Ujoints

Cant Write

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Dad also thought to find a driveline shop to check run-out and balance since I have no history of the rig....

The slop concerned me, but I was surprised that it was not puking fluid with how much it moved. Did not feel like front Ujoint, but was hard to tell if it is a combo or just yoke/tailhousing movement.
 

u2slow

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@u2slow 1-piece shaft. No carrier bearing.

How do I go about checking for wear on the yoke? Tail shaft housing? Drop the drive shaft, remove the yoke and slide back in tail shaft housing?

Look at the splines? Try another yoke?

I guess that easy for me to say as i have spares. It would be nice to think the tailshaft is harder metal than the yoke, and the yoke takes the wear, but I can't rely on that.

I use my 30-ton hydraulic press for ujoints. Some are pretty tight in there.
 

Rdnck84_03

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I do have a ball joint press for GM corporate 10/ Dana 44 sized axles. Will that work?
I am not sure what the press you are referencing is.
You must be registered for see images attach

The one I have is otc brand but same set.
I have done many with a vice and sockets also.

There shouldn't be very much play in that yoke. It should slide freely but shouldn't have any noticeable slop.
If it is worn it should only be the yoke as the output shaft is hardened.

James
 

Cant Write

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Thanks James!!

I have the OTC version as well.

Would the yolk wallow out the tail housing? Or would that not matter?

And how does one fix it, get a new yoke, and rebalance the shaft?

Seems maybe I should take the shaft into a driveline shop as the is is above my pay grade.....
 

ROCK HARVEY

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I rented the ball joint press the first time around, but ended up using my bench vise and a big hammer to get the job done. I think the ball joint press would have worked better if it wasn’t an abused rental unit.

I know the 1356 transfer case slip yoke has a bushing/bearing in the tail housing, so I assume the 2wd transmissions have something similar.
 

Cant Write

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Found this thread. Anyone have something to add? I don’t have a press, friends do. I guess the guy who runs Aatco trans an hour away is trustworthy, and there is a driveline shop 2 hours away.

I’m thinking of calling the trans shop and getting a quote on 2 ujoints and a tail shaft bushing. I’m sure it will be outrageous.

Then I’m thinking about doing it myself. But the post mentioned special tools? I would pull the tail housing. And add a grounding strap. And replace the speedo gear o-ring.
 

hacked89

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Found this thread. Anyone have something to add? I don’t have a press, friends do. I guess the guy who runs Aatco trans an hour away is trustworthy, and there is a driveline shop 2 hours away.

I’m thinking of calling the trans shop and getting a quote on 2 ujoints and a tail shaft bushing. I’m sure it will be outrageous.

Then I’m thinking about doing it myself. But the post mentioned special tools? I would pull the tail housing. And add a grounding strap. And replace the speedo gear o-ring.
I have a full video on end to end drivetrain ujoints. I have a shop press. If you don’t have that I would find or buy online a Chinese hand held press like was linked in this thread. If you don’t have that you can honestly do it with a hammer. Will just require cursing with the hammer. You can also follow my video but use a vice and the same sockets like redneck mentioned.

The main down side I’ve found to the Chinese parts that have a worm gear is the metal in the forging is lower quality and you strip the worm gear if you use an impact. The higher quality ones you can use an impact to go through more faster. We are talking $100 vs $600 though.

If you YouTube 7.3 idi carrier bearing it should come up
 

Cant Write

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@hacked89 thanks!

I have a ball joint press and also a big bench Vice. Ujoints aren’t the scary part.

the tail shaft bushing is what has me concerned, but sounds like drop the tail shaft housing and R&R a bushing.

I’ll check your video. Appreciate it
 

Rdnck84_03

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I have never actually changed one of those bushings. A quick Google search pulls up several videos. It doesn't look difficult.

James
 

Cant Write

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So maybe it’s best to change the ujoints, and if I still have the vibes above 70, and what feels like lots of play. I’ll tackle the bushing.

Thanks all!!
 

Black dawg

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If the u joints are not loose, and move freely by hand (with d shaft out) they are not causing a vibration.
 

Old Goat

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I am not sure what the press you are referencing is.
You must be registered for see images attach

The one I have is otc brand but same set.
I have done many with a vice and sockets also.

There shouldn't be very much play in that yoke. It should slide freely but shouldn't have any noticeable slop.
If it is worn it should only be the yoke as the output shaft is hardened.

James
I use that same tool. I clamp it in the Vice, then lay the Drive line on the bench, line things up and push out the caps.

here a couple videos I saved off YT, but there are others also.
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Here is a chart showing the Torque settings.



Goat
 

Rdnck84_03

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I use that same tool. I clamp it in the Vice, then lay the Drive line on the bench, line things up and push out the caps.
I have used a lot of different methods over the years, but that ball joint press is now my go to tool for u-joints.
I clamp my drive shaft in the pipe vice, then lay the body of the clamp on the drive shaft so all I have to do is line up the hole and jack screw. It gets heavy fast if you try to hold the whole thing up very long.

James
 

Cant Write

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Stopped by Aatco, owner is respected here in town I guess. Said joints feel tight to him. Yoke play felt normal. Said maybe the joints are seized. And does not have a way to check run-out balance.

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Found them at Carquest. Napa told me they don’t carry much spicer anymore.

They took me for a ride, $45/ea. That seemed really high as RA was $25 + shipping
 
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