bulletpruf
Full Access Member
So, I surfaced some cylinder heads this weekend in the garage quickly and accurately with some 60 and 80 grit ceramic sandpaper (Don't use box store sandpaper! Get Hercules ceramic sandpaper from Harbor Freight), a feeler gauge, an OEM Tools 2' machinist straightedge, and an inexpensive granite surface plate. Curious whether this will work on IDI heads with the pre-cups, because some machine shops won't surface these heads because of the pre-cups.
Anyway, I used a 12 x 9 x 2 granite surface plate that was about $80 from Amazon, and after I cleaned the machined surface on both heads, I found that one was .0025" warped and the other was .003" warped. Both were within spec of .001" per cylinder (max of .004" per head) but I've been wanting to try this process for a while and I also wanted to give the mating surface a bit more texture to grip the gasket (not using MLS gaskets).
I used 3M's 77 spray adhesive to secure the sandpaper to the block and I used the surface block like a sanding block. I used my straightedge and a black sharpie to draw a grid of diagonal lines to give me a better idea of where I was removing material.
I started with 60 grit, and after a few minutes, when I checked my progress, and I had already taken it down about .001". At that point, I switched to 80 grit to finish it up. I was able to get both heads straight within .0015"; that's the thinnest feeler gauge that I have and it wouldn't go under the straightedge anywhere.
I realize 99% of the folks get this done at the machine shop, but if your machine shop is an hour away, you don't have time to wait in the queue, and/or you just want an excuse to buy more tools and learn a new process, this is worth trying. I was surprised at how easy it was.
I shot a video of the process in case anyone is interested. Mods - please feel free to delete the link if not allowed.
Anyway, I used a 12 x 9 x 2 granite surface plate that was about $80 from Amazon, and after I cleaned the machined surface on both heads, I found that one was .0025" warped and the other was .003" warped. Both were within spec of .001" per cylinder (max of .004" per head) but I've been wanting to try this process for a while and I also wanted to give the mating surface a bit more texture to grip the gasket (not using MLS gaskets).
I used 3M's 77 spray adhesive to secure the sandpaper to the block and I used the surface block like a sanding block. I used my straightedge and a black sharpie to draw a grid of diagonal lines to give me a better idea of where I was removing material.
I started with 60 grit, and after a few minutes, when I checked my progress, and I had already taken it down about .001". At that point, I switched to 80 grit to finish it up. I was able to get both heads straight within .0015"; that's the thinnest feeler gauge that I have and it wouldn't go under the straightedge anywhere.
I realize 99% of the folks get this done at the machine shop, but if your machine shop is an hour away, you don't have time to wait in the queue, and/or you just want an excuse to buy more tools and learn a new process, this is worth trying. I was surprised at how easy it was.
I shot a video of the process in case anyone is interested. Mods - please feel free to delete the link if not allowed.
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