You will have to remove the Oil Cooler whole. remove the 4 bolts on ea end, and slide to the rear.
There is a metal tab welded on the side of the cooler on each end. This is to pry the aluminum header off. the tab will probably bend some. You might also have to use a Dead blow hammer, or maybe a piece of wood and a hammer to tap around the edge to get the ends to pop over the "O" Rings.
Genscripter has good info in his video, he also shows hot to pressure test the Cooler to make sure it is not compromised inside.
There is a gasket kit with the 2 paper gaskets and the 4 "O" Rings.
Parts Geek pizzed me off when they showed the cooler with the gasket/o rings but only the Cooler came. was a generic picture they told me.
Did a bunch of Google searching and found them up in Missoula, MT at Gomers wearhouse...
order 4 sets case I screwed up getting it back together.
When I put her back in, had my Wife help me. Told her ya gotta just get one bolt in and finger tight.
I got one in my end and it went right together.
I used some RTV or maybe a permatex gasket stuff just to hold the paper gasket onto the cooler, or maybe onto the block, don`t remember. Just something to keep it lined up.
The paper gasket do have a thin line of some rubbery orange seal.
If anyone thinks removing the front wheel and inner fender etc... is too much extra work. well maybe it is, but I got rid of the factory fiber glass mat/insulation, Was oil soaked and filthy dirty, and then with everything out, you have great access to replacing the 3/8" rubber fuel line that goes to the ( long gone in my case) Fuel/Water seperator.
I later on added a Racor 500FG Fuel/Water seperator in that location. And when I did I had the new hose already in place.
Replacing the OC is a pita job to do, but if mine was original, 30 years is good service.
Goat