Work in Progress

sle2115

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Ok, the ZF5 is in, everything is hooked up except the driveshafts. Just started it and hear a metalic rub up near the flywheel. I assume the inspection cover, and I'll have to remove the y-pipe to get it out for a look. Otherwise, everything seems to be working.

A couple questions though...My clutch pedal has never returned to the proper height. Generally, with the 4 speed, I could slip my foot under the clutch pedal, lift it up and then depress with good results...if I didn't lift it, shifting was stiff. I used an adjustable clutch master cylinder pushrod as well. Oh and for clarification, every part is new in the clutch system, new master cylinder, new slave, new hydraulic line connecting the two, new clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, throwout bearing, etc. I'm using the solid flywheel, kevlar pilot, etc. Should I lengthen the pushrod and put a little preload on things?

Had to move the crossmember back to the rear set of holes, will have to drill the holes for the "wing" brackets. Also found that the crossmember and rear trans mount were very loose on the 4 speed.

Anyway, think I'll put the hydroboost on through the week and hopefully figure out this tinny sounding rub without having to remove the transmission/transfer case. Rear shaft looks like it will just bolt in with no problems, so I assume the front will do the same since I'm using the same t-case. The shifter for the t-case is bolted on, but the bend on the bottom flange where the linkage hooks between the shifter and t-case isn't going to work. Anyone experienced this in their ZF5 swap?

I'm using a 1345 transfer case (from my truck) as well as the shifter that bolted to the T19 to 1345 tcase adapter.

Anyway, making good progress, can't wait for the test drive!

 

gonecrazyi

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I had the same problem with my clutch pedal being stiff and not returning. It ended up being that the return spring was broken. Once that was fixed i no longer needed the extended cluth rod.
 

sle2115

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I had the same problem with my clutch pedal being stiff and not returning. It ended up being that the return spring was broken. Once that was fixed i no longer needed the extended cluth rod.

Mine isn't stiff, and there seems to be spring tension that holds it down!!! If I push it down, it will stay part way. I'm sure there is still some air in all this new hydraulics, but I don't think that's all that is going on as it did it before too. Is the return spring you are talking about on the pedal assembly?
 

icanfixall

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Yes.... Its tucked up near the side of the peddle under the dash. Looks real tuff to reach...
 

gonecrazyi

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My spring.was still there but was broken in half and really didn't assist anything. I just swapped in a new pedal assembly. Could it be that the bushings in your pedal assembly are worn to the point that parts are dragging?
also, with the flywheel cover, when i put my luk kit in i had to take a hammer to the inspection cover in order to get it to not flank on the flywheel while running.
 

sle2115

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My spring.was still there but was broken in half and really didn't assist anything. I just swapped in a new pedal assembly. Could it be that the bushings in your pedal assembly are worn to the point that parts are dragging?
also, with the flywheel cover, when i put my luk kit in i had to take a hammer to the inspection cover in order to get it to not flank on the flywheel while running.


I hope that's all I have to do, unfortunately, I have to take the crossover (y-pipe) off to get it out to see if that's it. I'm gonna just loosen things and see if I can get the plate clear out then start it. I'll go from there. Otherwise, the tranny sounds great, even with the tunnel cover off, it shifts well, not much if any rollover noise.

The bushings are all new as well, put them in a year or so ago, but all is snug and seems to be working well up under there other than apparently this spring. Gonna tear into it one night this week and see what I can find. I just ran out of steam after wrestling the tranny and transfer case in there by myself in all this heat. Anyway, it's in...a big first step!
 

biggin92

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wow i thought i was the only person dumb enough to wrestle trannys and transfer cases in by myself , my friends think im stupid for doing it by myself , but im a very impatient person and dont have time to wait for their help!! besides i always get it up in there somehow , i just put the zf5 in my truck ,it was light compared to the e4od i took out of it.
 

opusd2

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You mean some people get help working on their vehicles?
 

hesutton

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Scott, I'll be in the same boat in the near future. I'm in the process of converting the crew cab from a C6 to ZF5. I hope it goes smoothly.

Heath
 

Agnem

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Scott, if the clutch will disengage with it held to the floor OK, then just live with the pedal not coming up for a while. Use your toe to pull it up all the way. After you have driven it for a while, it will automatically correct itself. I had this same problem with the Scarlet Moose and bled it until I bled to death, but to no avail. Started driving it, and it just fixed itself. :dunno Probably took a few hundred miles to get itself righted, so don't expect it to happen quickly.
 

sle2115

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Scott, if the clutch will disengage with it held to the floor OK, then just live with the pedal not coming up for a while. Use your toe to pull it up all the way. After you have driven it for a while, it will automatically correct itself. I had this same problem with the Scarlet Moose and bled it until I bled to death, but to no avail. Started driving it, and it just fixed itself. :dunno Probably took a few hundred miles to get itself righted, so don't expect it to happen quickly.


i thought the same thing with the t19...it never fixed itself. It had a new clutch master, and a new slave, although I took the plastic slave off and put the aluminum one back on...just something about these plastic ones that I'm not fond of!

If it releases clean, I'll deal with it for a while though.
 

bike-maker

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I did the C6 to ZF5 swap with the BW1345 transfer case. As far as linkage goes, I used the shift mechanism from the ZF5, and punched a new hole in the floor pan next to the trans cover. I used the piece of linkage out of the ZF5 that went from the shifter to the transfer case and drilled a new hole in it making it effectively about 3/4" shorter. The last step was to grind the tab off of the shifter to alleviate having to jam the shifter sideways to go into low range - this only applies to some of them. It works buttery smooth; I use it all the time for backing my trailer up.
 
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