Radius Arm Bracket

[Spun4Fun]

Planing to replace the Radius arm bushing but since our brackets are the rivet style i figured why not grind it out and install aftermarket one made by Moog part listed on a amazon Moog K8776. According to Moog this part is direct fit for the left side. They do not have any part # for the Right side ( passenger ) they do not even have any reference. I guess this is a mysterious part.

Any one had any success with replacing the Stock bracket with after market one with standard Bolt's and nut if so i would like to know where did you get the parts

Moog offer nice aftermarket Busing part # K80007 cant do the JOB without the Right side which is main side needs attention.

Cheers

 

[david85]

Interesting! I didn't know there was an aftermarket source for these:

You must be registered for see images attach

Source: https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K8776-R...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000C59ZPE

I have blasted out rivets for rear leaf spring shackles several times with success. Usually I use 7/16" grade 8 bolts to put everything back together.

Having said that, I never had to remove my radius arm brackets in order to replace the rubber bushings. Are your brackets damaged?

 

[Spun4Fun]

Interesting! I didn't know there was an aftermarket source for these:

You must be registered for see images attach

Source: https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K8776-R...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000C59ZPE

I have blasted out rivets for rear leaf spring shackles several times with success. Usually I use 7/16" grade 8 bolts to put everything back together.

Having said that, I never had to remove my radius arm brackets in order to replace the rubber bushings. Are your brackets damaged?

The bracket no busted, its solid with Zero rust, I need to replace the busing ONLY but i do not feel to go thru tearing the hole front end to replace a stupid busing due to rivet design.

I feel that it will be much easier , better for future main if it is the bolt on style. I even considered to knock off the Rivet like you said and go with Grade8 but not sure if this has been done before

 

[david85]

Its been a while since I had to do mine, but I didn't have to take the bracket off. Instead, the radius arm and I beam assembly was able to swing forward far enough to clear the bracket and remove the bushing. I had to disconnect the anti-roll bar though.

 

[no mufflers]

I use a air hammer and chisel to remove the rivets. I had mine off when I did the lift kit and just bolted it all back on.

 

[chillman88]

I feel that it will be much easier , better for future main if it is the bolt on style. I even considered to knock off the Rivet like you said and go with Grade8 but not sure if this has been done before

Lots of people do it this way. I looked and looked before I replaced mine. I just unhooked my front end when I did mine but if you properly torque the hardware you should be fine.

 

[Danielle]

I just did mine, but mostly because I was also replacing my I-beam bushings. It wasn't too bad pulling the front end forward with a ratchet strap to get the bushings on the radius arms. But I did replace one bracket anyway due to disfigurement and used a cut off wheel sideways to just grind off the rivet head, then one tap of the air hammer (probably could have just used a "manual hammer" haha). I can see for sure if that's the only thing needing replacement that those brackets are the way to go, however! Or if you have a 4x4.

 

[ifrythings]

Dorman makes a lot of replacement brackets for are trucks and they have been good fit and thickness (only thing good that Dorman makes).

I drill the rivets out and enlarge the hole to 1/2" (minor diameter of a 1/2" bolt is 7/16" which is factory size rivets) use a washer on both sides of a grade 8 bolt and a stover nut and they never come loose.

 

[Spun4Fun]

Update on what i have going on as i took a very close look over this weekend as i was replacing the Front shocks. New TPS and Windshield whiper motor

1- Radius Arm busing all in excellent shape except the passenger side one in the back close to the Nut side . So it will be very easy to replace But i have to buy the hole Kit

2- One of my I beam busing is worn out and need to be replaced.

3- Rear Right hand swing bar bar bushing need replaced ( the long link to sway bar has busing that is worn out )


4- The Radius arm bracket's i have seem to have 2 rivets and the 3rd one is a Bolt &Nut


So i figured the most PIA work will be finding a good support lift , pressing out the I beam bushing and pressing the new one In. The rest is gravy

 

[Spun4Fun]

Just curious regarding the Radius arm bushing , since i discovered the Outter bushing is the only worn part but the Moog kit comes with every thing to do both sides inside busing and outside . Would it be worth it to tear the hole thing and do it or should i go by the say

" if aint brook dont fix it "

 

[Mulochico]

When I did my lift with the TTB I figured I had it apart anyways, might as well replace it to limit the possibility of having to take it apart again.

I saw a quote from Bill Gates recently, "I chose a lazy person to do a hard job. Because a lazy person will find an easy way to do it." That said, sometimes the laziest way to do something is to just do a bit extra now to avoid having to do the job twice.