US Gear Dual Range / Doug Nash Info

thedieselkid

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well i was playing around with it today and doesnt look like its good for anything but a c6 unless maybe i install it backwards then it woukd be an overdrive but not sure if thats possible. input shaft on the dual gear has big 10 spline female shaft. the output shaft of c6 goes into female stub shaft that converts into the 10 spine held in by collar clamp in another adapter. the rear has a transfer case pattern but i cant get the drum off. i took speedo gear out only moves 1/8". do have to take nut off center of drum??

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thedieselkid

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these part numbers arent even on dual range list? what the heck???
72-80021
rfdotf-7AC40b

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IDIBRONCO

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I'd guess that the 72-80021 may be a part number for the flange and may have been made by some one else. I can't really tell where on the outside the other number is, but it's possible that it's the same thing.
 

towcat

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this is what the front & back of mime looks like. just picked up this one as a spare.

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thedieselkid

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yes lookks like adapter for the input flange. never knew c6 makes 10 spline. turns out in the 70s the c6 came with them. also forklifts use the c6 with 10 spline and heavy duty apps. well ill never find the kit for zf or 4r100. im having little bit of trouble getting drum off to see what outputshaft looks like.
also looks like aluminum flange adapter is same in front and back.

anyone interested in buying this unit? pm me.
 

thedieselkid

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towcat did you just pick that one up? is that oem us gear adapter plate / clocking ring or is that the one you had made? or is that the plate you used to reverse engineer the clock ring?
 

thedieselkid

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how would you calculate gear ratio???? got the 60 input sun with 28 planetarys and 31 planetary and 55 sun gear on output shaft.
 

Arthur Eckert

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Well as much as I hate to revive old dead threads this seems to be the most recent one I could fine. Most seem to be around 2014. Anyway short version is I have a unit that seems to have developed a leak in the side plate and I have been trying to find a replacement before I resort to JBweld which seems like someone previously did. This is just a pic I stole from eBay but I just need that side plate since I assume a new gasket is a lost cause as well. It looks like the exhaust was rubbing on that button/part sticking out and somewhere someone JBwelded it and its leaking now.




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Scotty4

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Well as much as I hate to revive old dead threads this seems to be the most recent one I could fine. Most seem to be around 2014. Anyway short version is I have a unit that seems to have developed a leak in the side plate and I have been trying to find a replacement before I resort to JBweld which seems like someone previously did. This is just a pic I stole from eBay but I just need that side plate since I assume a new gasket is a lost cause as well. It looks like the exhaust was rubbing on that button/part sticking out and somewhere someone JBwelded it and its leaking now.




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Link is broken
 

Arthur Eckert

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It was actually just supposed to be a photo. I can't seem to remove the broken one but I uploaded a new one that is working for me at least.
 

jaluhn83

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My approach would probably be to machine a 'top hat' that would go over the OD of that and mate with the flat surface of the plate and either weld to or have screw to hold it to the plate. Probably could find a plastic cap or similiar that would do the same and not require machining. Find something that fits reasonably snuggly and slobber a bunch of hardening type RTV in there when you put it on and if you're lucky that will seal it and hold the cap on.

Unwise to weld directly to the 'button' as that is a pocket on the inside that support the shift fork shaft.

Gasket on the plate/body surface can either be made from gasket material or just use RTV.
 
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