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[LCAM-01XA]

Gavin gdhillion has an F250 ZF 4x ok so he measures his rear ds weld to weld 45 1/2" *****...my F350 rear ds is 47 1/2" weld to weld...

Now *** my shaft will bottom out and take out the tcase. SUMOFAGUN...OK

Maybe, maybe not. Are the transfer cases identical? Both have slip-yoke tails? I can't keep track of what you have, entirely way too many spare parts

Btw how does my 37"-38" front ride height (from top of wheel well arch to ground) compare to your trucks, am I at White Rhino or Brown Bruin height?

The odd fuel tank combination you got there has been seen before, IIRC someone on here had it in a '92 or '93 F250 4x4. Does the front tank have a steel shield under it? As for fuel capacity, what's the distance between the transfer case and the nose of the fuel tank? If it's around 7" or so then you got the large front tank, 19 gallons IIRC. The smaller is 16 gallons, and it's very short, gives you enough space behind the transfer case for another transfer case Meaning on a regular-cab frame truck you'll probably be switching to that size when you go to install the doubler...

 

[riotwarrior]

Maybe, maybe not. Are the transfer cases identical? Both have slip-yoke tails? I can't keep track of what you have, entirely way too many spare parts

Are you seriously questioning that I did not check Tcase? buwa ha ha ha ha...both 1356 just the F350 has PTO provision is only difference.

Well I'm not really sure how you expect me to keep track of it all...I thought that was your job???

Let me see...for tcases..thus far

1 divorced 205
2 married 205's
1 fixed yoke 1345 84 F250
1 fixed yoke 1356 Bronco
2 slip yoke PTO 1356 F350 cases
1 slip yoke non PTO 1356 in new to me truck

I won't count the one in the ranger though

Btw how does my 37"-38" front ride height (from top of wheel well arch to ground) compare to your trucks, am I at White Rhino or Brown Bruin height?

Well I'll check the white rhino that's the F350 and let you know but you neglected to mention tyre size which will have cause/effect on that dimension

The odd fuel tank combination you got there has been seen before, IIRC someone on here had it in a '92 or '93 F250 4x4. Does the front tank have a steel shield under it? As for fuel capacity, what's the distance between the transfer case and the nose of the fuel tank? If it's around 7" or so then you got the large front tank, 19 gallons IIRC. The smaller is 16 gallons, and it's very short, gives you enough space behind the transfer case for another transfer case Meaning on a regular-cab frame truck you'll probably be switching to that size when you go to install the doubler...

Ya I'll measure that up but something tells me it's a smaller capacity tank than I currently have in the white truck, however for a doubler that could just be HOT ticket for certain!!!

At this time it may be that Rose forces me to fold, and thus just swap engines as she is really wanting the second vehicle and NOW..Thus this whole Brown Bruin build could be slightly side tracked to a quick n dirty...well not dirty I"ll steam clean...engine swap over to white rhino F350 DOH!

***** ***** *****...that was not what we talked about but...right now I cannot afford to have any friction here I have to deffer to her wishes...

That's ok I'll just strip the rest of truck of needed/wanted items like complete functioning AC and such. I'll just prep frame and SC then for big swap later on.

PMO but I just gotta have a happy wife!

Al

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Oh yeah, wifey can sure put the kibosh on projects, and superwifey just means superkibosh

Jokes aside, idk why the two trucks would have different length of shafts, unless the shorter one runs 1350 u-joints (as opposed to 1330s for the longer one?) and they require yokes with longer ears which means shorter tube to keep overall center-to-center distance the same... Just a wild guess tho, and I doubt that would account for whole 2" difference, 1" I could see but 2" seems a bit excessive. Heck if I know, anyways you know how to measure the thing whenever trans goes in, so as long as it's on the long side you can have it redone on the cheap.

My tires are 235/85-16s, from center of hub to ground is 15". Actually now that I think about it, distance from center of hub up to top of wheel arch will be more accurate measurement, cause it's only a function of the suspension and tires can be whatever size and it won't matter at all.

As for the tank size, now imagine an aux box stuffed in front of the doubler - gonna be a tight fit alright, and in my case the fuel filter will have to move yet again... But I'll take 16 gallon tank over no tank at all any day, to me having a single-tank diesel vehicle is just asking for trouble.

 

[riotwarrior]

ground to centerline of front fender
F250 37 1/2" 265 75 16
F350 39" 255 85 16

Thems what I gots hope it helps...

 

[Hiball]

Next I suppose is front clip hmm...I'll have to document that one closely!

Al

Looking forward to that..

 

[ArcticDingo]

The sandblaster tip for a pressure washer works better then the gravity feed units and uses less amount of bead stock. Its good for small jobs. And something you would want to do outside.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

ground to centerline of front fender
F250 37 1/2" 265 75 16
F350 39" 255 85 16

Right, I thought you said 39" for the White Rhino last time around too, just couldn't find the PM. But yes, I'm right at your F250 height, thanks for confirming it.

 

[riotwarrior]

Right, I thought you said 39" for the White Rhino last time around too, just couldn't find the PM. But yes, I'm right at your F250 height, thanks for confirming it.

Front end is just a bit more sagged right now springs getting well um not so gooder!

OH and anyone who can use a tape measure I need two measurements from an

F250 ZF 4x4

Rear drive shaft length WELD to WELD

Front drive shaft length centre of U joint to centre of U when the ujoints are like a + I need the horizontal plane measurements of joint to joint please please please.

Anyone??????

 

[LCAM-01XA]

You're needing the measurements from a 1-piece driveshaft that uses a transfer case with a slip yoke, is that correct? As opposed to the shafts with a built-in slide-joint that are used on fixed-yoke transfer cases. I'm running fixed yoke, so any numbers I can come up with will be useless to you. But I do have an idea - since you have that fixed-yoke '84 BW1345 case, and you also have the matching slide-joint '84 rear shaft, why not just replace the slip-yoke case and its questionable shaft with those '84 parts as a set? Added benefit would be that the 1345 has no magnesium case, and its chain is supposedly 1/2" wider, plus you saw what my 1356 looked like inside it and there seem to be less reports of such failures happening with 1345 cases... Your thoughts?

Btw, since you have transfer cases galore laying around, is a married fixed-yoke 205 as long as a fixed-yoke 1345 or 1356? Measured from front flange (where it mates to the transmission adapter housing) to the center of the rear shaft U-joint...

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

Oh on a side note I took apart a DMF today to have a gander and see how difficult a rebuild may be...looks deceptively simple, enough so that If I was to combine all the DMF here I may be able to make a really nice one!

Just wondering: instead of pulling all of your DMFs apart to build one, have you considered the Lucky Mod?

 

[riotwarrior]

Just wondering: instead of pulling all of your DMFs apart to build one, have you considered the Lucky Mod?

Yes, yes I have, and I'd rather have a DMF with proper dampening. I just tore into one with visibly broken springs and it was NFG to say the least.

I pulled the other one and aside from being a bit loose it's in good shape and a Valeo flywheel. I may get it resurfaced so if anyone has previous exp or knowledge on them let me know!

Now that I've DONE the damn bins, I can spend a bit of time working on these damn trucks. NOW that I've chosen to flip transmissions, it's time to also take some serious measurements to determine if that SC can be place onto a RC frame once and for all. I'm thinking careful measurements of various body mounts and so forth will facilitate the installation of a supercab.

Well tomorrow will be a tell all day for me for certain. Time to inpsect the front TTB BJ's and a little deeper inspection of said front suspension and parts.

Nuff for now till done with the measurements...

Al

 

[riotwarrior]

Got front end up today, and looked it over, there is some work for certain, nails for cotter pins on TRE's

U joints in the diff need work but I suspect for what I'll do they'll be fine.

BJ's look satisfactory and I greased them and the steering linkage as well. Everything took grease and seems good.

I'll get some cotter pins if I can't find my kit

Thus it's time to start removing the E4OD and getting ready for the ZF, that means pull column and pedal assembly as well.

I'll dig up a ZF tunnel as well...must have one or two around here

Now is there any electrical issues I'll have to contend with, with swapping out that Notomatic transmission for a ZF?

I'm almost thinking of backing it over to Brians and blasting it before I start the swapping so I can have it moderately clean

Oh took some pics of block too for shitzngigglze...will post soon.

Al

 

[riotwarrior]

Not bad day with the rain today, got whole front clip of white truck and rad and starter out too.

I'll be posting some pics soon..

Also got the one D60 KP I have sitting on a couple saw horses worked on. Took it to Vesper Transport and got them to gun out the KP and install new ones torqued to 600 lbs ft, cost me $40.00 well worth the investment IHMO!

Brought it home and then began to work on the carrier that I'd previously removed.

I installed the Spartan Locker..aka lunch box locker in that 60. That leaves two new inner seals and a thorough cleaning and then reassemble and prep for install into the F250!

Should be sweet locked front and rear, it's been a while since did anything on this..

K nuff for now SAR night and I got lots prep work to do!

Al

 

[bbjordan]

Now is there any electrical issues I'll have to contend with, with swapping out that Notomatic transmission for a ZF?


Al

You might have to jumper the Neutral Safety switch. Not sure about the Reverse lights either.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

You might have to jumper the Neutral Safety switch. Not sure about the Reverse lights either.

If the OBS harness is anything like the brick harness, then all he has to do is unplug the entire E4OD harness from the big square connector at the driver-side inner fender, and plug in a ZF5 harness in its place - the NSS jumper would then be built-in from the factory in the form of a short piece of wire looped between the two pins normally connected to the NSS part of the E4OD MLPS. Then inside the cab if he leaves the NSS jumper connector in place he can start the truck without clutching in, which considering the silly design of the stick-shift NSS may not be such a bad idea after all.