> > P R O J E C T < < Brown BRUIN build !!!

[riotwarrior]

If the OBS harness is anything like the brick harness, then all he has to do is unplug the entire E4OD harness from the big square connector at the driver-side inner fender, and plug in a ZF5 harness in its place - the NSS jumper would then be built-in from the factory in the form of a short piece of wire looped between the two pins normally connected to the NSS part of the E4OD MLPS. Then inside the cab if he leaves the NSS jumper connector in place he can start the truck without clutching in, which considering the silly design of the stick-shift NSS may not be such a bad idea after all.

Have no idea what mlps is but the ZF NSS will in no uncertain terms be installed. I've never previously had a NSS in a truck and the wifey's stang has one and so does her ranger...however neither of these do I drive if I can help it.

Not sure what BIG SQUARE connector you refer to on brick nose, there is ONLY a ROUND one on brick nose!

I"m thinking that there was significant changes from the Brick to OBS systems...however the brown bruin cab is a wiggle stick and NOT a NOTOMATIC, like the grey truck so perhaps a harness swap there will work for me

Thanks guys, helps me know *** to look for...now where is the E4OD ECU so I can remove that for potential future use?

 

[riotwarrior]

Lookin at the Pass side of block looks like NO block heater ***

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And here is the points of interest for removing a clip...besides usuall drain cooling and remove batteries

I removed the hood already and had previously disconnected many wires for the intake harness for GPs and the ALT so that left what I show here for clip removal..

Now starting with these bolts both sides!

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Then these ones inside fender between door and fender

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Then there are single bolt under fender rear edge as well

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Two bolts in the inner fenderwell

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Now that leaves the two rad support bolts

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Having decided to pull rad...lighten the clip..I drilled holes in the shroud and accessed the rad bolts

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Here is the main harness to be undone on drivers side (87-91 Diesel typical)

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and then these chassis harness plugs

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After ya get all that done recheck that no ground straps are connected and remove the hose to your washer reservoir and also the hood release cable, I didn't have to remove my cable cause I use a wire out the front of the grill with a T handle

That about sums up a clip removal and then just lift it up while simultaniously pulling outward on the fenders near the door so the clip comes up and over the tyres nicely and yer done!

This is my method and works for me. I wouldn't pull and engine any other way!

Al

 

[laserjock]

Thanks Al! That's awesome information. I'm not expert, but I'm pretty sure it gets cold in Canada so may want to think about a block heater.

I vote you pull that post out and make it a Tech 101.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Have no idea what mlps is but the ZF NSS will in no uncertain terms be installed. I've never previously had a NSS in a truck and the wifey's stang has one and so does her ranger...however neither of these do I drive if I can help it.

Not sure what BIG SQUARE connector you refer to on brick nose, there is ONLY a ROUND one on brick nose!

I"m thinking that there was significant changes from the Brick to OBS systems...however the brown bruin cab is a wiggle stick and NOT a NOTOMATIC, like the grey truck so perhaps a harness swap there will work for me

Thanks guys, helps me know *** to look for...now where is the E4OD ECU so I can remove that for potential future use?

I keep losing track of what year truck of yours is named what A brick will have round connectors indeed, and the E4OD ones will have not just on but three round connectors in its harness - black is for your solenoid pack controls wiring, green is for NSS and reverse lights and transfer case lights on the dash, and white one is for main power for the solenoid pack. To convert and E4OD truck to a stick shift you unplug all three and discard the entire transmission harness, then the stickshift trans will utilize only the green connector. Forgot what the brown and grey connectors are for, but it ain't the E4OD, so plug them back in when clip is swap is complete. Then towards the bottom/rear end of the transmission harness there is another connector (white and square IIRC, has 4 wires only), it allows you to use the same main transmission harness with 2wd, BW1345, and BW1356 - basically you just replace the tail piece with one that matches your needs, and this applies to both stickshift and E4OD harnesses.

An OBS truck may have one big square connector instead of three smaller round ones, hence why I mentioned that, for some reason I thought you're putting a stick in the new truck that has a good engine and blown E4OD.

The TCM is located behind the driver side kick panel inside the cab, on a brick it comes out from the inside while the OBS is opposite IIRC. Tall narrow connector a few inches outbord of the big bulkhead connector you undid to pull the clip, has one bolt in the middle of it, bolt takes 10mm socket. Do keep in mind that on an E4OD brick the tachometer is driven by the TCM and not directly by the tach senor on the engine, why that is idk but seeing how OBS trucks use the same TCMs I suspect they are wired the same way. Meaning if you remove the TCM or even so much as pull its relay you end up with a dead tach, however simply jumping two wires in the TCM harness together fixes that by allowing tach sensor signal to bypass the TCM altogether and go straight to the tach gauge instead. I'll have to check in the EVTM for the exact colors, but in the mean time you can search for 6.9poweredscout's ZF5 swap thread and I have them listed there.

 

[riotwarrior]

K got both sets of front/rear drive shafts off both trucks....hmm..

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F250 rear has a 1330 U joint F350 rear has a 1350 so now I've got to find ether a different yoke for the 93 trucks rear so it will take a 1350 u joint or a different rear drive shaft or a cross over u joint too funny.

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It would appear that they are reasonably priced on fleabay..

K that's where I'm at today. tomorrow a bit more..

Thanks for lookin

Al

 

[riotwarrior]

Continued with cleaning shop, and getting manure for flower beds...now Superwifey has me getting material for flowers Gary..???? What yer wife n mine get together and plan this ***** out?

Aside from that I did get the transmission completely disconnected and dropped down a bit from the block, and the block is ready to pull as well from the white rhino 91 F350.

Tomorrow if weather holds, I'll start the same procedure with the crippled hippo and get that honkin Notomatic pulled out and block ready to pull to maybe??? Gotta look at few things...and paint too!

Nuff for now..

Al

 

[riotwarrior]

Well back at last sections of trailer skirting insulating today, and then I rolled under the grey truck...crippled hippo F250 and looked really close at a couple of details. I've got some dark sooty oil stains from torque converter cover and think, rear main, and also around front as well....then I think...What if I got lucky...what if...say it's a bad seal of pan. So I decided to gander a while and low and behold that engine has 100% been out of the truck and NOT long ago for certain!

Proof is in the lack of Pudding this time...lack of ****/gribbley dirt pudding you clearly see built up on the transmission and it's THICK, on there! As you can see from these photos today, that trans has a nice thick blanket of dirt/oil/whateversmeg

So here are some shots to prove the theory of engine being removed!

This is what is all over the entire transmission, clearly it's been there quite some time!

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hard to see like I can but this bolt on drivers side compared to the transmission is spotless absolutely spotless...camera flash does NO justice

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again, drivers side upper bolt, notice the colour difference as well

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Here is on the passengers side, same issue bolts completely different colour and clean

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one engine mount nut completely gone, and you can see it sat differently as well

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Then here you can see sorta the other side where it appears the threads are cleaner than the other bolts/nuts visible

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Hmm...core plug looks clean not greasy

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again with belhousing bolts

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So that's it and all the other bolts look like they have BEEN there for quite some time so I"m not sure but I'm really thinking this engine just may indeed be a reman long block where the original pan/and VC and intake and such where reinstalled.

I'm giving serious consideration once that dead auto is out to a quick re n re of engine too...being that I can use a tractor it may be super fast....pop the hood off, undo a few more things and pull engine, drop pan and look inside! What have I to loose but sleep and a bit of silicone for pan.

I'll know more when I remove transmission, but I need my transmission jack to do so

Nuff for now

Al

 

[icanfixall]

Funny how the trans appears to have been leaking fluid for a very long time creating an exon valdes smega mess al over the trans. I can see the atf in the pic..

 

[riotwarrior]

Yesterday was a successful day in auto trans/tcase removal from the truck, and what a behemoth that is. Also was it ever covered in dirt and crud and you name it. I mean THICK! Pics of that to come, however for now, I've got something else.

After removing the transmission and the flex plate, these plugs are what I came across, as well the heads are painted BLACK and the block has a tape line as if it was a bare block masked and painted, again not proof but evidence of said reman, however I"m not 100% sure.

So let me start with this nice loose bolt here and the subsequent leak that's occuring

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Thus rear of block

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Right side notice flat core/freeze plug???

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Left side notice flat core/freeze plug???

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Black painted head

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Tape line on the block for grey paint, along with a black head????

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bottom of pic, or edge of head something stamped in

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Fresh paint on oil cooler and what looks like a new gasket, no paint on block, as though pressure washed off...

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So the evidence says replacement heads, and some core plugs replaced but after looking at a couple of plugs on stock engines sitting here at my place ALL the plugs are replacements as far as I can tell.

Looking to me like I've got to pull the engine at a minimum and reseal the pan, and maybe reset some or replace some core plugs.

Not sure what's next in this calamity of horrors

Thanks for reading

Al

 

[icanfixall]

So dose the pan have a cork gasket or an rtv gasket. That backed out pan bolt tells me somebody didn't get the seal plate correctly centered before tightening up the bolts. There is a pin to locatate that seal plate correctly to the block. As for the freeze plugs. Well those look like replaceed plugs. Can't say if they were the facory stainless steel plugs or not. Might check with a magnet but 400 series stainless is magnetic so might be right or wrong using a magnet. About that cracked block. A map or propane gas flame shot directly at the crack will show up a crack like it was nite and day. The sharp edge you can most times barely see glows red hot showing the true length of a crack. Or shows an invisible crack.

 

[riotwarrior]

Gary what CRACKED BLOCK...not this one? This engine seems to run good no leaks other than pan which is RTV only no gasket.

I'm giving very serious consideration to a pull and reseal pan, replace plugs but a 5.47 each from Ford, I'll have to find a US dealer who sells for less.

 

[icanfixall]

Al I was making a comment to everyone about seeing the crack better with a torch. I saw the rust on the bad block with the cracked cylinder. Just felt the members here could learn what I learned many years ago at work in the huge steam boilers I worked in. Many times we would see the leak during a hydro because the water would squirt out. but drop the water pressure and the leak disapears. So we would grind or sand it smooth in the suspect crack area. then put an oxy torch to it and the crack shows up very nicelt because the crack turns bright orange from the flame on it. That appearance quickly changes when the heat is removed. Then we would use dyecheck penatrat to show the crack even better than the heat. You spray on the cleaner. Dry it off then spray on the red penatrant. Then wash off the penatrant and spray with the developer which is a white powder. Now that shows a very tiny crack the heat can't show.

 

[riotwarrior]

Update time,

Got the clip near ready to remove then the engines coming out of the crippled hippo, so I can pull the rear core plugs and reinstall new ones.

I got a call from Donni at the Ford Dealer in Omak and my plugs are in, I've just got to get em shipped to Oroville.

I can't wait to get this out so I can work on a steam cleaning and then painting it Khaki after a weee tear down...just going to remove a few things and replace them with my nicely painted accesory drives and my nice freshly blasted serp brackets etc. Nice to get it clean and looking good so one can actually see when things go awry!

I'll throw on the flywheel and clutch too while it's out and drop that all back in then up goes the trans and reassembly woo hoo...

Well nuff for now pics soon!

Oh and while all this is going on I'm working on another TECH 101..Gary has given me some suggestions too.....HOW to do a leak down test! Just wait should be a nice one!

Thanks for reading

Al

 

[riotwarrior]

Between gathering parts for Rose's Ranger and my truck I'm loosing me mind..

Got a good deal on some parts for Ranger a D35 Detroit True Trac posi for front diff complete and good brakes and such so I'll swap that front in and the crappy one out and add 2" coil spacers, new shocks, new brake lines, new radius arm bushings and call it a day. That gets the front end done and solid and safe!

For me I have some parts coming, just waiting for the calls to go pick them up!

Core plugs, paid n in transit
Return line Kit W/olives and OC rebuild kit as well TY Russ
today a new seal for tcase rear output, along with a throw out bearing...damn..forgot pilot bushing *****.

Just called only SKF pilot bearings and I'm wanting a KEVLAR bushing..doh...where to get one no one has one locally or can get it..crap.

K back at project here ROFL...
Pulled seats in 91 and 94

Behind 91seats two pics This cab is very basic and the open sides at rear make good STUFF holes for stuff...of course..notice they are full! Not so in newer cab...all covered in plastic so I loose storage space DOH!

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Here is the 94 inside w/o seat...damn plastic means less storage..but I gots rear speakers now

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Also noticed my 91 visors...hmm anyone want some good blue (albeit dirty) visors with centre clips? These are tight **** visors???

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Now with this truck I will show once again my dead soldier of an engine rofl...
this is #4 hole

Notice that one half above deck other half below...can you say B E N T ROD? I sure can

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And here I have removed the Auto trans tunnel cover installed ZF cover and cut the hole..

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Now I've gotta get that clip off and engine out so I can begin the tear down and thoroughly check it out and paint it.

Prep it for new parts and then back together it goes with fancy new parts.

Oh here new fan clutch too on the 94 This is a nice bonus till I get the shroud for electric fans built.

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Kinda liking what I'm seeing so far on this 94 for most part nice! Can't wait to see under pan!

Nuff for now..

Al

 

[icanfixall]

That fan clutch heat spring sure would be easy to remove and modify to lock up earlier than the stock on does. Then you would have the MS Tech high proformance fan clutch that costs more than your first born or the left one... I just do not know how much to change it be it shorten it or lengthen it. I realize to lengthen it would be tuff but anything can be done. Actually I'm guessing you shorten it by heating it and rebending it so it closes the valve that causes lock up. Thats the split pin it connects to in the center. As heat warms up the spring it changes the valve by closing it by turning that split pin. Don't even know which way it turns...