Upgrade from oil burner to oil dumper...

1mouse3

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I am having too much blow by on a overhaled engine that sat for about 2 years, no mater what I try with one catch can works and might try a second. It is a steady pulse of smoke out the oil cap, with the oil cap its a loss out the main seals that sprays oil everywhere and with a draft tube its controllable loss of oil. I did try to run her 45 min up a grade with a lot of metal in the bed, this is varring from 2400-2800 rpm in 4th and did not get much smoke out the draft tube or oil on the ground at the destination. So put the cap back on and tryed a run back the other way on the grade, well she barfed oil at the other destination and was down the same 3 quarts. The good news is there is no fog of blue eminating from this engine, what little that might came from hammer down is a wisp of gray.



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Nero

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Sitting for prolonged time the rings may be stuck in the pistons.
Do a leak down test and see if you have excess leakage past the rings
 

1mouse3

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Sitting for prolonged time the rings may be stuck in the pistons.
Do a leak down test and see if you have excess leakage past the rings


I dont have money right now to go more tools and yea the engine should not had sat before its first run...
 

hacked89

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It’s probably the rings, IDIs have a decent amount of blow by normally. The only ones I’ve seen with no blow by are the total seals. Not sure what you mean no matter what you try one catch can works? If funding doesn’t allow any changes or purchases currently except small ones why not weld bungs into the valve covers and then corresponding direct into your intake tubes. That’s what I do.

Yours wouldn’t look like this of course
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1mouse3

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It’s probably the rings, IDIs have a decent amount of blow by normally. The only ones I’ve seen with no blow by are the total seals. Not sure what you mean no matter what you try one catch can works? If funding doesn’t allow any changes or purchases currently except small ones why not weld bungs into the valve covers and then corresponding direct into your intake tubes. That’s what I do.


What I mean is the one catch can I have hooked up with the 1in line off the timing cover, dose not have enough vacuum and even teeing it to both sides dose not do any better. Would doing that give chance of run away, since there is no catch can to collect oil? For what I have ran the engine, I have got about 2 or 3 table spoons of oil in the catch can.
 

1mouse3

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I do have this laying around, that was on its way to being a catch can for something else. So could run a 1in line from each the valve covers, to a catch can and then 3/4 to a intake tube.


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Also have this filter laying around that could be put on the 1in hose off the timming cover, for if still needing vented to atmosphere.

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hacked89

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I do have this laying around, that was on its way to being a catch can for something else. So could run a 1in line from each the valve covers, to a catch can and then 3/4 to a intake tube.


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Also have this filter laying around that could be put on the 1in hose off the timming cover, for if still needing vented to atmosphere.

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I’ve never personally seen or heard of one running away in that setup, only heard speculation.

If the derby engine I’m building doesn’t run away then I’d put the runaway concerns to bed but that’s a few months from testing.
 

Jesus Freak

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It’s probably the rings, IDIs have a decent amount of blow by normally. The only ones I’ve seen with no blow by are the total seals. Not sure what you mean no matter what you try one catch can works? If funding doesn’t allow any changes or purchases currently except small ones why not weld bungs into the valve covers and then corresponding direct into your intake tubes. That’s what I do.

Yours wouldn’t look like this of course
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HEY! You posted a picture!
 

1mouse3

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Well stuffed the pvc tube with steel wool, and zip tied it somewhere out the way. Also had 1in couplings welded on to spare valve covers, and this what I came up with for the driver side.


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For the passenger side, its a little bit more simple of routing...

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I also repurposed the filter on too the timing cover, though like the pcv system on my gasser that needs a vent filter. I saw at the auto parts store some hot shots stiction eliminator, it says can clear varnish and stuff off rings so giving it a try. I took it for another short run and think used less oil, it still needs the draft tube but dose not leak as bad with all this and a cap. It did seem to get a little less noisy after the run.

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1mouse3

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Driving it is your best bet. Needs loaded to unstick and seat the rings, idling won't do that.


Thank, and that was what I was thinking with what went on with the 6.9. So being weary on how far can go on oil and trying to keep the engine over 1500 rpm, the 3.55 gears with the t19 on 35s has me optimally running the ~1600-2800rpm range. She runs decent in that range for the most part, but on the lower end its a little slow to gain pace up a grade. I am also trying to limit where going, so as not being somewhere that would put me below that and lug the engine. I have only idled the engine long enogh after first start, to ensure it would keep enough fluid in it and run that range. I do have a bit of weight in the bed to soften up the ton a half springs, this is a rough landry list of it...

A free home made headache rack
A onan 4.5k gen set
3 tranys, 2 slush boxes and 1 manual
Everthing to dress up a 7.3 long block, this includes a/c, wire harness and the bucket of bolts to put it together
10,25 diff carrier with 4.10 gear and pinion
Nascar bars off a c10 for the f100
Many gallons of extra fluid
The old metal from doing the rocker on the driver side
A couple short runs of agle iron
A low profile crain with 750lb capacity
And a spare 16x10 steel wheel that needs a 35in tire
 

1mouse3

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So if 30-40 miles can can be made on a quart of oil, that means 4 stops on a run to my house. I made the run and she just wanted to leak more again, but it found other places to make fail this time. I will invetigate the out come another time, for now she sits to think about what she did. I did invetigate what was at 3000 rpm a few times, it was mostly a flat ramp down to there but on the way back the turbos eventually decided to start doing someting. The turbos did widdle there way down to ~2300 rpm, where they whould want to show there presence. So will see what its like after I fix new leaks.
 

Jesus Freak

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Cows and chickens are good at showing you what's wrong with your construction methods. IDIs are good at showing you where you didn't tighten or seal enough or correctly.

I know it's still "in process", but YO! YOU DEED EEET!!!
 

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