So what did you do with your truck today?

catbird7

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With the manifold, I'd have to drill and tap it. With the pipe, I could drill and weld in a bung. Easier for me to weld than to try to tap it with the engine running - tapping creates chips, welding(the outside shut) does not.
Also, I didn't have pipe taps handy.
X2, I did the same thing (bung in pipe). I'll also add, it's easier to fix a screwed up weld on a piece of exhaust pipe, than a cracked exhaust manifold due to improper thread tapping procedure. Not saying you'd screw-up tapping however it's one of those murphy's law things waiting out there to bite your ****.....
 

saburai

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X2, I did the same thing (bung in pipe). I'll also add, it's easier to fix a screwed up weld on a piece of exhaust pipe, than a cracked exhaust manifold due to improper thread tapping procedure. Not saying you'd screw-up tapping however it's one of those murphy's law things waiting out there to bite your ****.....
I've drilled and tapped a lot of holes.
Measure twice cut once! And if it doesn't feel right, stop and evaluate what is wrong... Slow and steady backing out a quarter turn every turn in or so taking the tap out to thoroughly clean it, making sure nothing gets hot. In my 40 years of turning wrenches, I've never had an issue tapping holes in cast, aluminum, magnesium, hardened steel you name it, thick or thin. If you do it right it's not a problem...
 

catbird7

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I've drilled and tapped a lot of holes.
Measure twice cut once! And if it doesn't feel right, stop and evaluate what is wrong... Slow and steady backing out a quarter turn every turn in or so taking the tap out to thoroughly clean it, making sure nothing gets hot. In my 40 years of turning wrenches, I've never had an issue tapping holes in cast, aluminum, magnesium, hardened steel you name it, thick or thin. If you do it right it's not a problem...
Completely agree! If you possess the ability & confidence to tap in cast iron, the exhaust manifold is the preferred location to read exhaust temp. The confidence level I place on my own abilities says "weld a bung".
 

Macrobb

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I've drilled and tapped a lot of holes.
Measure twice cut once! And if it doesn't feel right, stop and evaluate what is wrong... Slow and steady backing out a quarter turn every turn in or so taking the tap out to thoroughly clean it, making sure nothing gets hot. In my 40 years of turning wrenches, I've never had an issue tapping holes in cast, aluminum, magnesium, hardened steel you name it, thick or thin. If you do it right it's not a problem...
If I had the exhaust manifold out, I'd do it easily. Take it to work, drill, tap and done.

In the vehicle with the engine running? No.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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If I had the exhaust manifold out, I'd do it easily. Take it to work, drill, tap and done.

In the vehicle with the engine running? No.

Food for thought: 5-6 years ago my buddy from church and I were talking pyros(we had both just installed them recently), mine was still N/A at the time but his was a Cummins. He said on the Cummins forums all the guys said to put it in the manifold with the engine running, just like Rob did, but tap it right in, no grease or special treatment. The majority of the chips will blow out and the rest go through the turbo. Apparently nobody had reported any issues and it was normal in that crowd.
 

Macrobb

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Food for thought: 5-6 years ago my buddy from church and I were talking pyros(we had both just installed them recently), mine was still N/A at the time but his was a Cummins. He said on the Cummins forums all the guys said to put it in the manifold with the engine running, just like Rob did, but tap it right in, no grease or special treatment. The majority of the chips will blow out and the rest go through the turbo. Apparently nobody had reported any issues and it was normal in that crowd.
On a cummins, I could see it - exhaust manifold is right there, easy to access. IDI manifolds are much further down the engine, hard to get a good angle to drill on, especially with it shaking(and IDIs are a lot rougher than Cummins, at least *most* IDIs).
 

gandalf

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Today I moved my gauges from a mount, top center of the dashboard, to the A pillar. I got a Glowshift triple gauge mount. The instructions were to mount it on top of the stock/existing trim piece. They made no mention of how to get the wiring to the gauges. With the Glowshift mount in place on the OEM trim there is NO room for wiring between the two. I was going to cut up the OEM< trim piece, using the end sections and the new G'shift piece, so the wiring could get through. Calvin saved me from that, saying to simply cut out a chunk down the center for the wires to come through. It worked perfectly. The G'**** gauge holder is mounted on top of the ORM trim, with the wires coming through the slot on the OEM piece. Pictures to follow.
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Golden Helmet

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Nice, I like it! I bought one of those pods a year ago, but I ran in to issues trying to install it so I put it back on the shelf for a later day. I was planning on just drilling a few holes, but that slot looks like it's much easier to work with.
 

saburai

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On a cummins, I could see it - exhaust manifold is right there, easy to access. IDI manifolds are much further down the engine, hard to get a good angle to drill on, especially with it shaking(and IDIs are a lot rougher than Cummins, at least *most* IDIs).

The way that I did it, on Diego at least, was to drill a 1/8 pilot hole without going all the way through when the engine was not running. I Then followed that up with the appropriate bit size for the tap without penetrating all the way through. I then filled the cavity with heavy grease as well as coated the drill bit. I proceeded by drilling very slowly until all the way through with the engine running. As soon as I penetrated, I removed the drill bit. I should note that I held the RPM at about 1200 to 1500 during penetration. After letting the engine cool, I followed basically the same procedure, coating the tap and the inside of the hole with heavy grease, getting the tap started before starting the engine. I have done similar things on oil systems, exhaust and coolant on many different power plants over the years without issue.
 

saburai

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Nice, I like it! I bought one of those pods a year ago, but I ran in to issues trying to install it so I put it back on the shelf for a later day. I was planning on just drilling a few holes, but that slot looks like it's much easier to work with.
On both of my trucks, I drilled holes and carefully routed 18 gauge wire. it was a bit tedious, but worked. On the new truck I think I may go back and cut the slot, it looks much easier! Thanks Calvin!
 

Zephyr

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FINALLY finished up engine tear down, reseal, rebuilt heads, turbo, injection pump, new BB code injectors, water pump, fuel pump, LUK clutch, glow plug harness and paint. Ready to go back in!
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gandalf

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Today I moved my gauges from a mount, top center of the dashboard, to the A pillar. I got a Glowshift triple gauge mount. The instructions were to mount it on top of the stock/existing trim piece. They made no mention of how to get the wiring to the gauges. With the Glowshift mount in place on the OEM trim there is NO room for wiring between the two. I was going to cut up the OEM< trim piece, using the end sections and the new G'shift piece, so the wiring could get through. Calvin saved me from that, saying to simply cut out a chunk down the center for the wires to come through. It worked perfectly. The G'**** gauge holder is mounted on top of the ORM trim, with the wires coming through the slot on the OEM piece. Pictures to follow.
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I have Isspro gauges. You can see in one of the pictures that the threaded connections on the back are rather long. That's so that the Isspro mounting clamp can be used if you have it mounted on a flat surface. They barely fit, lengthwise, between the G'**** trim and the OEM trim.

Also, I drilled the G'**** trim piece for the mounting screws, running them through both the new and the OEM trim pieces.
 

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