What is this part called??? Oil pressure sender port crack.

SirRea63l

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This goes without saying, but make sure you close that crack up before welding it.
 

Thatoneguy

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This goes without saying, but make sure you close that crack up before welding it.

Of course. Squeezed it together with a C-Clamp. Made sure it was nice and tight and I grooved it out a little bit while cleaning it up getting it ready to weld.
 

icanfixall

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Russ is known as typ4 here. Not type4... He is the person to see bout this part. Now please make sure you dig out the rubber seals in that feed line nut. Both ends of the oil to turbo feed line have those rubber seals that look like a piece of cut hose. Russ will have them too. TIG welding this was probably the better idea and I suspect this part is cast steel.. Not cast iron. Sadly I forgot how to tell by grinding a small area and looking at the sparks. Probably Utube has vids showing what cast iron and cast steel sparks look like. Even if you ground into the threads and welded it up you could still repair the threads with a pipe thread tap. This fitting has tapered pipe threads for this oil sender threads as does all the oil ports and coolant ports on the idi block. If you have never used a tapered pipe tap to cut threads you do not run the tap all the way thru any metal because that makes the threaded hole too large to react to the fitting. Pipe threads are tapered so they seal up. Only electrical condiut is non tapered pipe threads.
 

Thatoneguy

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I understand what y'all are saying. Right now I just gotta do the best I can with what I got available cuz I need my truck to get me to work tomorrow morning. Don't have the right tap to redo the threads, don't have any argon left to TIG it, best I got is my torch for a good preheat and E70S6 MIG wire. And then I rolled it in a thick towel and duct tape it tight to let it cool very slowly. Yes you are correct it is cast steel not cast iron, I mistyped. I'm already talking with Mr Russ about the part. Basically just gonna take it easy on the old girl until I can get the new part installed. As for the rubber thing you're talking about icanfixall, I looked at the male end of the hard line and didn't even see a regular O-ring. So I used some permatex thread sealant (white tube stuff) and put it on. Snugged it down nice but not too tight. I wish I could have TIG welded this... I've got Hastelloy W filler metal that would have mixed PERFECTLY with this part. But, such is life. Worst case scenario I can take it to work with me, have a buddy machine out my weld and give me a nice bevel, rethread it, and BAM pretty much a brand new part!
 

Thatoneguy

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Oh and for the spark test to tell if it's cast iron or steel... Cast steels sparks are MUCH thicker and brighter than cast iron. Once you've seen the difference it's pretty easy to tell from then on. Another test which is really only good for bigger parts and if you've got good ears, is tap it was a hammer or something hard. A ring means steel, and thus means iron. Or a hardening test....
 

jwalterus

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I'da just slathered on a *** of JB and tapped it LOL

It's not like you're gonna have enough pressure to pop it
 

Thatoneguy

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I'da just slathered on a *** of JB and tapped it LOL

It's not like you're gonna have enough pressure to pop it

Hahahaha that is actually very true! I hadn't even thought of that but that's funny lol. Oh well if I can't get another part (still have no stinken clue what's that's called) and if I'm worried about it I'll re-weld it with some nickel filler made for cast ;)
 

Thatoneguy

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Aaaaaaaand I just realized I put the part back on and hooked a anything up with no gasket under it.... Dude I swear I am the dumbest thing walkin lol. Think it will leak?
 

icanfixall

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Yes it will leak for sure without a gasket. I did see part of a gasket in your pics.
 

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