> > P R O J E C T < < Brown BRUIN build !!!

[riotwarrior]

That fan clutch heat spring sure would be easy to remove and modify to lock up earlier than the stock on does. Then you would have the MS Tech high proformance fan clutch that costs more than your first born or the left one... I just do not know how much to change it be it shorten it or lengthen it. I realize to lengthen it would be tuff but anything can be done. Actually I'm guessing you shorten it by heating it and rebending it so it closes the valve that causes lock up. Thats the split pin it connects to in the center. As heat warms up the spring it changes the valve by closing it by turning that split pin. Don't even know which way it turns...

Well Gary, I can just take an existing old clutch fan and use a heat gun and see if I can get it to move...and which way...Hmmm...this is intriguing...

DAMN you Gary for the seeds of projects...

 

[icanfixall]

Al I'm happy to keep you busy. Hel I'm busy in the garden all the time so why not spread some love. Idle hands makes... Well you know what. Its that guy on the fishing boats. I think they call him the Master Baiter for all the other guys on the boat....

 

[riotwarrior]

Figured time for update and PICS...

Got clip and hood off today, I now need to remove the AC comp and set it aside with the rest of the AC to attempt to keep it all sealed.

Once I have AC taken care of and safe that leaves 3 engine mount nuts, and 4 exhaust nuts to undo install a couple of chains or my lift assembly, drain oil and lift out the engine.

I'm going to pull off all accessory drives and a few other odds n sods, drop out the core plugs that look bad...add block heater and petcocks to drain block. Remove pan and reseal and maybe the valve covers too.

Paint it and reassemble and install it, after I toss in hydroboost and get a few other small details dealt with when engine is out.

Thats bout it..so heres a few updated pics

Clip removed finally ugh!

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Ha don't that look all that and then some!!!!

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There just is NOT enough access or a better way to work on these engines or remove them in my opinion. The bottom line more access to get wrenches on parts and hands in places you couldn't before. Also way more light too!

Cant wait to do the ZF swap and get this back on the road for me.

Thanks for looking

Al

 

[riotwarrior]

Subtle change of plans...going to roll out my engine hoist...lift engine if I have to with it and roll truck back...makes it work for me. I've got a forklift on a tractor I can move it around up to about 6 feet or so, however I require a loader to lift the engine out high enough as the forklift on the tractor will not do it.

If all goes to plan, tomorrow is the removal day...woo hoo...then I can get the block plugs out drain cooling system etc.

Just getting stoked now!

Woo hoo

 

[icanfixall]

Its like Christmas in November Al. I too like working on a big job of my own making. But hate doing any big job for the good wifey....

 

[riotwarrior]

Interesting day today,

A small group of a total of 7 SAR members made up 300 sand bags for sale at local service stations. It is a method of fund raising for us.

Quite interesting how the same group of people show up and do all the hard work all the time.

Then Rose and I came home, did lunch and I got going with the truck engine removal.

John Deere Brian as we call him as we know 4 different Brians came over with his loader to help me out. We had that engine out in a jiffy after moving some stuff around.

I then swept out the cooler and prepped to have the engine in the shop soon. Tomorrow we will steam clean off the grunge off the engine and get it all taken care of ready to install new core plugs etc.

So here is where it sits today,

First of course, we had to move some stuff around, so white rhino down by brown bruin

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This made accessing the engine much easier

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Ha, engine on a pallet for short term while prep for steam clean tomorrow if weather holds

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Ha, the block plugs with 1/4 square female hole was soooooo easy to remove. Now I can transfer over the petcocks from the N F G engine and have it ready for a flushing.

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top left oil gallery plug looks like could be weeping a tad...Hmmm...don't like that

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Liking this I am...

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Hmmm...maybe have to roll this ***** around for a steam cleaning too perhaps...damn no steering but I gots tractors..I can pull **** around all day with em.

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So now it's clean engine drain oil and coolant, get it on the engine stand, then deal with pan and oil cooler removal.

I'm on the fence on how far to tear down. If it's a reman I just don't know if I want to remove heads or not. If I do I can quickly pop valve springs and check guides really fast and also have a look at if heads cut or decks been cut. I'll also know if it's been bored n sleeved too. UGH ...decisions decsions...just another expense I don't want to incurr but at same time doing so really brings peace of mind...Hmmm..must get OK from Superwifey, then pull heads and KNOW KNOW KNOW it's going to last!

I'll be on this in next day or two wooooo hoo..Thank Brian for coming over it helped a whole lot!

Thanks for reading

Al

 

[Brad S.]

Being you got two trucks down, you gonna make one really awesome truck???
Like the pics as always, thanks man.

 

[riotwarrior]

Being you got two trucks down, you gonna make one really awesome truck???
Like the pics as always, thanks man.

Bronco...D O W N
White Rhino ....D O W N
Crippled Hippo....Getting revamped...
Brown Bruin.....Getting revamped...

Yes I'm going to try to make one awesome truck, either by shortening the SC frame maybe...or by throwing the SC on the reg cab frame with a short deck.

I"ve got my D60 started being rebuilt as well..got all parts needed..will go in a truck

Ya bottom line is how far am I tearing this down? I'm damn near convinced to pop off heads and be done! Wife says not till after Christmas, I can live with that! Hmmm...Tear the rest down then in mean time.

Thanks btw

 

[stuborn nut]

with the pan off there should be a lot visible sleeved or not and so on. would give you something to think on for a bit.

 

[Can30Diesel]

Hey Al, are you still planning on an ext cab conversion on a reg cab frame? If so I am real interested in how it goes because I want to do that with my truck!

 

[riotwarrior]

Hey Al, are you still planning on an ext cab conversion on a reg cab frame? If so I am real interested in how it goes because I want to do that with my truck!

Thinking about this quite seriously yes, I just need a fricken mig right now and I could be welding up the Brown bruin as I had wanted to do. NOW would be the ideal time to make this swap happen. No engine, or trans...perfect time actually.

Oh well will have to wait and see.

Hmm...I know of a cheap lil mig..hmm...flux core mig better n no mig for sheet metal I suppose!

 

[riotwarrior]

UPDATE TIME!!!

My friend John Deere Brian...I have three friends named Brian....so it's how I tell Super whom I mean...

Anyway Brian and I have been discussing this build in depth of late. Actually quite a bit, and have been taking measurements and comparing different body mounts between SC and RC and Bronco, as well as floorpans of RG and SC.

So far...So far the SC has a much flatter floor than the RC with minimal lift up at rear where frame kicks up. I wish I could just take some cross sections of them...Hmmm...wait, "LIGHT BULB" cardboard templates of both...Hmmm..I can do that!

Ok back on track, For all my measuring and comparisons, the bottom line, this looks like with 3" lift on front cab mounts below/in footwells and the rad support, and using an outboard frame mount from a Bronco frame, I can swap this cab on with minor sheet metal mods to SC floor.

Bronco/F 1,2,350 foot well body mounts

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See it's set at an angle along top edge near frame...opposite side same but mirrored

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Notice it drops down

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EARLY 80's Bronco/F 1,2,350 rad support mount

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3 bolt mounts...used in 87-97 style rad support as well

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This THIS is the key body mount...it's the one below rear edge of door on Bronco

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nice, can actually be made to sit just above frame if need be, hmm...this would be MY REAR cab mounts outboard of frame I think...These..ARE the KEY I believe, and look simple enough to fab if needed!

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This is the SC frame, it's got the LONGER flat section and then KICKS up at rear and the body mounts are on the X member as seen inboard of frame

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Drivers side of the underside of SC notice not a great deal of change in height of floor pan???

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Slightly different view

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Now I don't have a bare RC frame or a cab off a frame so I can only show as you see...here

This is Looking from rear forward on PASS side of RC to show the amount of changes in floorpan

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This is + - a wee bit...where the rear body mount section under the floor of the SC would sit...right over fuel sender/lines DOH!!!

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Clearly I cannot mount a X member here for the body to mount to and thus those Bronco mounts mounting outboard the frame will likely be the best. I cannot mount the rear of cab like the picture here shows! The stick on pass side of frame is about centre of the body mount be it inboard or outboard of frame as I plan to do

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NEXT

 

[riotwarrior]

NEXT...

Now by cutting this small bit of VERTICAL reinforcement of floor as circled in red...this is a RC cab shown but the SC has a similar bit off I should be able to use the Bronco frame mounts of choice and do this cab swap.

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I've got some subtle measurements to take care of and I may need to clearance the SC floor pan a wee bit with a BFH-Tappometer or subtle cut/weld however I don't think this will be a major problem as long as I use 3" lift blocks on foot well cab mounts and rad support cab mounts, then outboard frame mounts with stock rubber bushings...

I'll know more soon as I'm going to test this theory with a cab removal since I am so close anyway to do it...four bolts 1 ebrake cable and that's it silver/red crippled hippo cab comes off, and brown bruin cab can be trial fit!

Thanks for reading/looking

Al

 

[Can30Diesel]

Watching this one closely!

 

[riotwarrior]

Not much of update, I located two WINCH type camper jacks, that I can customize to lift cab up/down onto frame for repeated test fits, got em for F R E E they need new cable and two new pulleys but they'll make this job really simple when I get that all sorted out for where the cab mounts go etc. It will make it nice to be able to lower it down slowly, hold in place then fab mounts etc.

Also called and managed to find a local coating place, they offer both powder coating and CERAMIC for exhaust manifolds and so forth. I'm stoked about it, and I'll be taking in some parts for quotes.

Two exh manifolds, my turbo and x over and pedestal for ceramic coating, then a few parts for powder coat however I'm usually OK with quality time and rattle cans and the OVEN...wife is not sold yet even after years of doing it...however I am and that's what matters.

Oh just an FYI

For those considering this type of CAB swap the frame kicks up from under cab to the rear section about 4 1/4" so there is some concern on my part that the 3" lift may not work, I'll know in a while!!!!