Turbo IDI won't start after engine swap

[genscripter]

Wait. Before you do anything, check the hose on top of the IP that goes to the return tee. Can you blow thru that? I just realized that the return diesel that you showed in your video might be just from the return on the injectors. You still need the return on the IP to be clear as well. Also, check the fitting on the top of the IP to make sure that is free from gunk or obstructions, but since you swapped the IP's, I doubt the fitting on top of both is clogged.

 

[kickdheney]

I checked all parts of the return lines I think before and after the t the fittings on the top of the pump pretty much everywhere it seems obstruction free. I ran a line straight from the injection pump into a gas can and still nothing.

 

[genscripter]

I'd suggest checking your timing, but you aren't getting massive smoke so I doubt it's that. This is really confounding. Maybe some of the other IDI guys can chime in with more ideas. Does it starve for power if you remove your air filter?

 

[kickdheney]

79 Jasper right on the money I'm losing power to my shut off solenoid every time I push in the clutch I have a video coming soon any ideas guys? I'm also not getting power to the other two solenoids with the key turned. I must have crossed something over without knowing it... **** I hate electrical...

 

[Thewespaul]

Could be your clutch switch is wired wrong.

 

[kickdheney]

Does anybody have a wiring diagram? Is there supposed to be power to all three wires on the injection pump at all times when the key is on?

 

[genscripter]

79 Jasper right on the money I'm losing power to my shut off solenoid every time I push in the clutch I have a video coming soon any ideas guys? I'm also not getting power to the other two solenoids with the key turned. I must have crossed something over without knowing it... **** I hate electrical...

wow. I never would have guessed that. You could run a wire from the battery and manual switch to the FSS (like in my engine stand video) just so you can run it for now. As for the two other leads on the IP, one connects to your coolant temp sensor switch (usually mounted on the front top of your passenger side cylinder head. You can unplug either the lead on the IP or the switch sensor because it controls the cold fast idle If you don't need cold fast idle, then it's not necessary. I havent been using mine for years because my coolant temp sensor (and my spare) hasn't worked since I bought it. The other one. The other is the cold timing advance, and I suspect its not crucial for your scenario either. Basically, all you need is 12v to the FSS. You could hardwire it for now on a switch and work out your clutch wiring later, knowing that you have the engine good to go.

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[kickdheney]

All right after Chasing the wiring down I figured out the problem. When the guy put in the manual glow plug controller switch he left the wire too close to the clutch pedal and when you engage the clutch the spring pinched the wire cutting off power to the fuel shut off solenoid. Moved the wire everything's good. I have it over at the muffler shop now having the up pipe put in. A big thanks to genscripter, thewespaul, and 79jasper for their consistent help and to everyone else who helped me get the old beast up and running again. I'll keep you posted on any updates.

 

[genscripter]

Good to hear you got it all running.

Coincidentally today, I was looking for the thread size of the VC bolts and I stumbled upon this post from a decade ago:

http://intellidog.com/dieselmann/idi2.htm

He discusses this in a section titled: Engine stalls at stops or when deprsessing clutch

"Stalls returning to idle after snapping throttle open. Injection pump problem caused by poor quality or contaminated fuel. Check for presence of water in the fuel--removal of the injection pump governer cover may be necessary to find contamination, but is not advisable unless you have experience. Check idle speed setting and injection pump timing, as well as cold timing advance--timing should advance at least 2 degrees with 12 volts applied to the rear solenoid terminal. Adding Stanadyne's All Season Diesel Fuel Conditioner may cure this problem, but if it persists, or if there is no cold advance, replace the injection pump. Recommend that the Stanadyne All Season Fuel Conditioner be used periodically to prolong injection pump life."
​

Since you have already solved your problem this is kind of not important, but if someone reading this thread in the future ran into a similar clutch issue, this link might be interesting.

 

[79jasper]

Oh we've seen plenty of those also. Lol
But I had a sneaking suspicion.

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