Project Thread: 89 F250 Franken Truck

hacked89

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Nope. I didn't have one. The transmission kept getting hung up on different things on the way out.
That makes sense I had to adjust it full lock to full lock. The last time I used it I was over cranking it by hand, welded a bolt to one end, put an impact on it and ended up stripping the worm gear. I don’t really feel like spending the money on another one currently and will probably join the separate in and out club for the time being.
 

1mouse3

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I've seen several people say that there's not enough material to do this. You're talking about 7/16" studs versus 1/2" studs.

You can do 9/16 but I dont recomend it. This is a "dont try this home" video on doing said task.

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Stu Bailey

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Question:
Would doing oil samples be worth the time/money to tell me how worn out the swap-in 7.3 is? Not worth it? Worth it?

Thanks & Happy Tinkering!
-CalIDI
I’m going to second oil samples. They’re cheap and interesting in my opinion. I’ve done several with Blackstone and they have always had great service. I was able to watch my results improve after I took out my bad water pump and installed a new one. I also watched the data change after I ran a Jersey to Idaho trip in my 6.9 pulling 7K. Fun stuff!

So just saw you had posted your results on the second page. I’ve definitely seen worse, I wouldn’t be too worried.
 
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CalIDI

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UPDATE:

Have everything ready on the truck for engine removal. Only things left holding the motor back are motor mounts and the tranny. The plan is to take the bobcat in, drop the transmission and move it back, then unbolt and remove the old motor, put the new one in, and re-attach the transmission.

As previously mentioned I have a running 7.3l out of the truck. We used an electric pump to test it because the mechanical one cracked (don't ask). For my purposes I wanted a mechanical one to begin with before going down the rabbit hole, so I stole the working pump off the truck.

Two Questions:
1. What things should I do to the motor before installing it. I was told to do all the sensors with factory ford stuff and reseal the oil cooler. Also Motor Mounts. Where could I get factory ford sensors? If I can find them are they worth it? Are some sensors more of a priority than others?

2. Is there anything else beside oil cooler, sensors, and motor mounts that I should look into? I don't want to spend a ton of money, but I do want a working IDI truck.


Thanks, and Happy Tinkering!
-CalIDI
 

hacked89

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The sensors are easy no need to do it out of the truck unless you know they are broken. The oil pressure sensor is a little deeper to reach but it’s like that on pretty much every older V architecture engine.

Oil cooler - absolutely
Sensors and motor mounts - sounds strange unless you know they are messed up. Not sure whose telling you that. There’s barely any sensors on this engine.

I don’t put an engine in without a compression test.
 

CalIDI

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I called around, nobody has one in my area. If I were to order one, which compression tester should I look at? Something not too expensive, but also not un-reliable. I already wrote-off HFT for diesel compression testers. Didn't work right.

Any tips? Brands? Models?
 

IDIBRONCO

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I really prefer mechanical or electrical aftermarket gauges. I keep the original senders just to make the factory gauges work.
 

hacked89

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For the price I’ve had no issue with HF compression testers, if it doesn’t work or seems off just exchange it. Understand you’ve had a bad experience but I don’t have an alternate personal recommendation.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Motor mounts is a good call. I need to do mine as both ears have cracked off my ZF5 transmission mount. So to keep that from happening, its good PM. And waaaaaaaay easier now than later!

The HFT tester works just need the diesel version and have to cut down the GP adapter.

Edit:
I personally would re-torque the head bolts, too. Not everyone agrees but it was standard practice at Ford, at least after the first 30-60k. I don't remember the intervals after that. I used to leak a bunch of coolant out the rear of the heads and after a re-torque that pretty much stopped. Then I also had much more confidence to run my turbo setup since I'd torqued the heads personally.
Some of the bolts were VERY easy to back off when I went to re-torque them. For head bolts, they were practically finger-tight. o_O
 

CalIDI

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Sensors - sounds strange unless you know they are messed up. Not sure whose telling you that. There’s barely any sensors on this engine.
My buddy forgot it wasn't a powersmoke.

Looks like Ill be gettin oil cooler seals and Etc. along with a comp tester, and motor mounts.
 

Old Goat

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As long s the engine is out, why not change the water pump. easier now than after it is installed.
You could always keep the old pump for a back up.

This pump was talked about a while back, I have no experience with it, but suppose to move more Coolant.



Goat
 

94turbocrewcab-lb

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Why not do the front and rear main seals? The oil pan is east to get to..I changed all the gaskets on the exterior of the motor. It was so easy with the motor hanging from a chain. Now the motor is in and I have to reseal my water pump!
 

hacked89

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Why not do the front and rear main seals? The oil pan is east to get to..I changed all the gaskets on the exterior of the motor. It was so easy with the motor hanging from a chain. Now the motor is in and I have to reseal my water pump!

Water pump isn’t bad at all atleast
 
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