than I do I'd ask when you call him about that. He also has a stage 1 drop in for factory turbo that on the site says it outflows a factory turbo and still has a wastegate for adjustable boost pressures. That being said I'd sure like to dyno my truck one day cause I feel I have a reasonable amount of power now, I drove a bone stock factory truck a few weeks ago and it was way different powerwise. Smoke puff limiter would be recommended as well if you go with even a 90cc I don't have one and can control I think with my foot pretty well but it would be nice to floor it and let the pump take care of it for me I can cloud a whole off ramp if I don't let the turbo catch up these pumps throw a Lot of fuel in the motor lol
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
You're not gonna want to turn down the 110 and run it NA... I doubt you could turn it down enough. I'd run the pump that's on it currently to break it in... Swap the pump when you add the charger. Stock sized charger ain't gonna cut it either... At minimum, I'd get his 093 drop in or just get his full stage 1 kit. Call him up. He's a good guy to talk to and he'll be straight with you on what you'd need air wise to support the pump.
He just finished his compound build and is shooting for 600/1200. Currently trying to squeeze 220+cc out of the pump he's building for it. It's going to be nasty. Join the Facebook IDI page "Ford IDI Diesel Owners 1983-1994". He's on there a good bit with pics of his builds and upcoming parts
He just finished his compound build and is shooting for 600/1200. Currently trying to squeeze 220+cc out of the pump he's building for it. It's going to be nasty. Join the Facebook IDI page "Ford IDI Diesel Owners 1983-1994". He's on there a good bit with pics of his builds and upcoming parts
Macrobb
Full Access Member
I both agree and disagree with you.
In /theory/, yes, your foot does the same thing. No worries, just keep your foot out of it and you'll be fine!
In reality, it's a pain in the behind to do this with a larger-than-stock IP, due to the amount of fuel available compared to what's needed off idle.
Yes, you can... But you don't want to be doing this for very long; it's a pain, and I pretty much guarantee you that you'll be puffing clouds of smoke despite your best efforts.
EGTs wise, well, yeah, you can definitely keep them in check just with your foot, simply because it takes so long to heat everything up that you have time to react.
The car behind you won't be too happy, though...
personally I would wait on an IP until I get the turbo.
but what I WOULD NOT DO was take a bran new IP that's under warranty and **** with the fuel settings voiding any warranty
but what I WOULD NOT DO was take a bran new IP that's under warranty and **** with the fuel settings voiding any warranty
Guffey6
Full Access Member
I was price shopping today and for a rd2-110 pump it's $1150
Stage 1 injectors $380
Factory drop in turbo $1450
Turbo intake kit $1000 (there has to be a cheaper option, any advice?)
Full engine gasket set $150+
ARP head studs $320
And whatever else I would need.
Also replace rings, worn valves, oil pump, oil cooler( I've read where you can rebuild these, but haven't really dug into it.
Whenever I start this journey I will create a new post detailing my build, because I know I will have many questions.
The trick is getting my wife on board with these prices :/
However I will start by doing what Thewespaul says and do a rebuild to check everything out and head studs before I go spending lots of cash.$$
Stage 1 injectors $380
Factory drop in turbo $1450
Turbo intake kit $1000 (there has to be a cheaper option, any advice?)
Full engine gasket set $150+
ARP head studs $320
And whatever else I would need.
Also replace rings, worn valves, oil pump, oil cooler( I've read where you can rebuild these, but haven't really dug into it.
Whenever I start this journey I will create a new post detailing my build, because I know I will have many questions.
The trick is getting my wife on board with these prices :/
However I will start by doing what Thewespaul says and do a rebuild to check everything out and head studs before I go spending lots of cash.$$
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
The oil cooler rebuild is replacing the o-rings and it's not very hard to do when the engine's out. I'd think about holding off on the oil pump. It's been said on here many times that the stock pump is better than the aftermarket ones. If you don't have any oil pressure problems now, you may want to leave the pump alone.
reset2
Full Access Member
Sure did pull well. WV mountains not a problem for that Ford.
tjsea
Full Access Member
Was that factory drop in turbo including the turbo mounting components? Also if you go with any of the standard turbo kits like ats, banks, hypermax, or factory turbo you won't need to change the intake manifold. Thats only if you upgrade to a much larger turbo. In fact I think there is a turbo that will bolt on a factory turbo pedestal and work with hardly any modification.
that's 2450 for a turbo set up.
I have just over a grand into this.
turbos, headers, intake, plumbing, AND powersteering.
I have just over a grand into this.
turbos, headers, intake, plumbing, AND powersteering.
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