what kind of yoke to buy

[mustangmatt89]

My truck is a 93 f250 regular cab, 7.3 idi originally non turbo, e40d auto trans, 4x4, and it has the dana 50 front axle, and the heavy duty rear end i beleive a sterling.. I need to buy a new yoke and wondering what yoke to buy and where to start looking, I don't have time to go to the junk yard, so that is out of the option

 

[Diesel_brad]

Yolk for what?

 

[mustangmatt89]

For the rear or main driveshaft coming from the back of the trans

 

[OnDaRoad]

You need to pull your old yoke ....

For the rear or main driveshaft coming from the back of the trans

I have been down this road before ...

The only sure way to match the rear differential yoke is to
pull your yoke and match it - they are different lengths ....

Of course, when you pull your yoke - you better have another
one to put on because you are down for the day so to speak.

First, determine if you need a yoke - the wear on the yoke can be in the splines
where it fits into the rear differential or in the yoke itself where the u jointsits.

You can check for wear at the u joint by replacing the u joint
and seeing if there is play when you install it with new straps
on the rear - if no play then check for side to side play on the splines
to see if there is wear at that point.

If there is wear at either point - get a new (not used) yoke.
The length of the yoke has to be matched if you are using the same driveline.


Here is my suggestion when addressing the driveline:

Chear the rear output shaft of your manual or automatic
transmission for wear on the spline and you where the
universal joint fits.

Check the rear output shaft seal for leaks.

Check the universal joints - center carrier support/bearing (if equipped)
along with the spline shaft connection on a two piece drive line
for wear in addition to the rear output shaft as covered above.

If you have never had it done, balance the complete driveline.

Find a driveline repair shop to bring your drive line to,
the drive line is easy to pull and replace.

The shop can check the u joints - driveline - carrier bearing & support
along with the spline shaft connection on two piece drive lines and balance it.

Why is it important to do this ?


On my first F350, I paid an @sshole mechanic to rebuild
my rear differential completely and repair an output shaft leak
on my ZF 5 speed ..... this was done after @sshole mechanic
told me my rear differential needed to be rebuilt

Very shortly late - the ZF transmission output shaft seal blew out at highway speed
that (as it turned out) the @sshole mechanic siliconed
and I lost all my tranny fluid - then my driveline .......

I had to pay for a tow for my truck & trailer in Texas off the freeway .....

I spent (2) weeks at a great repair shop in Texas and had my
ZF tranny replaced - rear differential rebuilt - driveline rebuilt
and clutch replaced ......

Oh ...... and the @sshole mechanic who had rebuilt (2) other
automatic trannys for me and was (I thought) my friend ???

Never paid a dime for that work or did a d@mn thing to make it right


As you may have guessed - my pet peeve is @sshole mechanics

Do everything you can on your vehicle - make sure whoever does
anything else on your vehicle knows what the Hell they are doing