R&D stuff

Guffey6

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alright, a few questions about r&d parts. I have a 88 f250 idi non turbo. I have a parts truck from a 91 with a good motor, as of right now it's on the stand and I'm gathering supplies for a rebuild.

Question is:

1. The r&d injectors, do they come in a set of 8 or is the $275 the price for 1?

2. The injection pump. Mine is getting kind of old and I'm afraid that it will go any day now. Can I buy the one for a turbo truck but use it for my non- turbo for the time being?

3. Turbo. Which turbo would best for my needs, cost effective for the most power?

My plan is to have this rebuilt motor sitting there waiting for when my current trucks blows. I'll just swap the pump to the rebuild one. I'm looking at a $3500-$4000 budget over a years time. Thanks.
 

IDIoit

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IP's are now sold by volume spec. you can run a higher flow IP on your NA, but you will smoke a lot.
275 is the price for all 8.
I would find a 093 ATS. which is the factory turbo for the 93-94
 

chillman88

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1. My understanding is the injectors are a set of 8 for that price.

2. I "believe" you can use a turbo pump if you turn the fuel screw down but wait to hear for sure.

3. I was interested in what R&D has for a turbo kit until I heard what Mel at Conestoga Diesel had. I have to call and get details but it sounded like a great turbo. Water cooled ball bearing Garrett.

Many on here will turn you away from R&D. I'll leave the reasons alone. I would give him a call and talk to him, I know there are guys that really like him. I personally have no issues with him but have never dealt with him either.

I have never ever heard anything bad about Mel at Conestoga Diesel. Give him a call and see what he has to offer as well before you go spending your hard earned money!
 

Guffey6

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I do have the moose boost turbo with Hyper-max base, misters, junior pump and IC. I would really love to dyno it. not sure but I think I had a combined weight of 13,500 lbs going to the rally and it pulled good.

my witnesses...
@tjsea
@F350camper
@reset2


Is $3500-$4000 realistic? With pump, turbo, inter cooler, injectors, and a basic rebuild kit (including oil pump)?
 

no mufflers

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well, this is what I did..

turbo-$1,600
studs-$600
turbo mounting parts-$300 ish, not sure.
I had the IC
what ever the price for IP and injectors.
 

tjsea

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I thought @no mufflers truck ran very well. As soon as he dropped out of overdrive there wasn't any hills we couldn't gain speed on going across the ugly mountains of I-68. That being said Mel's or Justin's turbo kits will be out of your budget range at the moment. If I was you id look for something used. Any of the big 3 turbo kits work well eventhough I'm partial to Hypermax since they have always been great on the tech side eventhough I I bought mine used. That being said a waste gated turbo like an 093 or banks sidewinder will probably spool quicker. If I was you I'd do a compression test on the engine you are going to use first and foremost. Honestly if it doesn't need rebuilt I would probably just regasket it and run it. You can get alot of money into fully rebuilding an engine especially if it ends up needing bored.
 

Guffey6

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I love these trucks but hauling a gooseneck, wheather it be cows or hay, up a steep grade( or any grade for that matter) there's hardly any power to be had.

I had a built 6.4 I bought new in 2010 and it had all the power you could ask for, but I lost #2 cylinder and that quickly turned into $14,000 for a new engine. So I cut my losses and went with this truck. I know that I will never have that kind of horsepower and torque with this truck, but I need as much power as I can have. Safely.
 

Guffey6

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I thought @no mufflers truck ran very well. As soon as he dropped out of overdrive there wasn't any hills we couldn't gain speed on going across the ugly mountains of I-68. That being said Mel's or Justin's turbo kits will be out of your budget range at the moment. If I was you id look for something used. Any of the big 3 turbo kits work well eventhough I'm partial to Hypermax since they have always been great on the tech side eventhough I I bought mine used. That being said a waste gated turbo like an 093 or banks sidewinder will probably spool quicker. If I was you I'd do a compression test on the engine you are going to use first and foremost. Honestly if it doesn't need rebuilt I would probably just regasket it and run it. You can get alot of money into fully rebuilding an engine especially if it ends up needing bored.

My plan is to just do rings, hone, and gasket set. But I will know more when I tear her down. And I will do a compression test for sure.
 

tjsea

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I know I was hoping to just do a rering and go on mine, but it ended up needing bored. Then again I can be a little pickier than most, haha! If it needs bored and new pistons trust me it can get expensive fast.
 

Guffey6

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I know I was hoping to just do a rering and go on mine, but it ended up needing bored. Then again I can be a little pickier than most, haha! If it needs bored and new pistons trust me it can get expensive fast.

Yeah I'm not sure on the boring fee, but a complete rebuild kit is around $11-1200. So I can definitely see how it can add up fast.

I just want a truck I can start up and drive to California if I wanted to, and not have to worry.
 

Macrobb

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Getting the engine build out of the way, I've found a winning combination is a ATS/Ford factory turbo(or the banks, same real HP limit), a RD2-110 IP, and a Hypermax Smoke Puff Limiter.

Put that together and you will get 250 HP at the wheels, something in the mid 300s at the crank. About double the NA HP of an IDI in /good/ condition, near triple a /worn/ IDI.

And I'm currently running that build without headstuds for the past 7 months without issues. I would definitely recommend them, though.

You can also get a decent amount more out of that IP if you go with a bigger than stock turbo, but you *must* have headstuds at that point.

The Hypermax Smoke Puff Limiter is another key to this setup - It's a boost-controlled-fuel-regulator. It keeps you from choking the motor down with the (massive quantity) of fuel available off idle if you give it just a hair too much throttle, and then opens up the fuel available as soon as you get boost.

I find that it means I can drive around with pretty much no smoke at all(unlike those Cummins guys who floor it and leave a trail of smoke behind them), and accelerate nice and quickly still.

It's also nice because smoke = high EGTs; keep the smoke down and you won't have nearly the problems with EGTs, while making the same real HP.



edit:
Another thing to watch: If you get your block decked or your heads skimmed or re-valved, you need to measure and check the "valve recession" spec. This is how far the valve seats into the head, below the deck.

If this number is /below/ stock spec, your valves will whack into the pistons and slowly destroy the engine. It won't break a valve, because the valves are square to the bore - you'll just have nice valve-shaped indentations in the piston and you won't know it until you hear a tick from the massively worn out valve guide at this point...
Ask me how I know this... <_<
 
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