If you're working on a budget you could always build the engine with studs and all the goodies and install the engine na and then buy and install the turbo at a later point
Pretty sure that the RD2-110 has a fuel screw still; I'm not sure the RD4-# models do, as that's a 4-plunger head.As far as swapping out my na IP for a turbo RD2 pump before I get the turbo. Could I just turn "down" the set screw a flat or two? To limit fuel flow.
To limit fuel flow.
I both agree and disagree with you.your foot does the same thing. along with paying attention to the pyro.
I do have the moose boost turbo with Hyper-max base, misters, junior pump and IC. I would really love to dyno it. not sure but I think I had a combined weight of 13,500 lbs going to the rally and it pulled good.
my witnesses...
@tjsea
@F350camper
@reset2
Was that factory drop in turbo including the turbo mounting components? Also if you go with any of the standard turbo kits like ats, banks, hypermax, or factory turbo you won't need to change the intake manifold. Thats only if you upgrade to a much larger turbo. In fact I think there is a turbo that will bolt on a factory turbo pedestal and work with hardly any modification.I was price shopping today and for a rd2-110 pump it's $1150
Stage 1 injectors $380
Factory drop in turbo $1450
Turbo intake kit $1000 (there has to be a cheaper option, any advice?)
Full engine gasket set $150+
ARP head studs $320
And whatever else I would need.
Also replace rings, worn valves, oil pump, oil cooler( I've read where you can rebuild these, but haven't really dug into it.
Whenever I start this journey I will create a new post detailing my build, because I know I will have many questions.
The trick is getting my wife on board with these prices :/
However I will start by doing what Thewespaul says and do a rebuild to check everything out and head studs before I go spending lots of cash.$$