Good morning, group. ’93 F-350 has been running an early Banks Sidewinder aftermarket turbo for (apparently) many years before I bought it. IP is leaking now. I’ve bought a reman DB2 5013 to replace same, which was running fine with the turbo, although I understand it is not the recommended (5069) version for the factory turbo. I’ve been told the difference is only the fuel setting when purchased. I’m thinking to check the fuel setting on the old one (how many flats from stop) and setting the new one the same as a starting point before I install it. Any experienced opinions on that idea would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Reman IP fuel setting for existing turbo?
- Thread starter O-Ring
- Start date
I wouldn't bother with that method as it may give you inconsistent results. Your best bet is to set it with a pyrometer (EGT gauge).
Run yours around and pull a couple hills watching the gauge and see what the temperature is reading. Then slowly turn the fuel up on the new pump until the readings are similar. That's really the best way to do what you want to do.
If you don't have a pyrometer, you should get one. They're a little expensive, but definitely cheaper than melting pistons.
Doing it this way you can also turn it up a little bit more, because you'll be able to monitor temperatures. Stock settings should be a little bit conservative so there a safety margin.
Run yours around and pull a couple hills watching the gauge and see what the temperature is reading. Then slowly turn the fuel up on the new pump until the readings are similar. That's really the best way to do what you want to do.
If you don't have a pyrometer, you should get one. They're a little expensive, but definitely cheaper than melting pistons.
Doing it this way you can also turn it up a little bit more, because you'll be able to monitor temperatures. Stock settings should be a little bit conservative so there a safety margin.
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
That would definitely get you to a narrow ballpark. It may not be perfect, it may be. All depends on how the builder of the new pump does it and the quality of the rebuild.
It's a good idea and something you should certainly do. Also, that info is correct that the only differences are the total fuel delivery, nothing fancy.
It's a good idea and something you should certainly do. Also, that info is correct that the only differences are the total fuel delivery, nothing fancy.
Thank you Chillman88 and Josh Bear. I sense a difference of opinion here. 
I should mention that the old IP is nearly out, so the truck is not going anywhere until I put the new one in. And yes, I have a pyrometer mounted on the dash -- never leave home without one.
I should mention that the old IP is nearly out, so the truck is not going anywhere until I put the new one in. And yes, I have a pyrometer mounted on the dash -- never leave home without one.
Just wondering: where did you buy your pump?
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
Well the best way is to maximize your power potential is with the pyro as @chillman88 said. I was just agreeing that with it out on the bench it's really easy to get close to your previous power level since you seemed happy with that. It's SO MUCH easier on the bench it's not even funny.
It will be interesting to see how that pump performs as I don't think there's very much history with that supplier here. Fingers and toes are crossed for you, but it's not one of the pump guys that are highly endorsed by this website.
I'm not sure it's so much a difference of opinion as it is two ways of going about the same thing.
The way I posted would be more accurate than just adjusting the fuel screw to match, however there's nothing WRONG with the other way. It just doesn't take into account differences in calibration is all.
For that matter, you could always turn the pump all the way up and just watch the pyro and let off the throttle when it gets hot. I know there are people who do that, and you could always turn the pump back down little by little if you're running hot.
I spoke with one of the guys who builds pumps for The Diesel Store and he was very helpful. He advised against trying to duplicate the "runs good" setting from the old pump to the new one using the number of turns relative to either full closed or full open. He said there is a leaf spring involved that is not likely to behave identically in both pumps and I'm better off following the instructions I found for this 25 year old turbo kit, namely, turn the fuel up 1/4 turn from pre-turbo (which turns out to be about 1.75 flats). I did that and while I had the new pump on the bench, I marked with paint on the housing of the pump where my hex would be pointing for each of 6 flats around if I need to change the setting. So that is the plan and I'll report back once the pump is in and truck running.
BTW, I bought an IP installation kit containing the following but I am unsure about a couple of items as noted below:
D134630H1 5/16” Fuel Line Sleeve 2
D265204R1 3/8” Fuel Line Sleeve 1 - Is this for the connection at the filter coming in from the lift pump?
D369384R1 Fuel Inlet O-Ring 1 - Where does this go?
D28549R1 Pump Mount Bolt 3
D382781R1 Pump Mount O-Ring 1
Insight on those two items noted above very much appreciated. Cheers!
BTW, I bought an IP installation kit containing the following but I am unsure about a couple of items as noted below:
D134630H1 5/16” Fuel Line Sleeve 2
D265204R1 3/8” Fuel Line Sleeve 1 - Is this for the connection at the filter coming in from the lift pump?
D369384R1 Fuel Inlet O-Ring 1 - Where does this go?
D28549R1 Pump Mount Bolt 3
D382781R1 Pump Mount O-Ring 1
Insight on those two items noted above very much appreciated. Cheers!
Just my educated guess I'm going to say the 3/8 sleeve may be for the older style where the return line was a hardline?
The inlet fitting that threads into the pump is an o-ring seal adapter to the hardline, so I'd assume that's where the o-ring goes.
Putting everything back together now. In the “kick myself” department, I sent the old pump back as core but forgot to remove the tab that inserts into the throttle position sensor. As a result, I didn’t have the experience of taking it (whatever it’s called) off the pump. Got a replacement now but I can’t see how it is supposed to go back on over that pin (see picture). Help from someone who knows would be really, really appreciated.
Attachments
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
That's an easy one. The pin just drives out fairly easily. Just use a small rolled pin punch (not a center punch) and a hammer to drive it out.
