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https://youtu.be/rvN9LpRuUQg
https://youtu.be/rvN9LpRuUQg
Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build
- Thread starter Greg5OH
- Start date
X-NRCan_IDI
Full Access Member
Have you considered internal bead balancing for your wheels?
she sound sgooodl cant wqait for a loaded drive, especially with the turned up pump. I almost wanted to wait witht he pump tsee what injectors alone do but no time for these tests. just want it to run, and run well. and make some jam. im hoping for 250/500 at the wheels. Evnetually i need some anti wrap bars or similar for the rear axle, in 2lo you can definitly see alot of axle wrap.
today i am wiring my head and parking lights, and putting in my aux switches, so i got to cut and label a bunch of wires, got me a label maker for this as they will probably be all 1 color, well see. put the dahs back in this morning. ordered a 4x8 sheet of 1/8" thick steel for the bumper, picking that up in this truck next week i hope! tomorrow is hooking up the wiper motor hope it works. need to paint the cowl piece before installing it, but might just say screw it pop it on and take care of all the paint to do it right later on in one shot, uyeah thats what ill do. Get that tilt column and new wheel and horn installed too this weekend!
today i am wiring my head and parking lights, and putting in my aux switches, so i got to cut and label a bunch of wires, got me a label maker for this as they will probably be all 1 color, well see. put the dahs back in this morning. ordered a 4x8 sheet of 1/8" thick steel for the bumper, picking that up in this truck next week i hope! tomorrow is hooking up the wiper motor hope it works. need to paint the cowl piece before installing it, but might just say screw it pop it on and take care of all the paint to do it right later on in one shot, uyeah thats what ill do. Get that tilt column and new wheel and horn installed too this weekend!
X-NRCan_IDI
Full Access Member
I've been running airsoft BBs in mine for a while and haven't had any issues so far... It doesn't seem to shake or vibrate any more than what I feel is tolerable in an older F350 sometimes a little bit around 85k/hr I think), and that's usually at higher speeds. Low speed is always pretty smooth. Decided to try them because there wasn't enough clearance to fit sticky weights on the front.
There were a few other members here who've been running them. Can't remember for sure who...
im going to try the steel weight balance first, well see how it goes. Gotta make it to the shop its 20 miles away with 1 wheel having no weights on it lol. Im goign to stay off th ehighway. Planning on monday hopefully!
Figured the wiring on the headlights and front parking lights thats all good. started tying everything up. the Gm headlight switch turns the park lamps off when the headlights are on, i dont like that, mr. Souza said just tie into the running light circuit with the park lamps and they will be on, ill do that after. I need to get a new turn switch as the cam lock is broken on the one i received, so you have to hold the switch down to keep the blinker on. not a big deal, im just stoked to have tilt steering.
actualyl the swithc is fine, so im just ordering this
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-49304-...&sr=8-2&keywords=1991+f350+turn+signal+switch
so tonight, wire in the front lights permenantly, and run my aux switch wires. finally fasten down my gauges. That should take me into the evening after work.
Almost 100% legal minus front bumper. I will be designing and making cardboard cutouts this weekend, need to incorporate a 2.5" receiver and the winch mount somehow. Thinking of having the winch just top mount on some 5/8 studs that will be welded in from the inside of the bumper.
im still concerned mountign the bumper ot the super duty front frame plates. they jut seem kidna flimsy to take 12k line pull..
Figured the wiring on the headlights and front parking lights thats all good. started tying everything up. the Gm headlight switch turns the park lamps off when the headlights are on, i dont like that, mr. Souza said just tie into the running light circuit with the park lamps and they will be on, ill do that after. I need to get a new turn switch as the cam lock is broken on the one i received, so you have to hold the switch down to keep the blinker on. not a big deal, im just stoked to have tilt steering.
actualyl the swithc is fine, so im just ordering this
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-49304-...&sr=8-2&keywords=1991+f350+turn+signal+switch
so tonight, wire in the front lights permenantly, and run my aux switch wires. finally fasten down my gauges. That should take me into the evening after work.
Almost 100% legal minus front bumper. I will be designing and making cardboard cutouts this weekend, need to incorporate a 2.5" receiver and the winch mount somehow. Thinking of having the winch just top mount on some 5/8 studs that will be welded in from the inside of the bumper.
im still concerned mountign the bumper ot the super duty front frame plates. they jut seem kidna flimsy to take 12k line pull..
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Make the bumper hollow, with the winch sitting inside it at frame rails level with the feet forward. Most winches get installed feet-down, when you get to pulling that puts a big axial load on the rear bolts, a bending moment at the front bolts, and shear on all four. Those are relatively small bolts threaded into aluminum castings... Bolting the winch feet-forward takes care of all that, and the load from the pull puts the winch legs in compression which is their strongest position. We have Ramsey worm-drive winches on the bigger trucks (10k, 12k, and forgot what the big monster was on the MDT), they all get installed with bolts from the front and the back, none from the bottom - this is how they re designed, as again this is the strongest attachment method possible.
If you have concerns about the factory mounting plates, just add some to your bumper that will reach further back on the frame rails. Two 1/2" grade-8 bolts per side should be plenty strong, as like I mentioned before in the typical feet-down installation the winch itself is held to the bumper by four much smaller bolts that have to handle the same loads and then some.
If you have concerns about the factory mounting plates, just add some to your bumper that will reach further back on the frame rails. Two 1/2" grade-8 bolts per side should be plenty strong, as like I mentioned before in the typical feet-down installation the winch itself is held to the bumper by four much smaller bolts that have to handle the same loads and then some.
I under stand what you are saying but I dont understand how can i turn the winch 90 degrees so the feet are in compression..then the feed reel will eb facing up?
edit: im looking at some pics now, its starting to make sense. I need my unit infront of me to understand this fully.
How much open area should I have infront of it for cooling? My bumper will cover half of my intercooler unfortunately so I was going to add a few openings in the bumper for this. Just thinking abotu the winch and how to get the cable out et cetc
Alsoi i need osme kind of access panel from the top to switch the lever from winching to free spool right?
edit: im looking at some pics now, its starting to make sense. I need my unit infront of me to understand this fully.
How much open area should I have infront of it for cooling? My bumper will cover half of my intercooler unfortunately so I was going to add a few openings in the bumper for this. Just thinking abotu the winch and how to get the cable out et cetc
Alsoi i need osme kind of access panel from the top to switch the lever from winching to free spool right?
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LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
cable exits thru the fairlead which is bolted to the bumper, not the winch itself. Winch can be upside down behind it, and it won't care. Think about what would happen if you just pulled on the cable with the winch unbolted, the winch would roll backwards - well if it only rolls 1/4 turn (90 degrees) then its feet will be forward. And yes, if you have top controls they will now be on the back side of the winch, towards your air-to-air, meaning you need to leave some space for them. Solenoids block can usually be relocated somewhere also...
Actually tell ya what, if you're strapped for space, just bolt the winch feet-down like you had planned initially. Then on the inside of the bumper, right in front of the castings that the feet are part of, build yourself some sort of supports for the aforementioned castings to lean against. Are you familiar with how carrier bearing cap supports work on axle housing covers? Copy that setup more or less, and when the winch is bolted in at the bottom pretension it slightly with the front supports. You get your ease of access for the controls and still takes care of the funky loading at the mounting bolts. How does that sound like a plan?
Actually tell ya what, if you're strapped for space, just bolt the winch feet-down like you had planned initially. Then on the inside of the bumper, right in front of the castings that the feet are part of, build yourself some sort of supports for the aforementioned castings to lean against. Are you familiar with how carrier bearing cap supports work on axle housing covers? Copy that setup more or less, and when the winch is bolted in at the bottom pretension it slightly with the front supports. You get your ease of access for the controls and still takes care of the funky loading at the mounting bolts. How does that sound like a plan?
thanks for the description LCAM, i will keep it in mind when i go forward building it.
in th emeantime, hooked all the running lights this morning! need some ring terminals to make a ground on the rear lights and extend my starter wire. Tonight i am hooking up my aux switches which will control the reverse lights, parking and clearance lights, and other things as well. Ordered some 1/2" split PET cover to wrap my headlight harness in.
Need to clean up my engine harness next.
in th emeantime, hooked all the running lights this morning! need some ring terminals to make a ground on the rear lights and extend my starter wire. Tonight i am hooking up my aux switches which will control the reverse lights, parking and clearance lights, and other things as well. Ordered some 1/2" split PET cover to wrap my headlight harness in.
Need to clean up my engine harness next.
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Ok firstthing first. The truck leaks about 10 drops on shutdown nothing while idling. This is oil and its coming from the top of the engine somewhrre. any ideas?
Drove it today with new injectors and stock pumpaxed. Friggin rips. souns amazing. I. Love. It.
Video soon.
Drove it today with new injectors and stock pumpaxed. Friggin rips. souns amazing. I. Love. It.
Video soon.
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LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Got the front bumper template already worked out? Also you really should add another pair of round lights to the inside of those you have now...
i dunno man, 4 lights kinda takes away from its :human" factor. I have a matching set with yellow bulbs in them i was set on putting in but when i mock them up im not feeling it too much. No didnt have time to mess around with the bumper. I need to fab a 4" steel intake tube for it first to draw in the post catch can vapors, it still smokes enough to be a nuissance.
I too am afraid it is the turbo plumbing. It is a total PITA to get to it let alone see wheere exactly it is coming from. Need to get the dental mirror out and inspect around it. Broke my damn hood cable as well.
regarding the intale I am buyibg some pre bent 45s. No way am i going to be making 100 pie cuts again to get the shape I want
I too am afraid it is the turbo plumbing. It is a total PITA to get to it let alone see wheere exactly it is coming from. Need to get the dental mirror out and inspect around it. Broke my damn hood cable as well.
regarding the intale I am buyibg some pre bent 45s. No way am i going to be making 100 pie cuts again to get the shape I want
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