Self oil burning

1mouse3

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I stumbled across something interesting.

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I found it from this post.


There saying that there getting a good burn with diamond cups and that cut in the pistons, where small port one gives a poor burn. I might have to get @IDIBRONCO a barf bag for bringing this up.

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Booyah45828

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Interesting.

I'd have to agree that the proper piston design would lower compression while keeping the crown as near as possible to the deck surface. Not sure that I'd want a piston with the combustion space as wide as that 6.5 design. I think I'd want something more along the lines of stock, but deeper and slightly more rounded, which might not be possible depending on piston thickness.
 

1mouse3

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Not sure there is enough material to go deeper with it and usure how that much of a pocket cut would affect our engines since we have the smaller precups ports, that post mentioned a lot of soot on the pistons with smaller ports. They went more along that route in an attemp to spread the flame front across more the face of the piston.

I had a head off of a 6.9 with the precups missing so I thought I would go out and just buy one of the chevy diamond precups and try it. The chevy pre cups are too small to fit in the head correctly, they do have a much larger opening in them


Do see cant just use those precups since they are smaller in diameter.

The real problem porting a precup throat is you need to do it to 8 precups and they need to be the same. Otherwise the flame going thru them will be differant. Then you have cylinders making differant amounts of power and that causes a vibration. Its the same in a gasser when a spark plug is not fireing properly.

Any thing done to them would have to be precise. So dont see messing with them as option since dont have a mill to play with. If had the mean could experiment on a sacrificial engine to see how all this would play out.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Any thing done to them would have to be precise. So dont see messing with them as option since dont have a mill to play with. If had the mean could experiment on a sacrificial engine to see how all this would play out.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I don't know who said it first, but they sure sound A LOT smarter than me!
 

1mouse3

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If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I don't know who said it first, but they sure sound A LOT smarter than me!

Fair point to brake it first. Will see what gets cut off the deck first and should check reseshion on the valve on these reman heads first. So just make sure of no interference and just send it, found spec sheet.


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1mouse3

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I could not agree more indirect injected vs direct injected the key take aways are compression ratio's higher compressions ratios mean are not as reliant on a turbo and in essence are more efficient and able to run alternative fuels easier because of the said higher compression also the things about lower compression motors is theyre more tolerant to higher boost lvl's for our IDI's its a fine line with decompressing our motors because of starting issues I find doing the 5.9 cummins 12valve 370 marine injector nozzles machined down to fit in our motors compensates for most of that our engines rely heavily on the compression / heat so when we decompress our motors we need to change our injection spray setup to make them emulsify the fuel better so the fuel ignites easier in the flame cup reducing the issue with hard starting when decompressed ( be aware these injector nozzles don't play well with glow plugs installed do the delete i list later on simply put theyre in the way of the spray pattern and stop the injector nozzles from functioning properly ).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Performanc...843019?hash=item5b77050a8b:g:amAAAOSwN35e5xbu injector nozzles

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intake-Man...213289?hash=item3d559acc69:g:rSYAAOSwoFVaVhWo intake heater

is the injector nozzles i speak of machine them down to fit aka the diameter where they go into our cylinder head these injector nozzles are a direct match to our originals where they go on the injector itself so its a simple mod ( retard timing slightly as these allow for quicker detenation of the fuel ) that makes starting our motors much easier then remove the glowplugs altogether and cut them off weld them shut on bottom then use a lathe to retaper them so they seal properly ( be aware these injector nozzles don't play well with glow plugs installed do the delete I explained simply put theyre in the way of the spray pattern and stop the injector nozzles from functioning properly ). Then add a intake heater from a 7.3 powerstroke ( or something similar theyre used in duramax diesels and many other powerstrokes ) where your CDR goes in back of your intake glow it on a cool day for about 10-15 seconds on a cold day 15-20 seconds and on a super cold day 20-25 seconds and your set and for the mornings where its way to cold plug the truck in or use a little ether it wont take hardly any these injector nozzles make starting much easier it suprised me first one i did it to before on really cold mornings ( up north cold not florida cold ) with fresh rebuilt injectors new nozzles I would almost do 1/4 can of ether to finally get truck started after these new nozzles ( 5.9 marine 370 nozzles and glow plug delete ) a little mist of ether or a lightly gas soaked rag in front of the air intake inlet / filter and off it went and very little puffing or anything just 3 rotations and it was running and almost ready to work and that motor was stupid decompressed ran 25psi of boost ( air to water intercooled super short piping all 3inch ) in that motor daily for years towing with the marine injector nozzles / glow plug delete and intake heater I never dynoed it but it was beastly now I do this mod to every one of my motors.


Found mention of how to get these engines to run on high decompression.
 

CBRF3

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Found mention of how to get these engines to run on high decompression.
The glowplug delete drastically decreases compression on its own be aware of this its around 2 points of compression so starting at 21.5:1 compression it will drop it to around 19.5:1 compression with no other mods and the intake heater in the CDR valve port really makes it start much easier. The cummins 5.9L 370 marine injector nozzles also change how easily these motors start you do lose a bit of power on the top end if run the 1750 psi pop pressure but setting it to 1825-1850 psi pop pressure makes things much better without adding alot of strain on the IP. I am pretty sure you doing the glow plug delete will drop enough compression to run around 20psi of boost intercooled safely without head studs as I have a 6.9 doing just this and has for years no issues after alot of miles most towing running a modified custom holset HX35 using stock waste gate setup which is set factory to 20psi.

I also have to say didnt need to do the total seal rings a set of over bore 390 ford rings fits and have tight gap on both 1st and 2nd ring clearance or the hastings set for our motors for the 6.9 has a option for the tight ring gap for both will have to look thru my files and such to get the part # hastings 2D5963.



This next link is the standard set with the wide gap 2nd ring that causes tons of blowby
 
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1mouse3

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The glowplug delete drastically decreases compression on its own be aware of this its around 2 points of compression so starting at 21.5:1 compression it will drop it to around 19.5:1 compression with no other mods and the intake heater in the CDR valve port really makes it start much easier.
I am pretty sure you doing the glow plug delete will drop enough compression to run around 20psi of boost intercooled safely without head studs as I have a 6.9 doing just this and has for years no issues after alot of miles most towing running a modified custom holset HX35 using stock waste gate setup which is set factory to 20psi.


Thanks for the tip, I will go for it so I know compression is not a facktor on the table. I am going to run a he300 and hx35 with 10cm turbine housings, so close to being parralel hx32's.

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The passenger manifold has been tacked up and I have the up pilpe fitted, driver side is just base pices made.

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parrallel turbos



The cummins 5.9L 370 marine injector nozzles also change how easily these motors start you do lose a bit of power on the top end if run the 1750 psi pop pressure but setting it to 1825-1850 psi pop pressure makes things much better without adding alot of strain on the IP


Thanks and have a understaning how to set the injectors like I have done allready

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I also have to say didnt need to do the total seal rings a set of over bore 390 ford rings fits and have tight gap on both 1st and 2nd ring clearance or the hastings set for our motors for the 6.9 has a option for the tight ring gap for both will have to look thru my files and such to get the part # hastings 2D5963.

Hastings Catalog


I am building a 7.3 with turbo pistons and psd rods that are getting milled .130 on the big end right now. What about the key stone ring in these pistons? Thanks for it anyways if I get around to rebuilding the 6.9.
 

CBRF3

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Thanks for the tip, I will go for it so I know compression is not a facktor on the table. I am going to run a he300 and hx35 with 10cm turbine housings, so close to being parralel hx32's.

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The passenger manifold has been tacked up and I have the up pilpe fitted, driver side is just base pices made.

You must be registered for see images attach


parrallel turbos






Thanks and have a understaning how to set the injectors like I have done allready

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I am building a 7.3 with turbo pistons and psd rods that are getting milled .130 on the big end right now. What about the key stone ring in these pistons? Thanks for it anyways if I get around to rebuilding the 6.9.
Just thought would link this it shows how easy my old 7.3l IDI started with 5.9l 370 marine injector nozzles machined to fit and 1825-1850 psi pop pressure on a worn out motor with tons of blowby I mean tons this motor was completely wore out look at the blowby coming out dipstick thats with a 1inch roadraft tube and CDR valve still on intake that motor was super tired. I swapped the motor out shortly after and reset the pop on these injectors and installed them on the new engine I also moved over the deleted glowplugs I started it with a screwdriver across the start solenoid and truck had been setting for well over 5hrs and it was like 60f that day.

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CBRF3

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That will do and would these cheap ones be fine?


cummins 5.9L 370 marine injector nozzles
yes they should be fine the ones I linked are still cheaper buy 2 sets of ones I linked they need machined on a lathe the link you linked is for each single nozzle. The link I linked is for 6 of them so 2 sets will be needed but will have 4 extras remember to set timing a bit more retarded to be safe and work it gently till she runs best never adjust when running it will destroy the IP.

 

1mouse3

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the ones I linked are still cheaper buy 2 sets of ones I linked they need machined on a lathe the link you linked is for each single nozzle. The link I linked is for 6 of them so 2 sets will be needed but will have 4 extras


Ah thank, I miss counted.
 

1mouse3

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Idle hands are the devil's playground.

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I clame the devil made me do it.

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I did take it easy on her this time.

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1mouse3

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@CBRF3 I was seeing you mention of hard starts blow 40 with the glow plug delete along with the 12v nozzels, even with the air intake heater. What about also having a inline grid heater as well like one these two I found?

grid heater A
grid heater B
 

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