TC lockup Mod.

[LCAM-01XA]

LCAM What do you use to draw those circuits? Really neet.

Thanks! I use just the regular MS Paint that Windows comes with, nothing fancy, just lots of hand drawing one pixel at a time

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Mkay, here comes the next one - this one is for those of ya'll who want to have "manual off" mode in addition to the "auto" and "manual lock". Since this makes three modes total we need a 3-position DPDT switch, in other words an On-Off-On (also known as "center-off) DPDT switch, and to make use of its center off position we'll need another 5-pole relay as well (the switching relay in the diagram attached), and there is also a diode to prevent current from backfeeding where it don't belong.

So what happens now is one of the end positions of the switch is the "manual lock" mode, like with the other setup when that is selected the converter will stay locked all the time in 3rd and 4th gear regardless of whether brakes are applied or not, until you either flip the switch back to "auto" mode or slow down enough to where the transmission drops out of 3rd gear. Converter will NOT lock in 1st or 2nd gear.

Next we have the center position of the switch, in which there are no currents at all passing through it, however this actually defaults the switching relay to its 30-87a pin bridge and at the same time bypasses the protective relay, thus the PCM gets connected to the TCC directly as if no mods were ever done to the system and so TCC operation is back to factory settings. The protective relay is bypassed in this "auto" mode so even tho it still clicks on and off as the transmission shifts between 2nd and 3rd gear it has no bearing on the TCC lockup

Finally, the other end position of the switch - this is the "manual off" setting, converter remains unlocked no matter how you drive your truck and what the PCM may have to say about it. Actually, the PCM shouldn't say anything, as it gets fed the dummy signal through the 22k resistor so for all intents and purposes it doesn't even realize the converter is not really doing what it commands it to do.

Wiring code:
- purple wire with yellow tracer - responsible for TCC operation, this is the one inside the transmission harness that you cut and extend both ends and feed them into the cab, the end from the TCC goes to the relay and the end from the PCM goes to the switch.
- orange wire with yellow tracer - responsible for SS1 operation, lives in the transmission harness, however this one you do NOT cut, just a splice another wire into it and feed the new wire in the cab to the relay.
- red wire - you need to add this one, use one of these "Add-A-Circuit" fuse holders that can be found at about any decent parts store, they're good for up to 10 amps on the aux circuit but you won't be pulling even half that.
-green wire - you need to add this stuff too, this is for the dummy signal resistor for the PCM and also the protective diode so the switching relay don't go nuts cycling on-off-on-off when you select the "auto" mode with the switch.
- black wire - this is the ground that will lock your converter when you select "manual lock" mode, so make sure it's grounded real good.
- gray wires - those are optional, they are for the three LEDs: red LED is on when the converter locks in "manual lock" mode, blue LED is on when you're running in "manual off" mode, and yellow LED comes on to warn you the converter will not lock cause the transmission is not in 3rd or 4th gear yet - again you can wait for the yellow to go off and then switch between blue ("manual off" mode) and red ("manual lock" mode), or you can just place the switch into "auto" mode and ignore the yellow LED entirely. I can't give the "auto" mode a green LED like last time unless I add yet another 5-pole relay which would be slightly excessive, but if someone wants it I surely can add it in the diagram...

 

[Goofyexponent]

Mkay, here comes the next one - this one is for those of ya'll who want to have "manual off" mode in addition to the "auto" and "manual lock". Since this makes three modes total we need a 3-position DPDT switch, in other words an On-Off-On (also known as "center-off) DPDT switch, and to make use of its center off position we'll need another 5-pole relay as well (the switching relay in the diagram attached), and there is also a diode to prevent current from backfeeding where it don't belong.

So what happens now is one of the end positions of the switch is the "manual lock" mode, like with the other setup when that is selected the converter will stay locked all the time in 3rd and 4th gear regardless of whether brakes are applied or not, until you either flip the switch back to "auto" mode or slow down enough to where the transmission drops out of 3rd gear. Converter will NOT lock in 1st or 2nd gear.

Next we have the center position of the switch, in which there are no currents at all passing through it, however this actually defaults the switching relay to its 30-87a pin bridge and at the same time bypasses the protective relay, thus the PCM gets connected to the TCC directly as if no mods were ever done to the system and so TCC operation is back to factory settings. The protective relay is bypassed in this "auto" mode so even tho it still clicks on and off as the transmission shifts between 2nd and 3rd gear it has no bearing on the TCC lockup

Finally, the other end position of the switch - this is the "manual off" setting, converter remains unlocked no matter how you drive your truck and what the PCM may have to say about it. Actually, the PCM shouldn't say anything, as it gets fed the dummy signal through the 22k resistor so for all intents and purposes it doesn't even realize the converter is not really doing what it commands it to do.

Wiring code:
- purple wire with yellow tracer - responsible for TCC operation, this is the one inside the transmission harness that you cut and extend both ends and feed them into the cab, the end from the TCC goes to the relay and the end from the PCM goes to the switch.
- orange wire with yellow tracer - responsible for SS1 operation, lives in the transmission harness, however this one you do NOT cut, just a splice another wire into it and feed the new wire in the cab to the relay.
- red wire - you need to add this one, use one of these "Add-A-Circuit" fuse holders that can be found at about any decent parts store, they're good for up to 10 amps on the aux circuit but you won't be pulling even half that.
-green wire - you need to add this stuff too, this is for the dummy signal resistor for the PCM and also the protective diode so the switching relay don't go nuts cycling on-off-on-off when you select the "auto" mode with the switch.
- black wire - this is the ground that will lock your converter when you select "manual lock" mode, so make sure it's grounded real good.
- gray wires - those are optional, they are for the three LEDs: red LED is on when the converter locks in "manual lock" mode, blue LED is on when you're running in "manual off" mode, and yellow LED comes on to warn you the converter will not lock cause the transmission is not in 3rd or 4th gear yet - again you can wait for the yellow to go off and then switch between blue ("manual off" mode) and red ("manual lock" mode), or you can just place the switch into "auto" mode and ignore the yellow LED entirely. I can't give the "auto" mode a green LED like last time unless I add yet another 5-pole relay which would be slightly excessive, but if someone wants it I surely can add it in the diagram...

The more you post, the more I spend, the better my truck works!!! I'm flat broke right now, but this IS the next thing I do....and a coolant filter!

That looks like it should work just fine!

 

[Agnem]

Well it looks like we have good meat. If Goofy and LCAM can make one post out of all that in a new thread, I think we would be set. Whatever you come up with, I won't see it until Monday.

 

[Goofyexponent]

I will PM you everything I got as far as pics and wiring LCAM, and I thin if everyone agrees we can use your write up as far as wiring explanation goes.....you really seem to have a lid on this as far as wiring diagrams and explanations go!

Thanks Mel, this is a REALLY hot topic with lots of useful information!

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Goofy, PM me your e-mail address, and I can make these into PDFs and send them to you, this way you don't have to retype and format stuff... Or, if you do want to retype and format, just copy-paste my two large posts with the diagrams attached to them, I tried to cover all angles in them so they should be good to go.

Oh yes, I got another diagram coming later on, this one for the full manual control with no "auto" option which is actually what I run in my truck.

 

[oldmisterbill]

In 1st 0r 2nd gear can the convertor lock without damage? I have no idea.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Bill, a while back I once threw the truck in gear with the converter still locked - the rear end lost traction and started skipping and hopping like a wild mustang till I realized my mistake and unlocked the converter. I was running empty at the time, if I had any decent weight over the rear axle I think she would have stalled the engine. Now 2nd gear is a whole different matter, I have actually used lockup in 2nd on several occasions, mostly just to see what will happen tho - well it stayed locked without any ill effects that I could noticed, not much of performance gain in the engine braking department tho. Really the reason I did these setups now so they do not lock in 1st and 2nd is because of OldBull8's recommendation of keeping the road speed higher than 35 mph, which rarely happens in 2nd gear, and definitely not in 1st.

However, if you'd like me to, I'm pretty sure I can draw you a circuit that only prevents lockup in 1st gear, but it's going to be more complicated. Let me know

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Here's the last one, this is for the full-manual off/lock operation of the converter, the PCM has absolutely no control over lockup. This is what I have in my truck and it works great, it is also the most simple of the three setups as far as wiring goes. This time we don't need a double-pole switch, a single-pole one will do just fine, however it does need to be of the On-On variety (no off position in the middle).

One of the two toggle positions is the "manual lock" mode, when that is selected the converter will stay locked all the time in 3rd and 4th gear regardless of whether brakes are applied or not, until you either flip the switch back to "auto" mode or slow down enough to where the transmission drops out of 3rd gear. Due to the protective relay doing its thing, converter will NOT lock in 1st or 2nd gear.

The other toggle position is for the "manual off" mode, converter remains unlocked no matter how you drive your truck and what the PCM may have to say about it. Speaking of which, the PCM is now fed the "dummy" TCC signal all the time, so it's happy and don't throw any codes or blink angry at you with the OD light no matter what you do with the converter.

Wiring code:
- Purple wire with Yellow tracer (P/Y) - responsible for TCC operation, this is the one inside the transmission harness that you cut and extend both ends and feed them into the cab, the end from the TCC goes to the protective relay and the end from the PCM goes to the 22k resistor.
- Orange wire with Yellow tracer (O/Y) - responsible for SS1 operation, lives in the transmission harness, however this one you do NOT cut, just a splice another wire into it and feed the new wire in the cab to the relay.
- red wire - you need to add this one, use one of these "Add-A-Circuit" fuse holders that can be found at about any decent parts store, they're good for up to 10 amps on the aux circuit but you won't be pulling even half that.
- black wire - this is the ground that will lock your converter when you select "manual lock" mode, so make sure it's grounded real good.
- gray wires - those are optional, they are for the three LEDs: red LED is on when you're in "manual lock" mode, green LED is on when you're running in "manual off" mode, and yellow LED comes on to warn you the converter will not lock cause the transmission is not in 3rd or 4th gear yet - basically you wait for the yellow to go off, and then switch between green ("manual off" mode) and red ("manual lock" mode).

 

[trackspeeder]

In 1st 0r 2nd gear can the convertor lock without damage? I have no idea.

Locking the converter in 1st or second gear can fry the tranny. Main cause is lack of lube. do to low pressure.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Locking the converter in 1st or second gear can fry the tranny. Main cause is lack of lube. do to low pressure.

Good to know! One question tho, why is there no pressure in 2nd gear? The engine (and therefore the converter) is still turning at decent speed provided one don't let her idle down, and pump is driven off the converter, right?

 

[Kevin 007]

But look at the diagram guys, at the relay post numbering. #85 and 86 are reversed of what they are in reality. Or at least all the ones that I can find. Im trying to do the off.lock mod:
(E4OD torque converter manual control (off-lock).pdf)

And im am confused as to which wires i need to put to poles 85 and 86, because the all the relays that I can find have reversed numbers. Can I just reverse the wires for those two poles or stay with the same schematic regardless of the numbers? Or is this a typo?

Any input would be great! What do your relays look like?

 

[benton]

oops double post!

 

[benton]

wouldnt it be just easier to just buy this and install it? i was thinking about getting on! http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BDD-1030395/

 

[yARIC008]

My truck HAD AC, but I think AC is for wimps and girls .

Well... you obviously live in Canada, Here... in summer, you roll down the window while driving and it's like fire is hitting you in the face. You get out of the car once you get somewhere as a sweaty pile of clothes without A/C.