Turbo IDI won't start after engine swap

[genscripter]

I don't think that crack would extend to the interior of the intake, but maybe. I looks like someone torqued the bolt down too much and damaged the bolt hole. I'm sure it's ok as is. If you wanted to fix it cheap, I would chip out any loose metal and replace it with JB weld, but you'd have to be super careful to not let the JB weld pour into the bolt hole. Maybe shore it up with a plastic straw or something. IDK. Have to think about that.

Whenever I had power loss or stalling with my IDI, it was 99% of the time due to low fuel pressure from the lift pump. Once you purge the lines, and you have no leaks, the IP can pull a little on its own to feed the injectors. But if you have air in the system, the darn IP can't suck up anything. The lift pump provides some external fuel pressure to feed the IP when it needs fuel. At idle, it doesn't need much pressure. But at any RPM's, the pressure requirement increases. The way your IP shuts down with some RPM's makes me think you have low fuel pressure and it's starving for fuel when you ham on it. One way to resolve this is to install a pressure gauge on your system between the filter head and IP inlet, but that's kind of tedious.

I eventually gave up last year and bought a dedicated fuel pressure gauge that sits on my dash, just for **** like this. Knowing that I have pressure solves a lot of unknowns when trying to diagnose a cranking, idling, or performance issue.

 

[genscripter]

I forgot to mention, it could be due to air infiltration too, but I'd expect you to lose your prime or have harder starting if it sat overnight.

 

[kickdheney]

Yea the guy who pulled the engine out used one bolt on a chain instead of the eye hooks put to much pressure on it and broke it. I have a spare but I didn't think it was to much of an issue. So what do u think? should I just install the e electric pump?

 

[kickdheney]

Facet e pump is on order should be here tomorrow.

 

[Thewespaul]

That will be a significant boost leak once you get it running

 

[genscripter]

That will be a significant boost leak once you get it running

Do you think so? I don't think the fracture infiltrated the inside of the intake. I could be wrong (obviously i am not seeing it person), but it looks like just a fracture to the bolt hole housing.

Maybe the OP should pull the bolt and shine a light down in the hole. See where this crack leads...

If he gets it running, he could apply some soapy solution on the spot to see if any boost is leaking (as long as he has positive pressure).

 

[kickdheney]

So just to be clear I need to put a fuel gauge on this hard line going from the filter to the IP

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[genscripter]

hmmm. I long ago removed my hard lines. I run an R&D IDI IP inlet elbow (on his website), and a rubber hose from my filter to the IP inlet. That made it easy to tee in a fuel pressure sensor.

as for your metal line, I'm not sure how you can run a fuel pressure sensor on that.

 

[Thewespaul]

Remove one of the sensors on the factory filter head. They are all 1/8” npt. Most gauges are 1/8” or 1/4” npt

 

[kickdheney]

I just had to heat up the glow plugs and give it some throttle in order to start it up this morning so I'm assuming it didn't lose its prime? I got a couple ideas I'm going to start hooking up clear lines pretty much all over the place so I can see where the air is coming from I'm just coming back from the Harbor fright I got a fuel pump tester and a couple other things to figure out what this problem is. I'm going to cut this Hardline put a t in the middle put clear hose on either side clamp it so that I can see if there's air along with the fuel pressure I'm also going to put clear hoses on the return lines and the line meeting from the tank to the lift pump so that I can get a visual of everything.

 

[kickdheney]

Custom

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[genscripter]

That's basically exactly what I did with my diesel pressure gauge, but I didn't have to cut my metal line (because I'm running rubber from my Stage 1 filter setup on the rail to my IP) My gauge sits on the dash, linked with a small nylon hose tee'd in like you have it. I ordered an electric sensor so I don't have to worry about the nylon leaking on my dash some day in the future.

Something tells me that once you rev up your truck, your fuel pressure will drop to zero. Basically, any pressure is ok for running, just as long as the fuel pressure up to the IP inlet is greater than zero, that means it's getting some fuel. If the IP needs more fuel (like at higher RPM's), then the pressure will drop. If it hits zero, that means the IP is sucking and that's were fuel starvation can occur.

Another thing is if you have air intrusion, your clear lines will help out a lot with that. I used to run a clear line on my jetta TDI, but I never could figure out how to seal it up without leaking. I ordered some diesel-resistant clear hose from Mcmaster (most clear hoses are not long-term diesel resistant), but it was so rigid that it never really conformed to the hose bibs or radii of the metal lines. I ended up scrapping the concept, but for testing like this, it should do really well.

 

[kickdheney]

All right I've got everything set up with a fuel gauge got it all primed over which was a lot easier because I bled all the air out with the brake bleeder threw the tee . It fired right up just like before had to give it a little throttle died like before but it read 4 PSI throughout the entire process and never dropped. after it died the fuel pressure slowly went down. there is no air intrusion leading up to the IP that I can see. I didn't see any fuel going out of the return line on the injection pump

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[Thewespaul]

Fill your fuel filter with atf and fire the truck up until you hear the sound change then shut it off. Let it set with the atf in the pump overnight then try again.

 

[Macrobb]

Ok, yeah, sticky IP governor. Try the ATF thing. If it doesn't work, it's possible to adjust the "guide stud" at the back of the IP in, which will increase the "pick up" of the governor. It's not something you really want to mess with, but if all else fails and the alternative is a new IP... you don't have much to lose.

ATF trick first. That's your best bet.