"Tank" my 91 Crew Cab Dually

chillman88

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Ideally I'd like to just buy this and adapt the downpipe.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DN1HIS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_wSIrDbK6XBM91

I know aluminized is cheaper but I also know the last aluminized exhaust I installed lasted a whopping 3 years before the muffler literally fell off going down the road. Kinda cuts out all the savings lol.

That being said, with the crossover being around 170 from Russ and still needing an oil feed and a seal kit for the drain grommet and o-rings plus an intake and pyrometer it adds up fast. I may end up just getting it installed for now and cobbing up the exhaust to work. I can always upgrade later.
 

chillman88

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Well after installing a starter that spins over SIGNIFICANTLY faster than the old one, it still didn't really want to start this morning. It cranked and cranked for a while before it finally fired.

Wait to start light works as it should plugs "afterglow" as they should but no "clicking" like a bad plug would cause.

Once it starts it runs fine, no stalling or bucking.

It really acts almost like it's out of fuel at first but once it catches its fine so I don't really expect air intrusion.

I think I'm going to do some digging after work today. If anyone has a suggestion on specifics to look at it would be appreciated. I will probably plug it in for a few hours at some point to see if it makes a difference.

Good news is this single group 31 started the truck this morning. My old batteries would have been drained halfway through.
 

saburai

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Yep I was planning on using the copper RTV. After looking at it I think I'll probably wait to install it until I can afford a new crossover from Russ. It's "usable" but I'll be replacing it in a year or two either way. I didn't honestly expect to find a cheap turbo so soon, I may very well end up waiting to get a full exhaust kit and just do everything all at once. We'll see how it all plays out, all depends on funds.

Wait and get the diamond eye exhaust and imho, get a muffler. It does quiet things down and stops the droning at highway speeds. Wes built a really nice down pipe for me but I think that he'd prefer to have the vehicle in his shop, but it couldn't hurt to ask him... Get a nice crossover, coat it, wrap it and forget about it. Again, imho, rebuilding the turbo is something that anyone who has decent mechanical ability can do. Take your time, clean and careful. Yes, pay your mortgage first... See you soon!
 

Eli

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Well after installing a starter that spins over SIGNIFICANTLY faster than the old one, it still didn't really want to start this morning. It cranked and cranked for a while before it finally fired.

Wait to start light works as it should plugs "afterglow" as they should but no "clicking" like a bad plug would cause.

Once it starts it runs fine, no stalling or bucking.

It really acts almost like it's out of fuel at first but once it catches its fine so I don't really expect air intrusion.

I think I'm going to do some digging after work today. If anyone has a suggestion on specifics to look at it would be appreciated. I will probably plug it in for a few hours at some point to see if it makes a difference.

Good news is this single group 31 started the truck this morning. My old batteries would have been drained halfway through.

Are you trying to start it as soon as the WTS light goes out? On my old truck, I turned on the key, waited for the WTS light to shut off,then turned the key off and counted 20 seconds and did it again - except I started it the second cycle. Worked a LOT better than just trying to start it after a single cycle!
My current truck has a manual button (which I'm not fond of) because, I'm told, the glow plug controller failed. It's on 'the list' of things to repair, but not prioritized.

Eli
 

chillman88

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Are you trying to start it as soon as the WTS light goes out? On my old truck, I turned on the key, waited for the WTS light to shut off,then turned the key off and counted 20 seconds and did it again - except I started it the second cycle. Worked a LOT better than just trying to start it after a single cycle!
My current truck has a manual button (which I'm not fond of) because, I'm told, the glow plug controller failed. It's on 'the list' of things to repair, but not prioritized.

Eli

I always have and it's never been a problem before. I can give it a shot though.
 

laserjock

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Hate to ask this, but have you done a compression test? How many miles are on the engine? Poor compression will cause a hard start regardless of fuel system condition. Faster starter/better glow plugs could mask/ help the situation but that may not be the real problem. I forget.... is this an all of a sudden situation? The core engine I traded in for mine was an absolute bear to start even with everything working pretty well. Gasser compression numbers will do that. It would seemingly run fine once it was running.
 

chillman88

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Well honestly this is a since we changed the injectors issue really. I'm afraid it's likely an IP issue but I don't have any hot start issues.

I haven't done a compression test yet no but I can't imagine that would be it, between how it started happening and the minimal blow by.

I have another IP to try but I have to find a timing meter near me first. Can't swing one at the moment.
 

saburai

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Well honestly this is a since we changed the injectors issue really. I'm afraid it's likely an IP issue but I don't have any hot start issues.

I haven't done a compression test yet no but I can't imagine that would be it, between how it started happening and the minimal blow by.

I have another IP to try but I have to find a timing meter near me first. Can't swing one at the moment.

I've got a Snap-On MT- 257 and a timing light. I'd be happy to bring it up...
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Are you trying to start it as soon as the WTS light goes out? On my old truck, I turned on the key, waited for the WTS light to shut off,then turned the key off and counted 20 seconds and did it again - except I started it the second cycle. Worked a LOT better than just trying to start it after a single cycle!
My current truck has a manual button (which I'm not fond of) because, I'm told, the glow plug controller failed. It's on 'the list' of things to repair, but not prioritized.

Eli
If two cycles works significantly better than one cycle you simply have a couple bad glow plugs. Hope that's the issue... also no need to wait 20 seconds just back to back worked fine for me for years till I finally got off my duffer and fixed it.
 

chillman88

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I've got a Snap-On MT- 257 and a timing light. I'd be happy to bring it up...

That would be great. Even if it's not the pump it'd set my mind at ease to try this other one out. I've had my doubts about this one for a while.

If two cycles works significantly better than one cycle you simply have a couple bad glow plugs. Hope that's the issue... also no need to wait 20 seconds just back to back worked fine for me for years till I finally got off my duffer and fixed it.

Yeah I know. I don't think that's it but I honestly hope it's that simple.
 

Thewespaul

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Since the only thing that changed is the injectors when you noticed the starting issues, it’s got to be either not enough cranking speed, or a fuel delivery issue with the pump. Next time you cold start it, try jumpstarting the truck with another running vehicle and good cables, and see if it improves. If it does, I would lean towards your cranking circuit being your issue. If it acts the same, it’s the pump.
 

chillman88

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Since the only thing that changed is the injectors when you noticed the starting issues, it’s got to be either not enough cranking speed, or a fuel delivery issue with the pump. Next time you cold start it, try jumpstarting the truck with another running vehicle and good cables, and see if it improves. If it does, I would lean towards your cranking circuit being your issue. If it acts the same, it’s the pump.

Precisely my thoughts on the matter.

I recently put a different starter on it with a new group 31 battery. It spins over very quickly but still starts hard, thus my assumption that the pump is the issue.
 

chillman88

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Well as part of installing group 31 batteries I bought a nice new 2/0 ground cable. $25 shipped, looks great. It's a touch short but it'll do. I'll buy one a smidge longer for the driver's side.

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Only problem I had was that someone (from the factory) decided it was a good idea to use a 1/2" mounting point for the battery cables so I had to enlarge the lug on my brand new cable. Still for the price and quality, I have zero complaints.
 

chillman88

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It's very possible that I may have tracked down the culprit finally this morning.

I started paying a little more attention to the WTS light and it's associated sounds. A couple times I thought it might have been a little quieter than normal but didn't REALLY give it much thought.

Today I got in and the WTS light functioned as it should... but very quiet. I cycled the key a few times and could just barely hear the relay click but nothing else, it also shut off quicker than expected.

I cranked a bunch and it finally fired, I went to turn the lights on and no headlights. I started looking around and finally found a power issue.

I have my glowplug relay running from the battery with 4ga wire through a 200 or 250amp fuse (don't remember which). I installed the headlight relay kit with the power feed on this same fuse. When I wiggled the 4ga power cable at the battery my lights finally came on.

I'm really hoping this whole problem has been a bad wire. I'll pick up a new one after work and reply in a few days if there's a change. If my glow plugs haven't been getting sufficient power, that would definitely do it.
 

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