removing "t" pipe on ATS turbo, how???

[kf6ivi]

Ok How the heck do you remove the “t” pipe from an ATS non-wastegated turbo. I have the down pipe loose. I have the nuts at the exhaust removed. I have sprayed ever type of penetrating oil stuff I have (PB blaster, liquid wrench plus a few others) at the slip joint on the snail housing and the “t” pipe. I have placed a wood block under the snail housing and beat on the “t” pipe with a wood dowel from the top hoping to break the seal at the joint.

I am beginning to hate this turbo. I have been trying to remove it for two days now.

Do I have to remove the cab of the truck?
Do I hook the cherry picker to the turbo and pull with the “t” tied off at the bottom?
Do I take a Victor wrench and cut the turbo in half?
Do I just sell the truck and buy a dodge Diesel?


Thanks for your thoughts

Ethan

 

[riotwarrior]

donate the truck to me.....purchase a yugo and be happy

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Well I have both types of turbos from ATS, non gated aftermarket, and factory gated. I honestly dont know what you could be talking about except for the oil return pipe that runs out the bottom of the center cartridge and drops into the valley pan. Please clarify what this is, and I'll help you out.

 

[Diesel JD]

I think you mean the uppipe that goes into the snailshell and is a pressed fit right? Honestly...I hope I never have to take mine off again. The guy that installed my turbo neglected to add never-seize and I didn't want to make him take it down just for that. If possible, try to pull the turbo with this pipe attached. I'm not sure if you'll have enough room or not. My ATS came from ebay with this pipe still installed. Somehow Ken got it apart when he was doing the rebuild. The bad thing is that it is made of the same metal that the snailshell is, and this is probably why it seals well when you manage to seat it properly. If it were a different metal you could no doubt heat one or the other and it would come apart. Maybe someone can give you some better ideas...is this the right t-pipe?

 

[SKimballC]

Ethan, yup, BTDT. It is a bear to remove one of these that's been in there awhile. I tried everything in the book, and the only thing that eventually worked was pulling the passenger side manifold off, then flipping the crossover pipe and bolting it back onto the y-pipe, followed by a series of blows to the crossover to twist the y-pipe in the exhaust snail. After I broke it free it was out after a few more twists and tugs. Good luck.

 

[Diesel JD]

Shane do you absolutely have to pull that uppipe to take the turbo off? As I say if I recall mine came with it attached when I bought it off of ebay.

 

[SKimballC]

If you need to pull the turbo and the up-pipe isn't budging at the turbo, you have big trouble since the up-pipe is stuck on the studs of the passenger side manifold and its stuck in the exhaust snail. So you either need to get it off the studs to work it free or free it from the turbo. There's no room for much else since it'll still be too tight to pull off the pedestal up top.
BUT, hmmm... if you pull the cowl, you might be able to clear it...

 

[kf6ivi]

I am trying to remove the up pipe from the exhaust to turbo, it is a slip fit that has rusted up on me. It has been in for about 200000 mile and 17 years. Thankfully I live in a non-rust belt.

I will try pulling the left side exhaust manifold tomorrow to get room to work on the up pipe. If it comes to I will pull the transmission and transfer case and see if that give me room to pull the engine out. Can I pull the engine out with the turbo in place I will probably see tomorrow.

Thanks again Ethan

 

[SKimballC]

You're gonna have to break it hard. Probably by twisting it. It ain't gonna come staight down. Good luck buddy.

 

[zigg]

I hooked a cherry picker onto the top of mine and nearly lifted the whole engine I had so much pull on it, then I built a slaphammer to bolt onto the bottom with 30lbs of weight and beat and beat and slammed and used WD40 and after a couple hunderd smacks, it finally let go...

It's a bear, good luck with it...

Zigg

 

[towcat]

I cheated on mime.
I lifted the body and the whole thing dropped right out.
never succeeded in separating the two halves but pulling the turbo makes it easier along with lifting the body. Pulling the body is not as imposing as it may sound. six bolts, steering shaft, brake master, radiator hoses and you're ready to go.

 

[kf6ivi]

I think I am going to go with Towcat’s idea. I will cut some block out of 4x4’s lift the cab up and place them under the cab supports (I will replace the cab mounts while I am there). I have planned on change out the rag-joint on the steering while the motor is out.

I will pull the transmission-transfer case tomorrow to give me more room to work with.

I need to go out to the truck to drain the front fuel tank, so I can lift the cab up.

I have given up on working on the turbo today, if I work on it anymore today. I will KILL something or someone. What a pain in the backside.

Ethan

 

[towcat]

I need to go out to the truck to drain the front fuel tank, so I can lift the cab up.

why?
all of the cab bolts are accessed from inside the cab except for the radiator support nuts. fold seat forward for the rear two. pull up carpet on the floor for the access plates to get to the forward two.
here's two pics of my reason why I lifted my cab to work on the truck....
pic 1 is with the cab installed, pic 2 is the cab lifted. look at the room between the firewall and the turbo

 

[ttman4]

Lots of dirty words help! I promise!
Thru the years I've had my nongated ATS off about 8-10 times. sometimes it just screwed my brains bigtime, sometimes it "just fell off!"
I've had the pipes off also without pulling turbo....same way, some easy, some brain-screwers!
From here on this side of puter, I suggest just keep wigglin & squirting & let it set & soak, & pry with blocks & peck & beat some....goes without saying, don't beat with big hard steel objects, unless it's cushioned some.

I guareentee you, one of these trips back out to work on it, when your all teeth gritted, red faced, all muscled bound ready to grip & twist hell-out'a-it, & convienced it'll never come off ...that thing suddenly fly loose & hit you in the kisser!!! don't ask!
Just don't let your guard down!!!

 

[kf6ivi]

When I helped my on my friends trucks the only way you could get a wrench on the driver rear bottom was to drop the front fuel tank. I was under the truck today looking at that rear drivers mount and it has a nut on the bottom. Can you get them loose without dropping the tank?

I will try beating the turbo again if it is not raining. I have been beating on it using a cherry picker to pull up while I beat on it. I have been using a 3 1/2 inch round x 26 inch long piece of eucalyptus wood to beat on while under the truck.

All I can say this has become more of a pain in my backside than I thought it would.
If I have to lift the cab so be it. Remove the trany-transfer case so be it.
I will be glad to get the engine out so I can place the “new” one in.

Ethan