IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
It has to be pretty close. It does have a range of adjustment where it's "in spec", but it's pretty small. There's a way to set it with a DVOM (digital volt/ohm meter), but I have no idea what the readings should be.
Reman IP fuel setting for existing turbo?
- Thread starter O-Ring
- Start date
Thanks, the pin came out no problem. I put the round connecting tab on and pushed the pin back into the hole where it goes until it stopped, but the hex set screw directly in line with the pin pushed it back out partially when I tightened that screw. With the two set screws tight and the pin poking out quite far now, I am wondering if the pin is supposed to stay in partially or was that just a temporary thing until assembly and we're done with the pin. The pin is not even very tight now and would likely fall out at some point. Since I did not remove the old connecting tab, I don't have that experience to guide me. Thank you and Merry Christmas everyone!
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Don't use that pin with the E4OD set up. The only thing it's used for is on the C6 set up. The set screws will hold that round piece in place.
Replacement injector pump is in, everything is connected and I'm working on purging the air out of the injector lines. I've got two lines cracked open and after four 15-second cycles, no fuel coming out. I bled the schrader valve next and removed the bleed hose while still cranking. Tried again two more 15-second crank cycles but still no fuel coming from the two injector lines. Is it simply that I need to open a couple more? Or maybe I just need to try a few more cycles? Thoughts from those who've been there? Thank you!
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
You probably need to do this a few more times. It can be a real bear to get all of the sir out sometimes. I also like to crack all 8 lines at the injectors. It will give you a better idea of how much fuel is getting to the injectors. When I see that the top of the nut in the injector line is wet (not just damp) then I'll tighten that nut. When I get at least 6 injectors that have fuel to them, then I'll close them all and try to start the engine.
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
What he said!
Always crack as many as you can get to, and the first few cranking sessions you had don't mean much if it was getting air. Schraeder valve first until fuel comes out, then prime the injectors.
After that it all depends on the state of your lift pump and IP and starter/batteries. A good IP will prime quickly and a worn out one may never prime with anything but a perfect starting setup.
If you have a manual transmission you can ignore all this and just have a buddy drag you around the block in 2nd gear.
Always crack as many as you can get to, and the first few cranking sessions you had don't mean much if it was getting air. Schraeder valve first until fuel comes out, then prime the injectors.
After that it all depends on the state of your lift pump and IP and starter/batteries. A good IP will prime quickly and a worn out one may never prime with anything but a perfect starting setup.
If you have a manual transmission you can ignore all this and just have a buddy drag you around the block in 2nd gear.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I've done that myself.If you have a manual transmission you can ignore all this and just have a buddy drag you around the block in 2nd gear.
DrCharles
Full Access Member
Or you could take the glow plugs out... makes it MUCH easier to spin the engine over for extended periods, and faster too. 
Old Goat
Full Access Member
What he said!
Always crack as many as you can get to, and the first few cranking sessions you had don't mean much if it was getting air. Schraeder valve first until fuel comes out, then prime the injectors.
After that it all depends on the state of your lift pump and IP and starter/batteries. A good IP will prime quickly and a worn out one may never prime with anything but a perfect starting setup.
If you have a manual transmission you can ignore all this and just have a buddy drag you around the block in 2nd gear.
That`s called a Rope Starter.
Goat
Super helpful! It's an E4OD, so I won't be dragging it around the neighborhood. But I keep the batteries on a charger and I ran the block heater before I tried cranking and will do so again. Going to try again today.
UPDATE. Just finished before it got too dark to see what's happening. All injector connections cracked as advised, fully charged batteries, block heated engine, schrader valve purged of air and then closed up while still cranking, 2-minute wait, then 15-seconds of cranking, 2-minute wait, another session, etc. I did 12 cranking sessions (cranking strong) and no sign of any fuel out the tops or under the nuts. If there is nothing wrong with this reman pump, should I see fuel by now or would another dozen sessions not be unusual? How many more with no sign of fuel before I crack one of the injector line connections at the pump and see if anything is coming out there? And of course, I can double check the charge on my batteries next time to make sure they are over 10.5 but it sure sounded good to me when cranking today. They are charging again now. Advice from experience much appreciated.
Just came to me! I have the forward-most wire on the driver's side of the pump pulled off so the truck won't start. Is that connection needed for the pump to work? (My excuse for ignorance is I was USCG trained on GM 6V-53 series engines and this IP stuff is new to me.)
gnathv
Full Access Member
That’s the fuel cut off solinoi, it needs power to it. It may start.
