Where to thread in pyrometer probe

[ISPKI]

Hey all. I am looking at replacing my IP on my 94 F250. Guessing its original and its giving me issues hot starting (as in, truck cant start at all when hot). I was looking at CDD and R&D's slightly higher flow pumps as I am intending to put a banks turbo on it eventually.

For that, I figured it would be a good time to install my pyrometer gauges and I was wondering where you folks installed yours? I have 2 brand new exhaust manifolds and 2 probes and gauges so I figured I would install one in each manifold.

 

[Kevin 007]

At the rear most of the manifold on the drivers side is where I do mine. On the top. If you are drilling and tapping the manifold while on the truck, keep in mind you need room to turn the tap handle. Think about that before drilling your hole. A probe on either side is fine, but might be a bit overkill. Certainly won't hurt anything tho. Could help diagnose fueling issues on one bank or another by watching the gauges.

 

[ISPKI]

At the rear most of the manifold on the drivers side is where I do mine. On the top. If you are drilling and tapping the manifold while on the truck, keep in mind you need room to turn the tap handle. Think about that before drilling your hole. A probe on either side is fine, but might be a bit overkill. Certainly won't hurt anything tho. Could help diagnose fueling issues on one bank or another by watching the gauges.

Good point on the tap handle. That could be a pain. Yeah I wouldnt bother with the two if I hadnt come upon them for cheap. Salvaged a full set of banks dynafact gauges from a wrecked cummins and then picked up another set when I bought my sidewinder which had a brand new probe. Figured I might as well use them.

 

[catbird7]

Put mine in the exhaust pipe just below the manifold (driverside). My thinking was welding a bung onto the pipe is easier than drilling and taping the cast iron manifold and far easier to fix if you screw up.

 

[Cubey]

This is where ATS put the threaded pyro sender location on the 085 kits. Dunno if that's the best place or not but that's where mine is. I try to stay at 1,000-1,500*F absolute max to give a small bit of extra ceiling for it to get higher. That's on steep grades and/or heavy wind. Everyday highway driving stays around 900-950*F max generally on flat roads with light to moderate wind. If almost no wind and staying at 55, it can be as low as 700*F.

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[Kevin 007]

And if anyone finds them self in a bind (drilled a hole before considering if there is enuff room to turn a tap handle) you can put a tap in a drill that has variable torque settings and GENTLY work it back and forth, CAREFULLY; and cut yourself some threads that way. I have done it a couple times on various things.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

And if anyone finds them self in a bind (drilled a hole before considering if there is enuff room to turn a tap handle) you can put a tap in a drill that has variable torque settings and GENTLY work it back and forth, CAREFULLY; and cut yourself some threads that way. I have done it a couple times on various things.

Boy. I'm sure that it works, but I'd be afraid to try that myself. I figure that I'd end up with a broken tap inside the hole. Apparently I'm not confident enough in my skills to tackle this one. My hat's definitely off to whoever can do this one successfully.

 

[bilbo]

I have done them with a ratchet and 12pt socket. I think it would work with the socket and a u-joint if an area is cramped. I’d feel more comfortable with that than running the tap in with a drill.

 

[frankenwrench]

Boy. I'm sure that it works, but I'd be afraid to try that myself. I figure that I'd end up with a broken tap inside the hole. Apparently I'm not confident enough in my skills to tackle this one. My hat's definitely off to whoever can do this one successfully.

That's how I've done several probes. Just gotta have trigger discipline. The wife's 88 suburban had egr ports on the exhaust manifolds that I drilled out and tapped in the same manner. 1 1/4" plugs. Works like a charm.

 

[bilbo]

Just gotta have trigger discipline.

That’s the part I’ve always struggled with!

 

[TNBrett]

I’ve done plenty of tapping with a drill. The torque settings are on most cordless drills. It’s the collar up near the chuck with the numbers on it. Some times with a picture of a screw. It’s just an adjustable slip clutch that uses multiple detent balls to transmit the torque. The adjuster is just changing the preload of the spring. The biggest challenge I’ve had doing this is that some times the clutch isn’t tight enough. If you start with a low setting and work your way up, it doesn’t really require much in the way of trigger control. Also keep in mind that most taps break from uneven or side loading not from actual rotational torque. That’s why tap handles are tee shaped. It’s very easy to break a tap using a ratchet, and I personally would be very leery of using a u-joint.


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