Self oil burning

1mouse3

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Lock stitching is something you can do to save it. But what's it going to cost?

I would like to know that to waight options.

Reman heads, although available, are not that cheap.

I see that the cheapest set would be $1600 and shipping wount be cheap, work done so far has ben $170. So not sure if will be worth it over getting the ones I have lock and stitched, just need to find someone who can and cost.

7.3 heads
 

1mouse3

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I'm honestly surprised the machine shop even recommended this.

It was not even recommended and was brought when ask if there is a way to save them, I asked because finding another used set is not possible locally where I gambled on a core engine to get the ones I have.
 

1mouse3

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Thanks for finding that, will call them in the morning when there open. Did call the only other old machine shops I could find around, they said they dont and one that did is closed. The is like 5 others but mostly newer ones, Iv call them in the past and wont touch diesel stuff.
 

1mouse3

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I am not alowed to commit suicide, but beating my head on the wall is soothing... :joker:

I did get the head and am not going to work any magic on them. As for the block had not been able to get the block decked and unsure on the hone. Was going to call it and send it with what I have in parts on hand. I have been talked out of doing such and fronted money to get issues sorted. The person says found someone to get to it in a few weeks, but I dont hold my breath. I am unsure on if any more honing will cause piston rock and if the strange spotes will seal, so its going .020 over. I see parts are almost non existant along with being expensive, h651cp-20 pistons are what I found in stock but S1474-20 rings are a few week back order. Went with the gapless second ring so blow by should not be a issue. Since doing more than what I to do at the moment, some forged psd rods where thrown on the tab. I may be opening a can of worms but o'well. Do know big end need narrowed by .130 and small end bushed down to 30mm from 33mm, may need to find a bushing to give to the machinist when time. Dont want to wait since the 6.9 is knocking and have to drive the f100, she may be fun to drive but is a delicate toy that is a little bit beat up.
 

1mouse3

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With futher digging found some turbo pistons at part number 224-3512HA.020 with a few day back order, with this the matching rings at S2884-20 where in stock. This is better time frame and dont have to bush the psd rods to fit, so had the order changed.
 

1mouse3

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Debating over stuff, was thinking to have someone shave the pistons .010. I need to get the block decked and going to run say 20psi boost out this, so think might want slight decompression. Think would want 19.5:1 to 20:1, decking the block would push me over the 21:1 starting point. Stumbled across these shims at .020, this would give what I want with out shaving the pistons. How would these hold up and do they get glued to the block with something?


Shims
 

IDIBRONCO

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Mac Robb said that he had trouble running Justin's decomp head gaskets which (I think) are similar to these. He said that he was always getting small bubbles in his cooling system. That's about all I know about them.
 

1mouse3

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Mac Robb said that he had trouble running Justin's decomp head gaskets which (I think) are similar to these. He said that he was always getting small bubbles in his cooling system. That's about all I know about them.


Think this is that person, these where copper and what I found is steel. Was there failler or just bubbles?

? copper shims
 

The_Josh_Bear

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MacRobb had a lot of starting issues to boot and IIRC it decompressed(or should have) to around 18:1. Just food for thought, don't know if there were other issues going on too.
 

1mouse3

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MacRobb had a lot of starting issues to boot and IIRC it decompressed(or should have) to around 18:1.

This is what I find on that.

I ran with an experimental double-thickness gasket for a while... it was *not* a good idea - Cold starting was a pain, lots of smoke when cold; I literally had to advance the IP like a whole extra tooth just to get it to start cold, and then had to deal with that advance hindering me when running and warm.
cod start

Found this in post in a thread he was in and I think is the gasket he is refuring to, this is two gaskets and 3 shims with a new fire ring from Romel77.

You must be registered for see images attach



From what I remember, just bubbles. He didn't like that so he got rid of them.

Found this in the fe world, so might take the gamble. I am not wanting to ask to get the pistons shaved, the one that would do it cheap out his garage is not answering the phone so having issues finding someone to cut the rods. First source for the turbo pistons flaked out with a longer back order and found some else where, just got them a week ago. Got someone that said they would bore, deck and ballence what I have 2 weeks from them. The one that left me high and dry on the heads is the only one so far that has said yes, but cant get a time frame out him. So going to do some calling tomorrow and see what I can find. Being almost done with the turbo manifolds will leave me with out a distraction from this, cant think of anything else produtive to make right now.

FFR428 said:
I haven't used the MR G gaskets but I always use oem steel gaskets when I can find them or repoped fitzgerald steel gaskets. The dry deck kind I use copper spray. Ford also made a set of 427 gaskets that wick coolant through the deck and with those I used no copper spray and installed them dry. Straight and flat deck, heads are the key. I start them off at 20 fts lbs and go up in 5lb increments to 95 ft lbs. Be sure the surfaces are clean. I use acetone to clean everything before.
 

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