Gear Vendor output yoke?

Cubey

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I've arranged to buy what looks to be a new-old-stock Gear Vendor unit (under the Laycock brand, "P Type") with the C6 adapters (tailpiece, bushing, speedo cable) for a pretty darn good price, assuming it's not junk being passed off as an "implied NOS" unit (my words, not theirs), but it has the original box for the C6 tailpiece so that seems unlikely.

Besides the obviously missing controller/wires (not a big deal, easy to DIY), the output yoke isn't there. I'm guessing I need a special one for the GV? The stock photo for the complete kit from GV sells shows an output yoke sitting among the parts, so I'm guessing that's the case. Does GV sell that by itself, and how much if so?

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Cubey

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I might have figured it out, but can anyone confirm?

The Dana/Spicer U-joints for my E350 say:

DANA 51330X
Fits Rear Driveshaft at Transmission; with 3.625" Outside Snap Ring; 1.062" Bearing Cap; with 1 Piece Rear Drive Shaft
or Rear Driveshaft at Support Bearing; with 3.625" Outside Snap Ring; 1.062" Bearing Cap; with 2 Piece Rear Drive Shaft
or Rear Driveshaft at Transmission; Automatic trans.; with 3.625" Outside Snap Ring; 1.062" Bearing Cap; with 2 Piece Rear Drive Shaft

Noting the part numbr, 51330X, I'm guessing that means 1330 series?

This site has several slip yokes listed as being for GV use, and one is for 1330 series:
 

Black dawg

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In these years ford used mostly 1350s in the 1 ton applications, could be 1330, would check to to sure.
You will also need the speedo cable adapter.
 

Old Goat

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Here is GV web site, poke around in there or call their tech line. I called them to find out about the adapter that connects to the trans. I also have the C6 one. They were very helpful.


Good score on finding one ......new?.... ya never know.
I guess you lost that one that was in for sale section.


Goat
 

Cubey

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Here is GV web site, poke around in there or call their tech line. I called them to find out about the adapter that connects to the trans. I also have the C6 one. They were very helpful.


Good score on finding one ......new?.... ya never know.
I guess you lost that one that was in for sale section.


Goat

Yep looks new old stock to me, since it has the boxes.

I sent an email to GV asking about the yoke, so we'll see what they say in a few days. But since U-joint adapters exist, I'll probably get the 50% cheaper 1350 yoke, maybe this coming fall/winter.

In these years ford used mostly 1350s in the 1 ton applications, could be 1330, would check to to sure.
You will also need the speedo cable adapter.

It has the speedometer cable but not the calibration thing the cables connect to, since none of the wiring is there.
 

Cubey

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It looks like the plastic bag has shims and some other bits of hardware. (GV needs to update their site with better photos)

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I marked out everything that's missing for sure. What is that thing that I have marked with the "?". That's not the coupler for the C6 output shaft, that's up next to the tail piece. It appears to be in the parts bag with the one I'm getting, but still wanna know what it's for.


A better shot of it:

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I guess I need to see if GV will email me a PDF of the installation manual, although I'll probably have to take it to a shop to have it installed. I'll probably find one that has GV experience, even if it costs more, since they probably know how without the manual (or have a copy of the manual themselves). Better than having some idiots do it wrong and damage it.

And yes I'll have to get a shop to do it, since it'll need a shorter driveshaft. I'm gonna hopefully find a used one for 176" WB and have that modified, rather than chopping up the original on here, in case I want to remove the GVOD and move it to something else some day, and put the original driveshaft back on. Seems unlikely though, so maybe that's a waste of money. I'm gonna be keeping this thing until it's total junk most likely. Maybe I could hunt down a 176" WB driveshaft later on if I want to put it back to stock. There's no shortage of old Ford E350 motorhomes sitting in junk yards, I'm sure.
 

typ4

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Keep your existing driveshaft. Actually a very easy install. I am removing mine and going E4Od , if it breaks I can get one anywhere, if the GV breaks, im stranded.
 

Cubey

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Keep your existing driveshaft. Actually a very easy install. I am removing mine and going E4Od , if it breaks I can get one anywhere, if the GV breaks, im stranded.

It would be tough to haul around a complete spare drive shaft, even with it split in half (it's a two piece driveshaft) though not impossible.

I'm thinking i will be dropping the trailer after i sell the f250 and getting a classic beetle to pull behind instead of a cargo trailer. They weigh next to nothing and would be more useful for a daily driver than a scooter.

I suppose the spare driveshaft might fit in the "luggage shelf" area behind the rear seat of a Beetle, if split apart. But yeah until then, I guess i need to keep my eyes peeled for a spare driveshaft.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Keep your existing driveshaft. Actually a very easy install. I am removing mine and going E4Od , if it breaks I can get one anywhere, if the GV breaks, im stranded.
Thought you had 4x4? If the GV breaks you pull the rear shaft after the slip yoke and drive it like a Honda! Cause you'll be FWD till you get it fixed, lol! :joker:
I only say that because I've done it... :fight:

Ok now I see in your siggy you've got a dually 2wd GV so I get the picture.
 

Cubey

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I'm almost there to get it. Thanks to heavy tail winds, I've been getting darn good MPGs. Plus a lot has been downhill so far, but tomorrow is going to be a lot more mountains on I-84 W of Boise. The average over many tanks has been 9.8mpg. I swear it seems like it gets better mpg when I drive it a ton in a short amount of time. I guess it's because the injectors get very clean. When it sits a lot, the MPG is worse at first.

My C6 might be starting to go though, it's delaying into 3rd ever since I went through Death Valley, but once in gear, it's fine.
 

Cubey

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Picked up the unit today. Definitely new old stock. It's missing the speedometer gear that goes into the unit itself as I expected, but that's something you must change depending on the differential you have for a proper speedometer reading, so even if it was there, might have been the wrong ratio.



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Cubey

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It appears they use the TH400 speedometer housing too, and presumably the plastic gears.

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Old Goat

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Here is a Gear vendor install thread might be of help.
There is also a deep sump that can be added for an extra qt of ATF.



Goat
 

Cubey

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Thanks. Yeah I know about the deep sump etc. Dunno when I can get around to installing this, but it's gonna be a while.

First have to:
- Get yoke
- Get speedometer gear
- Somehow adapt the speedometer cable without the "signal generator"?
- Get second driveshaft & have it shortened
- Make a wiring harness with a toggle switch, LEDs, and relays to "control" it

The plan for the "controller" is to do it how @genscript says on his page with a nc relay for reverse so it disables it, but I'll take it one step further and put in a tiny intermittent beeper that activates when in reverse so i know the backup lights are on working and therefore know that the GV is off. or some such thing. That's an idea anyway.

Or a less annoying thing would just be two LEDs by the toggle switch: green and red. green means OD is on, red on means the OD is off due to being in reverse. If wired right, green should cut out if red is on, so only one or the other should ever be lit.

green off: OD off
green on: OD on
red off: not in reverse
red on: OD disabled due to being in reverse (green should be off)

I would prefer the proper controller but unless i can get a working one for a cheap price that also includes the signal generator, I'll have to do without. I'm awful at soldering, so repairing one is not something I could do.
 
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