"Tank" my 91 Crew Cab Dually

chillman88

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Relating to grounds and dual batteries does no one hook them up correctly for parallel batteries (hot from passenger side with existing wire, ground only from drivers side with both neg cables in series to starter, rest of loads to fender solenoid (of course jumper to solenoid from starter or pass side + and from center ground point to ground on starter). This ensures both batteries share all loads equally if battery to battery wires same gauge. No more one battery hidden failing and dragging other down until they both fail. No more differences between battery voltage loaded or not. Works for high current ebike batteries which are sensitive in parallel situations so should work here. Will let you know after I finish crimping and moving mine.

I didn't fuss over anything, I just hooked them up the way the factory did. You make a good point though.
 

chillman88

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Don't you just love it when you have problems that are entirely your fault, and you can't blame anyone else for it no matter how hard you'd like to?

Replaced my driver side parking brake cable last Saturday. Had to loosen the equalizer. Marked the adjustment, and re-tightened to the same spot.... Never considering the old cables would have been stretched some.....

Drove to town and noticed they were dragging, decided to go anyway....

Loosened the equalizer to whatever felt about right when I got home, Didn't TEST drive it, just drove it into work the next day. Better, but still dragging.......

Pulled it completely out of the adjuster on Wednesday, the cable I installed two years ago is stuck! Ordered a new one. Went to change it today........

The cable didn't rust like I expected... The brakes got so HOT the plastic sheath over the cable MELTED. The cable is MELTED TOGETHER is why it's stuck! I'm really hoping I didn't fry the new cable on the drivers side, Either way, lesson learned.

I planned on replacing the shoes because they had been dragging, didn't plan on the hardware kit. That changed when I saw how bad everything was inside. Pretty sure the springs got hot enough to lose some tension, they're only about a year old.

Good thing I decided to get pads anyway!!!

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Therkhan7_3Turbo

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Drum brakes are the devils work I swear.

Does your truck have a posi rear end ? I hope it didn't hurt that too, my Expeditions parking brake assembly got stuck and caused some issues, prior to getting stuck turning I didn't have the rear axle drag and pop, but after it was really mad even after a fluid change and new friction modifier.
 

saburai

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Don't you just love it when you have problems that are entirely your fault, and you can't blame anyone else for it no matter how hard you'd like to?

Replaced my driver side parking brake cable last Saturday. Had to loosen the equalizer. Marked the adjustment, and re-tightened to the same spot.... Never considering the old cables would have been stretched some.....

Drove to town and noticed they were dragging, decided to go anyway....

Loosened the equalizer to whatever felt about right when I got home, Didn't TEST drive it, just drove it into work the next day. Better, but still dragging.......

Pulled it completely out of the adjuster on Wednesday, the cable I installed two years ago is stuck! Ordered a new one. Went to change it today........

The cable didn't rust like I expected... The brakes got so HOT the plastic sheath over the cable MELTED. The cable is MELTED TOGETHER is why it's stuck! I'm really hoping I didn't fry the new cable on the drivers side, Either way, lesson learned.

I planned on replacing the shoes because they had been dragging, didn't plan on the hardware kit. That changed when I saw how bad everything was inside. Pretty sure the springs got hot enough to lose some tension, they're only about a year old.

Good thing I decided to get pads anyway!!!

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Looking at that and based on how the pads looked when we did the fronts on Raylan, I'm thinking that I should pull the drums and replace the shoes if not the wheel cylinders and everything else too...
 

chillman88

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@Therkhan7_3Turbo Nope no posi here, just a good old one wheel peel (or two since it's a Dually haha)

Looking at that and based on how the pads looked when we did the fronts on Raylan, I'm thinking that I should pull the drums and replace the shoes if not the wheel cylinders and everything else too...

Yep this is a long story but I'll try to shorten it. A year or two ago I was going to do the rear brakes completely (after my front calipers locked up). Did passenger side (wheel cylinder and all) and cleaned up for the night. Didn't get back to it for a couple weeks, axle seal sprung a leak so I fixed it and used the other new pads on that side again. After that, I had to replace the seal on the driver's side but didn't have new pads so I left them after I sprayed them with brake cleaner and scrubbed them lightly with a wire brush to break the glaze. That was at least a year ago and several thousand miles.

The way I see it, as bad as your calipers were, your wheel cylinders can't be too great either. Might as well take care of them before they become a problem.
 

chillman88

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Here's the old cable. You can see the small bits of plastic that had melted if you look close.

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It had laid against the exhaust at some point, I guess it was going to have to be replaced soon either way.

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Well I got my new cable today and new springs. Got all the shoes and hardware replaced. Finally replaced the drivers side wheel cylinder too, good thing because it started leaking.

I don't think I'll ever bother replacing the adjuster hardware again, everything all lubed up and they don't work at all. A little upset I bothered spending the money but at least it's all new. I might try a Motorcraft adjuster arm at some point in case they're better quality.

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I started to adjust the brake cables but it seems there's a different amount of spring pressure between the two brands. I ordered another one from the same place as the passenger side and my wife is going to stop and grab it on her way home tonight. I didn't like the looks or fitment of the Raybestos brand I ordered from RockAuto anyway, if this one fits better it'll be worth the extra $15 anyway.
 

chillman88

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Guess I never finished huh lol

Got everything adjusted as close as I dared. Parking brake holds under power forward and resists under power in reverse. Close enough for me.

It has brakes now but... Not great. I replaced the power steering pump with a known good one I picked up from Wes. I'm hoping that helps (I have hydroboost) the steering hasn't been great either lately.

I decided to let the new wheel cylinder gravity bleed a little bit more. So killing time I look around, I think I finally found the clunk that has been driving me nuts for a couple years. I had heard about a fiber washer on the fender but someone said that was only on the 92+ style. Well it's not! Finally located the evidence!

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Here's the culprit:
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Pulled out the fender bolts, coated them in some never seize, slipped some gasket material in there, cut the holes out and tightened it back down.

I used this silicone gasket stuff. We were throwing out several rolls at work. I've been using it under gas tank straps and anywhere else I think might need it.

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Here you can see it all tucked up in there. It's adhesive but I knew it wouldn't slip in there unless I pulled the fender off so I just left the backing paper on it.

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Selahdoor

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Guess I never finished huh lol

Got everything adjusted as close as I dared. Parking brake holds under power forward and resists under power in reverse. Close enough for me.

It has brakes now but... Not great. I replaced the power steering pump with a known good one I picked up from Wes. I'm hoping that helps (I have hydroboost) the steering hasn't been great either lately.

I decided to let the new wheel cylinder gravity bleed a little bit more. So killing time I look around, I think I finally found the clunk that has been driving me nuts for a couple years. I had heard about a fiber washer on the fender but someone said that was only on the 92+ style. Well it's not! Finally located the evidence!

You must be registered for see images attach


Here's the culprit:
You must be registered for see images attach


Pulled out the fender bolts, coated them in some never seize, slipped some gasket material in there, cut the holes out and tightened it back down.

I used this silicone gasket stuff. We were throwing out several rolls at work. I've been using it under gas tank straps and anywhere else I think might need it.

You must be registered for see images attach


Here you can see it all tucked up in there. It's adhesive but I knew it wouldn't slip in there unless I pulled the fender off so I just left the backing paper on it.

You must be registered for see images attach
Perfect! I WANT some! lol :D
 

chillman88

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Well it might not seem like much, but it's a milestone for me. Finally got an axle under the 4x4 frame I picked up from @Thewespaul. I parted out an old F350 plow truck for the axles. They'll eventually go under "Hulk" but they're perfect for moving this thing around while I start working on it.

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I have to get the shackle bolts out of the front axle, and order some shackles (unless someone here has some good used ones cheap). Then I can get it moved around and start stripping it for paint. Yes I'm slow, but at least I can finally start LOL
 

Thewespaul

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Well it might not seem like much, but it's a milestone for me. Finally got an axle under the 4x4 frame I picked up from @Thewespaul. I parted out an old F350 plow truck for the axles. They'll eventually go under "Hulk" but they're perfect for moving this thing around while I start working on it.

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I have to get the shackle bolts out of the front axle, and order some shackles (unless someone here has some good used ones cheap). Then I can get it moved around and start stripping it for paint. Yes I'm slow, but at least I can finally start LOL
More progress than has been done to my IDI in the last five months! Good to see it going to use for you.
 

saburai

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Well it might not seem like much, but it's a milestone for me. Finally got an axle under the 4x4 frame I picked up from @Thewespaul. I parted out an old F350 plow truck for the axles. They'll eventually go under "Hulk" but they're perfect for moving this thing around while I start working on it.

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I have to get the shackle bolts out of the front axle, and order some shackles (unless someone here has some good used ones cheap). Then I can get it moved around and start stripping it for paint. Yes I'm slow, but at least I can finally start LOL

Way to go Chris! It's almost finished:Thumbs Up:):rolleyes:
 

chillman88

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Took advantage of the nice weather yesterday and got the front axle under it. I had just lopped off the hangers to get it off the parts truck, good thing too. Took a minute with the 3/4" impact to remove the first nut and bolt. Took 20 minutes to get the second one off. The last two took about 1-2 hours EACH by the time I got them hacked off and beat out with the air hammer. Had to go back and forth several times to get them out using penetrating oil the whole time. Got some 9/16x5 grade 8 bolts at Fastenal for the rear of the leafs.

It's finally semi-mobile!
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Now I just have to track down that piece that is supposed to be riveted to the frame around the shackles and order a pair of shackles.

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I'm probably going to have to cut the box off the frame. Looks like someone tried welding it to the frame at some point. :idiot: No doubt this truck had been beat on HARD by the shape the box is in.

I'm likely going to have to track down a 4x4 ZF5 crossmember unless my 2wd one will work? Just noticed today the new frame doesn't have one.
 
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