US Gear Dual Range / Doug Nash Info

[Arthur Eckert]

My approach would probably be to machine a 'top hat' that would go over the OD of that and mate with the flat surface of the plate and either weld to or have screw to hold it to the plate. Probably could find a plastic cap or similiar that would do the same and not require machining. Find something that fits reasonably snuggly and slobber a bunch of hardening type RTV in there when you put it on and if you're lucky that will seal it and hold the cap on.

Unwise to weld directly to the 'button' as that is a pocket on the inside that support the shift fork shaft.

Gasket on the plate/body surface can either be made from gasket material or just use RTV.

That is actually a great idea thanks. I hadn't considered just finding a cap and RTVing it over the old one. Any idea how hot that should get? Aside from the exhaust being there. I am just thinking I could 3d print a cap but I am wondering how hot the exhaust will get in that area. I figured if I took off the plate I would end up with a new RTV gasket already. I was debating any modern JBweld type material as well. Not sure if thats what you meant by the hardening type of RTV?

 

[jaluhn83]

Shouldn't get too hot - mine I think would get up to about 250* oil temp, and that's on a 4wd with the t-case blocking almost all airflow over it. Having the exhaust right next to it is going to cause problems though. Definitely need a metal cap, pretty sure plastic would melt.

Hardening type RTV is the normal stuff you get at parts stores. Non-hardening (permetex #2 or similar) is something I use more commonly, hence the differentiation. Just like is sounds, the hardening type cures and turns into a solid, while non hardening stays in a somewhat tacky liquid state.

 

[Arthur Eckert]

So I maybe making this harder than it needs to be. The gearbox is only supposed to hold about a quart of fluid and I just drained it and got a solid quart and a half. So that is after whatever has leaked out as well as it was gushing out of the fill port. I am wondering if the input seal on the Dual Range has gone bad and is allowing ATF to over fill it. I have been puzzled and mulling this over since the fluid I put in it was green and its clearly ATF coming out and you cant really over fill them since it will just run out. Anyone have any idea if a new seal can be sourced and from where? I would hate to have to pull it all apart and leave it in pieces while I try to find one. I have what I believe is the part number from US Gears but as we all know they are long gone and this has been discontinued.

 

[jaluhn83]

Check back through this thread - I posted a bunch of part numbers but can't recall if I had seal PNs or not. If not, measure ID, OD & thickness and do some research - I'm sure there's an oil seal out there which will fit.

 

[Arthur Eckert]

Check back through this thread - I posted a bunch of part numbers but can't recall if I had seal PNs or not. If not, measure ID, OD & thickness and do some research - I'm sure there's an oil seal out there which will fit.

Fantastic and thanks.. Yes, you listed SKF 19611 as the input shaft seal. Measurements of that seal are 35x52x8. At least that gives me hope! Its drive-able now even if I want to keep it limited until I get this fixed. I just wanted to avoid having to tear it apart in the driveway and having it sit while I source parts. I had to do that with my Volvo since no one could get me the right drive shaft seal. My biggest fear was it was going to run dry but clearly that wont be the issue in the mean time.