Timing cover crank seal problems

[kodiak98400]

Check the run out on the new balancer maybe? the seal will compensate for some though, also the crank nose ok? no run out there maybe its tweaked just a little then at high RPM works the seal out? just guessing here.

I thought about that too, thats why i modified a old balancer i had. Crank nose looks fine, not getting any oil on the front side of the balancer only behind it. Im going to put a indicator on the crank and check for runout there.

 

[Tumbleweed210]

The blow-by seems excessive in the video.

If that's excessive...mine must be jus' right for 149K -ish….

Yeah! The Speedi-Sleeve thing... Begs the question, "Why...if its a new Balancer?"

oh, and

"Could it be causing premature wear (of the seal lip) if the tolerance is too tight?"

 

[kodiak98400]

If that's excessive...mine must be jus' right for 149K -ish….

Yeah! The Speedi-Sleeve thing... Begs the question, "Why...if its a new Balancer?"

oh, and

"Could it be causing premature wear (of the seal lip) if the tolerance is too tight?"

It was a old balancer i had that i modified not the new one. When the engine was rebuilt the balancer had a speedy sleeve installed because of wear. I was just trying to duplicate that scenario.

 

[Macrobb]

I'd check the CDR setup first, make sure it's nice and clean, spring isn't broken. Next, make sure your air filter is clean - Think, the purpose of the CDR is to prevent runaway at a high vacuum level(running on fumes). You have a plugged air filter, turbo starts drawing enough of a vacuum to close the cdr... now you've got pressure in the crankcase that can't go anywhere.

Also IDIs produce a ton of blowby normally, which goes through the cdr. A brand new engine still does it, due to the ring gaps as designed by international.

 

[kodiak98400]

I'd check the CDR setup first, make sure it's nice and clean, spring isn't broken. Next, make sure your air filter is clean - Think, the purpose of the CDR is to prevent runaway at a high vacuum level(running on fumes). You have a plugged air filter, turbo starts drawing enough of a vacuum to close the cdr... now you've got pressure in the crankcase that can't go anywhere.

Also IDIs produce a ton of blowby normally, which goes through the cdr. A brand new engine still does it, due to the ring gaps as designed by international.

Its got the Banks version of a K&N filter on it. I did clean and re oil it but who knows how restrictive it is. I also replaced the CDR with another used one i had. I'll take the air cleaner off completely and see what happens.( I wont drive it like that , just rev it up in the driveway )

 

[Macrobb]

what would be best is to pickup one of those air filter restriction gauges(they had them on the factory turbo setup); they tell you a lot. Mainly because it won't make anywhere near the vacuum at the intake until you are foot-to-the-floor, 3K RPM running maximum boost. That's where you'll be pulling the most air through the filter.

Another "fix" for your slippery seal coming out is to "seal" it in place with a medium layer of Permatex Right-Stuff. That stuff is the absolute strongest RTV-type compound I've come across, and man does it work. It's strong, resistant to everything but gasoline(and I wonder just how bad it is at resisting that), but it isn't the cheapest. The only thing you have to do is get the surfaces completely clean and dry where it seals.
It's resistant to fluid almost immediately(so you can use it for a water pump or t-case gasket, fill it up and GO), and achieves full strength in a day or so.

 

[ifrythings]

Maybe you have a bad intake gasket? Small leak at idle with a turbo could cause that blow by and at higher rpm with a few pounds of boost could blow out a seal, this would be a leak from intake into lifter valley.

 

[kodiak98400]

what would be best is to pickup one of those air filter restriction gauges(they had them on the factory turbo setup); they tell you a lot. Mainly because it won't make anywhere near the vacuum at the intake until you are foot-to-the-floor, 3K RPM running maximum boost. That's where you'll be pulling the most air through the filter.

Another "fix" for your slippery seal coming out is to "seal" it in place with a medium layer of Permatex Right-Stuff. That stuff is the absolute strongest RTV-type compound I've come across, and man does it work. It's strong, resistant to everything but gasoline(and I wonder just how bad it is at resisting that), but it isn't the cheapest. The only thing you have to do is get the surfaces completely clean and dry where it seals.
It's resistant to fluid almost immediately(so you can use it for a water pump or t-case gasket, fill it up and GO), and achieves full strength in a day or so.

Good to know about the Permatex Right Stuff. I'll give that a try. I'm sure once i figure out whats causing the high crankcase pressure the seal will stay in place. I may have one of those air filter restriction gauges off a ATS turbo in my shop.

 

[kodiak98400]

Maybe you have a bad intake gasket? Small leak at idle with a turbo could cause that blow by and at higher rpm with a few pounds of boost could blow out a seal, this would be a leak from intake into lifter valley.

I'v had a couple intake bolts off more than once fixing the turbo oil return leak at the valley pan.

 

[TahoeTom]

Maybe not your issue, but RTV is needed behind the washer/bolt to prevent oil leaking past the keyway.