Zf5 fluid

pelky350

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I thought I was reading to put synthetic atf in my transmission over mercron v but after changing it to mobile 1 synthetic it likes to kinda pop into first gear is how I would describe it? Almost like clutch isn't in all the way like a pop kinda grinding metal sound. Not every time but about half the time. Did I use the wrong stuff for it? Also while changing it for the first time to me there was quite a bit a glittery material in the catch pan and some sludge in the bottom of my trans, almost as much as a auto trans would have and the same looking stuff.
 

Dieselpowerking

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I thought I was reading to put synthetic atf in my transmission over mercron v but after changing it to mobile 1 synthetic it likes to kinda pop into first gear is how I would describe it? Almost like clutch isn't in all the way like a pop kinda grinding metal sound. Not every time but about half the time. Did I use the wrong stuff for it? Also while changing it for the first time to me there was quite a bit a glittery material in the catch pan and some sludge in the bottom of my trans, almost as much as a auto trans would have and the same looking stuff.

I used synthetic in mine that's what are parts manger said it called for from.the books.
 

ISPKI

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I used Wolf Synthetic, works great so far.
 

pelky350

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It almost acts like a hydronic issue but they are only a couple years old and so is the clutch it's a luk single mass
 

MtnHaul

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I got 35k on Royal Purple ATF and it shifts like butter--even with 338k on the trans. No grinding or popping out of gear., new LUK clutch.
 

pelky350

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So does that mean my trans is dying at only 180k? It only seemed to start doing this after changing the fluid out. Idk if I told matters much but I did put a thing of Lucas in a long time ago when I was low on fluid? But again the amount of gunk and debris I got from the trans fluid change worries me a little being a manual I didn't think they lost that much material during a fluid change?
 

chillman88

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Well I'm no expert but it sounds to me like your synchros were going bad and the fluid change just made it more apparent.

Kinda like the old myth about a fluid change killing an automatic. There's no grit floating around in the fluid, so the problem that was already there is just more noticeable now.

EDIT: If you were inclined to test my theory, I think Chryslers ATF+4 specification contains some friction additive which could potentially help in this situation. I'm not saying go buy it, but if you find yourself looking at a rebuild it might be worth a try.
 

tractorhead

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I have a very worn out zf5, recently put syncros and bearings in it, it will not shift properly at all with mercon v only in it. It works reasonably well with 25% Lucas and mercon v.
 

264WSM

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The book calls for ATF synthetic. This is usually 10w or 15w oil. Using a light oil like this helps with your fuel mileage, but is not your friend if you tow regularly. If you tow regularly, I'd recommend a 30w synthetic trans oil. I use this in my truck that tows https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-prod...nthetic-powershift-transmission-fluid-sae-30/ . In my grocery getter truck I use a 15w synthetic. If your trans has a fresh rebuild on it, I would get 20K on it before switching to the 30w.
 

DrCharles

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It can make a difference with engine oil though. Over 30 years ago I built my first big-block Plymouth Valiant (383 and a four-speed, lots of fun and fairly cheap) and changing from 20W-50 to 10W-40 made 0.4 mpg difference, consistently. Averaged 12.3 vs. 12.7 mixed city/highway driving.

So a transmission with lots of moving parts like a ZF-5 may also exhibit a measurable change but I would guess 0.1 mpg or less.
 

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