Turbo IDI won't start after engine swap

icanfixall

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That is a steel line like most ford trucks have running across the frame under the engine. There are supposed to be plastic clamps in the frame to hold that line so it wont rub like yours has....
 

kickdheney

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That is a steel line like most ford trucks have running across the frame under the engine. There are supposed to be plastic clamps in the frame to hold that line so it wont rub like yours has....
for some reason this truck has a rubber hose where these two steel lines meet
 

genscripter

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for some reason this truck has a rubber hose where these two steel lines meet

I'm thinking the PO replaced the lines with rubber. Like I said, I have a van, so mine are metal up to the lift pump and cross at the cross member on the frame rail. So I don't know how the truck does it, but I'd assume they are metal stock.

Kinda sketchy. I never trust what a PO did. I'd recommend either finding stock metal replacements, or running your own rubber lines from the tank or from a spot you know gets unrestricted fuel, so you have a good baseline. Fuel hose is cheap and can be purchased at any parts store.
 

kickdheney

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Kinda sketchy. I never trust what a PO did. I'd recommend either finding stock metal replacements, or running your own rubber lines from the tank or from a spot you know gets unrestricted fuel, so you have a good baseline. Fuel hose is cheap and can be purchased at any parts store.

Yea i guess ill go ahead and replace the fuel lines. Im still having a hell of a time getting it started. I got fuel coming out the schrader and fuel is dribbling out of the injector lines. Still no start. I can feel im getting close tough... i hope lol. When fuel comes out of the schrader while cranking should it take a couple pumps to spew out. Takes two or 3 to clear the air from the schrader and then it starts pouring out. Or should it be instantaneous?
 

genscripter

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If you are getting fuel spraying out of the schrader valve, that is a great sign. I would expect it to delay for a few seconds since it might take a moment for the lift pump to build up flow.

If you are getting fuel leaking out of the injector lines, then tighten them down as soon as you see fuel. When I crack lines, I keep a dry paper towel handy. As I see fuel, I wipe it down until I see a decent amount of diesel dribbling out of the cracks, then use a 5/8" wrench to tighten it down right away. that way I know the air is completely out of the line.

Not all the lines will dribble at the same time (some will purge faster than the others). Eventually after about 4 or 5 lines are purged and tightened down, the engine will start to sputter. give her a lot of throttle. You might get it started then, and once it does start, it might run a little odd until you can tighten the remaining injector lines down. Once they are all tight, make sure to keep the RPM's up so you can work out any remaining bubbles in the lines through the injectors.

As long as you have decent batteries and fuel at the injectors, then you should be close to getting it started. Post a video of your progress so we can see how it goes.
 

kickdheney

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I've been doing this alone and just bridging the solenoid is that okay? If the key is in the on position will it start? Should I have all the lines open and close them as i go? Leaving Lines open That Have Not been fully purged in between crankings. Or do i have to make sure the lines are closed before I stop cranking to ensure air doesn't make its way back in?
 
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genscripter

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If you have diesel dribbling out, definitely that injector line down. If you leave them unconnected, the air will work its way back up the line.
 

kickdheney

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Haha I literally just got done watching that video. So it really doesn't matter till fuel is coming out but after you get a dribble you need to close the lines while it's cranking. Perfect.
 

kickdheney

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Feels like it is trying to turn over a little bit when i hit the glow plugs

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