Project Little Foot

[onetonjohn]

Glow plug issue was that I had the old relay setup to power the new controller/relay. Once I connected the new controller/relay directly to battery power, things started working much better! The glass is new to me - recycled from old parts truck I had for a while.

 

[onetonjohn]

Got the window in. It's not a perfect fit, but not sure how much I can manulipulate the seal once it's in. The lower left side has a bit where it's not sealing againt the cab. Maybe the hole window needs to shift to the left??? Not sure. For now it's better than it was. Unless there is a trick to get these things to move around once they're in. Oh, and I tested the headlights, taillights, blinkers and breaklights while I had someone over. None of them work - Ugg.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Got the window in. It's not a perfect fit, but not sure how much I can manulipulate the seal once it's in. The lower left side has a bit where it's not sealing againt the cab. Maybe the hole window needs to shift to the left??? Not sure. For now it's better than it was. Unless there is a trick to get these things to move around once they're in. Oh, and I tested the headlights, taillights, blinkers and breaklights while I had someone over. None of them work - Ugg.

I've taken a few out and put just a couple in. Did you lube the seal up with some type of grease? And is it a new seal? Or the old one?

Edit: and I can't remember how flat the glass is or if it has a curve, so could the glass be in backwards?

Edit some more: studying your picture again really close there's a 80/81 truck behind your truck........ we're gonna have to have a look at it too.....

 

[onetonjohn]

. Yeah - that's an 80 bronco. It's on the todo list after the white truck. Good eye. I didn't use anything to lube the seal, Glass is flat. Maybe if I had used something to lube it, I could adjust it a little better. Might just be what it is.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Pop the glass out, put some Vaseline on it and try again. The back glass is easy.

 

[onetonjohn]

Pop out reverse of how it went in? Pull the lip over, and then push out as I work my way around?

 

[DirtyWood]

I helped a client install new back glass in a '46 COE truck and a local auto glass shop recommended plain ol' soapy water to lubricate the rubber seal before installing the glass. I think the idea was to use something that would evaporate and not leave any greasy residue.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Pop out reverse of how it went in? Pull the lip over, and then push out as I work my way around?

Exactly. I usually have a flat bar to help hold one side once I get it started.

 

[Jesus Freak]

I helped a client install new back glass in a '46 COE truck and a local auto glass shop recommended plain ol' soapy water to lubricate the rubber seal before installing the glass. I think the idea was to use something that would evaporate and not leave any greasy residue.

That sounds like a good idea.

 

[onetonjohn]

No headlights/tailights. Battery to switch connectivity on almost all terminals (seems weird). Documenting and collecting my thoughts.

My headlight switch terminals are labeled (in the switch)
A purple/brn
B blk / ornge
D1 grn
D2 blk/pnk
H red/white
P (no connect to harness)
I blue / red Goes to rheostat

R to I (Rheostat) pin measures between 1 to 8/10 ohms
A -> R .2 ohms when witch is pulled one click out (halfway)
A -> R .2 ohms when switch is pulled all the way out (two clicks)
H -> R .3 ohms when switch is pulled all the way out.

D2 and D2 seem to be connected together (at least some of the time - rheostat off?)

H Red/white and D1 green/blue go to high beam switch

All terminals except H seem to be connected to power (That doesn't seem right). All terminals also conduct to ground. So I have a short that didn't burn up the wire yet I suppose. Pretty scary. Funny that truck starts and runs.

Pics and questions to follow.

 

[Jesus Freak]

I'll tell you this, since our trucks have 2 batteries they have a way of frying headlight switches. And if you've ever had the experience of your headlights spontaneously turning on and off with no rhyme or reason, you'll never forget it. Look into adding relays for your head lights, it's rather simple wiring, LMC even makes a "plug and play" harness.....I made my own with heavier wire.

Id say try a new switch, but add relays before you have to do ANY night driving.

 

[onetonjohn]

I ordered the headlight relay wiring from bronco graveyard this morning, so that's on the way. Need to figure out why/how my battery + is low impedance to ground. I measured get continuity from this yellow wire junction that actually connects to several wires to almost all leads in headlight connector, but more troubling is that it also is low impedance to ground. No idea how this didn't catch fire or burn up wires when battery was connected. Strange that I don't even get a spark when connecting ground of the battery to complete the circuit. Plan is to get a single terminal connector, and put ring connectors on all the wires in that yellow wire junction and test/ connect them one at a time to find the short.

I didn't check the headlights, brake lights, blinkers when I bought the truck, and tore it down before testing everything (mistake). So I don't know if they every worked (suspect stereo installation), or if I broke it when I disassembled/assembled. Lesson learned.

 

[onetonjohn]

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[onetonjohn]

That's the yellow wire junction. These splices appear solid, but not factory. Pulled all the electrical tape off all the junctions around alternator when I found wires held together with zip tie and covered in electrical tape. I think I'll add a small fuse box for high current circuits, or one's prone to burn up (once I figure out what they are).

 

[onetonjohn]

Don't see this kind of craftsmanship every day...