Rear Main Seal Questions

[Lumberjackchuck]

Hi Lumberjackchuck, so from your post 2 you say it is the drain for the valley pan from the TOP SURFACE of the pan? So anything that dribbles like from the injector pump, would run down the pan and out that opening? If that is the case, then now I understand how the back of the head gets wet and greasy. Is that correct?

Yes, from the top surface of the pan. The pan can fill up with oil easily if your grommet for your turbo pedestal is leaking (if you have a turbo motor). Possibly some from CDR if you have an NA too. And yeah any fuel dribbling out of injector lines and return caps will pool there and drain out the back.

This square hole drains to that spot.

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[Sparks-IDI]

LumberJackChuck, Thank you for identifying for me what that opening lead to. It explains a lot to me now. Your engine looks fantastic. I really like the red color.

 

[Black dawg]

For future reference, fel pro bs40697 comes with a wear sleeve.

 

[THSIM9]

Going to revive this thread and add a new question. I just installed a new rear main and upon inspection it looks like the edge of the seal rolled while it was going on. I did not have to fight it or do anything extreme to get it on. I just lined it up, got it started over the crank and then put the bolts in the plate to get it fully seated. This looks like an obvious leak to me, I’m curious on other people’s opinions. At this point the plan is to buy a new seal and try again. Any tricks to ensure this doesn’t happen again?

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[TahoeTom]

The manual says to use a seal protector over the crank end when installing the rear cover and coat the seal lip with a thin film of oil. I used a large yogurt container cut down. After the plate is in position remove the seal protector. Be sure to use plenty of RTV in the corners of the oil pan. Manual says 1/4" in corners. You can get an idea of the gap by placing the cover in place without seal. I scanned a copy of the page but I can't seem to find it to attach.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

At this point the plan is to buy a new seal and try again.

That's the best plan.

and coat the seal lip with a thin film of oil.

Nope. Not on this type of seal. You can see in the picture that it says "install dry" right on the seal. Do not put any type of lubrication on these seals. They come with their own installation sleeve.

 

[WrenchWhore]

The rear main seal kit I got from Rockauto came with a clear plastic sleeve for install. It has a slight taper.

 

[WrenchWhore]

I feel like I just opened a can of worms. Just pulled mine and found out I have a repair sleeve installed already. Looks to be in decent shape to reuse (the Sleeve) and the seal itself wasn't leaking just the pan. I held the new seal I bought up to the Navistar seal and it seems way off to me. Am I overthinking this? I cross referenced the part number Navistar (1816559 C91) Cant seem to find them. Would/should a rear seal that comes with a repair sleeve work? I'm worried since this sleeve installed looks thick compared to some thinner repair sleeves.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Yours is only the second one of those thick sleeves that I've seen. My engine had the first. I can't answer on the seal working. After my overhaul, I left the sleeve on. The seals leaked both before and after I replaced the sleeve with a normal thin one. This summer, I'm going to try one of the install dry types and see what that does.

 

[WrenchWhore]

@IDIBRONCO Was your engine a former U-Haul truck as well? I'm trying to make a decision on what to do with whats available. Theres got to be a cross reference part number for the Navistar right? I just went outside to put the rear seal plate/seal back on and it slides right on no issues. Man if I could only locate another Navistart seal. I don't want to do it but im tempted to just run it BUT I have a manual so that's sketchy as all hell on my basically brand new clutch.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I don't believe so. I was told that it was out of a 1992 pickup. Come to think of it, it probably was. There was part of a serpentine belt set up on the engine when I bought it. It was supposed to have 100,000 miles on a rebuild. It also came with most of my first gen Banks turbo set up too.

 

[Old Goat]

I feel like I just opened a can of worms. Just pulled mine and found out I have a repair sleeve installed already. Looks to be in decent shape to reuse (the Sleeve) and the seal itself wasn't leaking just the pan. I held the new seal I bought up to the Navistar seal and it seems way off to me. Am I overthinking this? I cross referenced the part number Navistar (1816559 C91) Cant seem to find them. Would/should a rear seal that comes with a repair sleeve work? I'm worried since this sleeve installed looks thick compared to some thinner repair sleeves.

I Googled the IHC Part #, and this site shows it as fitting a T444e. That`s a PS Correct? Looks like a Mexican site...

Producto Reten Trasero De Cigueñal Navistar, 7.3l, T444e FP-1816559C91

tradesa.mx

I came across this NOS OEM Ford part and tried to get it to work. Comes with the Speedy Ring for the Crank. Followed the directions etc... and got the Sleeve on part way. Fiddling with it the seal came off. finally tapped the Speedy ring on, but could not get the seal back on.

F2TZ-6701-A F2TZ6701A Genuine Ford Part

Ford part # F2TZ-6701-A F2TZ6701A, Base part # 6701, $51.50 online at FordPartsGiant.com. Wholesale-priced and fast-delivered Ford parts Seal Assy - Crankshaft Oil.

www.fordpartsgiant.com

2 on E-Bay, one w/o the locating pins and the other with 3.


Finally bought a Felpro rear Main Seal from O`Reallys. It also comes with the new paper gasket for the rear plate. You cannot find just the paper gasket anywhere.

Hacked89 did have a YT Vid on installing the rear main. he must have taken it down.
I watched it several times before I got it locked in between the ears...

Be sure to clean off the corners of the Oil Pan really well. Place a thick pile of RTV in each corner and the dip in the pan. Used "Right Stuff" black.

Put a thin layer of RTV on the back side of the Plate for the paper gasket to hold it in place, and a bit on the front side of it.
I also had pressed in the new Main Seal into the plate.

Do not put any oil on the Crank or on the rubber seal. Install dry.
Put the plate up to the crank at an angle like you are trying to shove it into the dip in the oil pan hole. get the rubber seal over the crank, and slowly work it on each side as you slowly tip the plate (keeping the bottom in) up. and suddenly it is on. Then install the 6 or so bolts in the plate.

As I remember there is one locating pin on ea lower side.

This one of the treads I read through of many.

Correct way to do rear main?

I've evidently boogered a rear main install twice now, both failing in similar fashions. They both stay dry for about a month of regular driving and then progress to serious drips. Yes I used thread sealer on the bolts to the flexplate. I'm thinking I have the seal plate slightly off center...

www.oilburners.net

I picked up one of these Rotunda Ford rear seal press blocks. Puts it in the right depth.
Can`t find it now, but there is a diagram in a Ford shop manual on how to make the in shop press block. Basically a 12" square piece of wood, with 3 small blocks at 12 - 4 & 8 to keep the plate from being bent etc...
when pressing it in.

FORD ROTUNDA OTC TOOL T83T-6701-A 6.9L DIESEL REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL REPLACER | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for FORD ROTUNDA OTC TOOL T83T-6701-A 6.9L DIESEL REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL REPLACER at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

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Goat

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I Googled the IHC Part #, and this site shows it as fitting a T444e. That`s a PS Correct?

Yes that's right.

 

[TahoeTom]

I am pretty sure the OEM Navistar seal kit containing a sleeve has a thicker sleeve than the Speedy Sleeve. That kit has an installation tool and the rear cover isn't removed. I installed that kit and after it still leaked I realized as the OP that my leak was at the oil pan corners. SKF has a seal that works if the OEM sleeve is in place. I bought it on Rock Auto. I just checked and SKF #38649 is used with OEM sleeve. SKF#37405 is used without OEM sleeve.

 

[WrenchWhore]

I don't believe so. I was told that it was out of a 1992 pickup. Come to think of it, it probably was. There was part of a serpentine belt set up on the engine when I bought it. It was supposed to have 100,000 miles on a rebuild. It also came with most of my first gen Banks turbo set up too.

Something else I noticed is RockAuto says:

SKF 38649 Info
Rear; w/O.E.M. Ring

What is O.E.M. Ring? Could this be the thicker ring maybe added to late model engines as a wear item?

Mine is at least a 1992 and newer as it has the serpentine belt setup. I was trying to figure out the block stamping but like others have said it looks like the "New Guy" did the stamps. I had the first gen Banks kit on my first 6.9 IDI. It was great to me I just didn't like how much it covered the top of the engine for maintenance reasons but overall never gave me issues.

I ended up ordering the Felpro seal with repair sleeve. Going to see if the seal is any better.