Trade trucks?

Old Goat

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I just checked the tires again and they are 10 ply and at 80 psi. per the sidewall specs.
Would it be safe to run them at 30 psi?
Maybe my Christmas bonus will be going to new tires.
Why spend money on new tires if you are going to dump it?

Look at the date code on the side walls, that will tell you how old they are. Are the side wall cracked?

Don`t spend the loot on tires with a lesser ply rating to have a softer ride.
You are looking at least $500 for new tires.

You have it in your mind to get rid of it, and if you are talked into keeping it, you still have the dis like for it.


80 PSI yeah they will ride harder, that is for when loaded and max weight they hold.
Think I have fronts 65lbs and rear at 50.

As little as you drive it, lowering the pressure won`t hurt anything.


Goat
 

The_Josh_Bear

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I just checked the tires again and they are 10 ply and at 80 psi. per the sidewall specs.
Would it be safe to run them at 30 psi?
Maybe my Christmas bonus will be going to new tires.
Just to clarify, I can run 30psi because my tires are a little taller (33" vs 31") and MUCH wider than stock(about 22%). This just creates more area for the same weight of the truck to rest on, so to keep the tread wear even I found 30psi to work very well. You can't get away with that on stock tires, BUT you should not be running at 80 psi either for proper tire wear.

So the good news is that you can go outside any time and drop that down to 55 or 50 psi up front, 35ish unloaded in the rear.

Many people here will not like my advice, but the average driver doesn't understand tire pressure worth a can of beans. 80 is for MAX LOAD on E rated tires. This is generally around 3,000lbs per tire. And a 4x4 IDI has a little under 4,000lbs over the front axle, so we never have to run 80PSI up front unless you have a MONSTER cab-over camper loaded. (Quite frankly that would be illegal in an F-250 anyway.)
So it's totally acceptable to run lower pressures that allow good tire wear. The average 4x4 IDI has about 3800lbs front and 2000lbs rear.
Hope this helps, and that you get what works best for you and the family. I hated stock tires at higher pressures and I've been really pleased with the ride on these bigger, softer tires. It does feel kinda squishy cornering hard but some of that was the mud tires I had. Now I have AT's up front and it's better. But will always be more squishy at lower PSI than stockers ever thought about.
 

franklin2

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Whatever you do, I would hold off and see what the economy does next year. All signs say it's going to take a dump and be really bad. So you might not want to make any large financial decisions for awhile. If it really does take a dump, there may be some good deals afterward for anyone who has any money left.
 

WrenchWhore

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Before you unload her I'd definitely give the tire pressure adjustment a go. Lots of 2000 era trucks had "softer ride" tire pressures for when you're unloaded. Heck, i've even seen some cars like that. My 1991 Volvo turbo wagon w/3rd row reverse seating was like that (29 front/rear and the higher pressure was 35 front/42 rear I think) I agree these trucks can ride bumpy when unloaded so usually my formula is run the tire pressure down to something like 25-27 PSI rear and maybe 30-40 in the front. I'd also recommend filling the rear tank full of fuel and mainly running the saddle tank using the rear like a boat ballast. Pulling leafs out of the rear is a great idea as well. My truck originally had a service bed on the back and it had a bunch of extra leaves in the pack that weren't necessary for my needs. Now it's back to something like 4 leafs.

If after you do this and maybe add some sound deadening to the floor and you're not satisfied i'd look into a manual 4x4 F-150 with the FI 300-6 cylinder or small block.
 
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Nero

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Just to toss it out there, even my 1988 samurai has two pressures listed, for loaded and unloaded :joker:
 

franklin2

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I do not run my f250 empty. If it's empty or not towing, it sits in the yard. Diesel is too high to go site seeing with the wife in a empty truck.

I guess the liberals are winning. They wanted my stinky polluting diesel off the road and they pretty much have succeeded.
 

Cant Write

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@franklin2 they are just NIMBY’s (not in my back yard)!!

Even though this entire green movement is fueled by fossil fuels. It’s a huge oxymoron. No one in power ever talks conservation of fuel usage. Let’s raise the speed limit while requiring better mpg....let’s quadruple the amount of plug in devices and then cripple the country by mothballing coal and gas plants....

Like you, my stuff stays parked and my VW TDI is my daily. Which is currently equal to a gas car getting 30 mpg due to the price disparity. Irks me to no end.
 

Old Goat

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#1, stay out of debt. Don`t get in over your head with buying a new vehicle even if it does get better mileage. New = higher registration and Insurance,
plus the monthly Payments. In the end what have you paid for that vehicle (if you keep it that long)
when you made the final payment with all the interest?
Sit down a figure out how many days/hrs you have work just to make the payments to drive that new wonderful computer control command module.

Everything we own is paid for, only the monthly bills that come in.
Not every one is in that position I know.
OK Iam retired, but when we were working our vehicles were paid off.

Your decisions are your own, and Iam not trying to criticize what you do or decisions.

But to each their own.Happy New Year.


Goat
 

Brian VT

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My vehicles were bought with cash. My only debt is the mortgage on my house.
I made this thread saying that I might be interested in a truck trade.
Why are you lecturing about debt here?
 

Nero

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I think most people will try to use 'don't go signing a loan for a car' as an arguing point. From my experience when vehicles get to a certain age/miles/maintenance requirements, a lot of folks will just opt to go buy the latest and newest bs because they think 'new car' means 'its flawless'
 

IDIBRONCO

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They think that it's easier. Sometimes, those "easy" payments get pretty hard to make. I was there myself.
 

Brian VT

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I bought this truck 2 years ago and got rid of my "modern" SUV because I don't appreciate having electronics and computers in my vehicles. It's not so much about the money for me as it is the practicality. If I break down I'd like to at least have some chance of getting it home and fixing it without involving a dealer or mechanic.
The best vehicle I ever had was a '64 Ford Falcon. Straight 6, 3 on the tree, manual choke.
But I like having, and often need, a truck. So here I am.
I just didn't know how loud the diesel would be, and how limited the C6 is, and how rough-riding the 3/4 ton would be. But that's on me for not doing more homework and being in a rush to make a change.
I should have been more patient and done more research and maybe got a 1/2 ton with a 300.
But I can live with this.
 
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