Is that the SPI epoxy? I would like to use it. It is supposed to be much easier to sand and you should be able to fix runs and orange peel. The roof looks really good.
Project Big Red
- Thread starter laserjock
- Start date
Yes it's the SPI. I have not tried to sand it yet but I can tell you the customer service is great. I bought this stuff 2 years ago and they still answer emails very quickly.
Another little issue I have to sort out is some way of hanging out over the roof. Even with my wing span, I'm just tossing the paint at the roof on the last couple strokes in the middle.
Another little issue I have to sort out is some way of hanging out over the roof. Even with my wing span, I'm just tossing the paint at the roof on the last couple strokes in the middle.
The stuff lays out really nice. You shoot it and think omg that looks horrible how will I fix that then come back in a little while and it's laid out pretty smooth.
Directions say to shoot it with a 1.8-2.0 tip. Honestly, I was considering dropping back a size. It puts a lot of paint out with that big tip and it's not real thick once you add the catalyst.
Directions say to shoot it with a 1.8-2.0 tip. Honestly, I was considering dropping back a size. It puts a lot of paint out with that big tip and it's not real thick once you add the catalyst.
F350camper
BOOST!
You might consider painting the roof by itself and breaking at the seams and window in the back and the drip rail on the sides. You could set up some form of scaffolding on the sides and/or rear of the cab and deal with that alone before doing the rest of the cab in a second session.
I thought about that but it's the lateral reach. Being ext cab, can't reach the front from the back. Tried that. Having a super hard time reaching the center of the roof from the sides. May put a handle on a rope or something to hang on to to lean out over the cab. Not sure yet.
I think I solved my air issues. I hope so anyway. The auto drain was not working and I think that was causing the dryer to freeze up and clog. I noticed I hadn't been getting water out of it for a while so hopefully that solves it.
I sent pics to Andy Kives at SPI and he gave me some feedback. He said to turn the flow down a bit. His thought on the separation problem was that there may have been residual water from the wax and grease remover. The sheet says 30 minutes before shooting. He said make it an hour. After thinking about it, the areas or most grief were the areas I wiped down last after masking so that could be it.
Good news is there should be plenty of paint to sand the bad spots out. The bad news is I'll have to sand out the bad spots. I'm probably going to have to shoot it again anyway as I doubt I'll make the recoat window right now. We shall see.
In the mean time, I'm trying to get things ready to prime the hood and fenders before my mixed epoxy goes bad. Have till Wednesday for 72 hrs. Might be able to stretch a hair due to storage temperature but I won't push my luck.
This fender needed a little work.
I know it's not perfect, but I'm afraid to screw with it anymore for fear of making it worse.
That's where we are tonight.
I think I solved my air issues. I hope so anyway. The auto drain was not working and I think that was causing the dryer to freeze up and clog. I noticed I hadn't been getting water out of it for a while so hopefully that solves it.
I sent pics to Andy Kives at SPI and he gave me some feedback. He said to turn the flow down a bit. His thought on the separation problem was that there may have been residual water from the wax and grease remover. The sheet says 30 minutes before shooting. He said make it an hour. After thinking about it, the areas or most grief were the areas I wiped down last after masking so that could be it.
Good news is there should be plenty of paint to sand the bad spots out. The bad news is I'll have to sand out the bad spots. I'm probably going to have to shoot it again anyway as I doubt I'll make the recoat window right now. We shall see.
In the mean time, I'm trying to get things ready to prime the hood and fenders before my mixed epoxy goes bad. Have till Wednesday for 72 hrs. Might be able to stretch a hair due to storage temperature but I won't push my luck.
This fender needed a little work.
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I know it's not perfect, but I'm afraid to screw with it anymore for fear of making it worse.
That's where we are tonight.
MarX740
Registered User
Damn what a journey! This thread is great, amazing seeing it come together. Build goals for a lot of folks, myself included.
Nearly there too! Can't wait to see it all buttoned up
Nearly there too! Can't wait to see it all buttoned up
junk
Full Access Member
Yeah that primer looked good to me. I'm impressed you were able to prime the whole cab and doors in one shot like that. I would caution though on painting that much at one time. Painting jambs is a different gun setup than painting the outside for me. If I hit jambs with my full size I end up putting a lot of material on, so I'll turn down the gun. But doing the sides and roof I'd be full open.
I like the handle up top to help steady yourself. Only caution. Make sure it can't hold dirt! I grabbed a rafter one time when painting a truck and put grit all down a door.
Looking great! It's turning out awesome.
I like the handle up top to help steady yourself. Only caution. Make sure it can't hold dirt! I grabbed a rafter one time when painting a truck and put grit all down a door.
Looking great! It's turning out awesome.
I've got a lot of sanding to do on the primer. Good thing this stuff is supposed to sand well. 
I needed a better way to deal with the hood so I came up with this.
It's a 10" 1/2" lag screw with a rubber foot on top to keep things from moving.
Let's me adjust the legs and the hood sets really solid.
I hung the fenders up too. Not thrilled by the hanging method but it is doable.
Going to try to get them scuffed and primed tomorrow.
I needed a better way to deal with the hood so I came up with this.
You must be registered for see images attach
It's a 10" 1/2" lag screw with a rubber foot on top to keep things from moving.
You must be registered for see images attach
Let's me adjust the legs and the hood sets really solid.
You must be registered for see images attach
I hung the fenders up too. Not thrilled by the hanging method but it is doable.
You must be registered for see images attach
Going to try to get them scuffed and primed tomorrow.
Well, the saga continues. I was actually wrong about the pot life on the primer. It's actually longer than I thought. It calls for 72-120 hours. Anyway, I got 2 coats of primer on the fenders and hood.
I'm still having problems though. I'm getting spots like this.
I'm wiping down multiple times with the waterborne wax and grease remover SPI recommends (their product). I've been talking to junk about it and we've been batting ideas back and forth but I'm open to suggestions. It's probably a rookie mistake, but at this point I just need to solve it. As of now, I'm going to try to push my way through and sand down the bad spots and reprime them if necessary before putting the 2k primer on.
Anyway. Progress.
You must be registered for see images attach
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I'm still having problems though. I'm getting spots like this.
You must be registered for see images attach
I'm wiping down multiple times with the waterborne wax and grease remover SPI recommends (their product). I've been talking to junk about it and we've been batting ideas back and forth but I'm open to suggestions. It's probably a rookie mistake, but at this point I just need to solve it. As of now, I'm going to try to push my way through and sand down the bad spots and reprime them if necessary before putting the 2k primer on.
Anyway. Progress.
F350camper
BOOST!
Is there silicone spray anywhere in your shop? I've had those exact spots show up on me because of it. And it seemed to want to wipe around vs wipe off... Just a thought
I don't think so. It looks like surface contamination to me but I'm wiping down with clean fresh x60 wipes and nitrile gloves. Ideas we've batted around are not enough texture, contamination, too much paint, contamination in the gun or paint. I really don't know. The good/interesting thing is it seems to cover on the second coat. Depending on how bad it was, the result ranges from nasty orange peel to ugly mess. Nothing really to do but sand it back and recoat any bare spots then move on.
I decided I'm taking the night off. Well... Sorta.
I put some heat in the garage just to try and be kind to my epoxy primer. While I was out there to shut the heat off I just had to know how screwed I was in sanding out the bad spots in the epoxy primer. The answer, not too screwed at all I don't think.
In about 15 minutes I had all the runs sanded out of the pass side. This stuff sands really nice. No gumming up the paper or anything like I figured. I don't know if you'd want to just because it's slow, but I really think you could block a car out with this SPI epoxy. So far I haven't even sanded through anywhere. I'm very tempted to load my long board up with 400 and knock the orange peel down a little all over it. Recoat window closes Sunday. I'm hoping to have it all sanded out and prepped by Saturday night so I can put the 2k on it. Honestly, if I don't make it in not going to fret because it scuffs so easy. The only problem is according to the sheet you are supposed to put a fresh coat of epoxy down before the next step. I'm not sure I understand that if you've scuffed the surface but I'm not sure I've got enough material to shoot it all again. I probably would have to reduce it to like a sealer with what I have left.
@junk I'll be bugging you.
I put some heat in the garage just to try and be kind to my epoxy primer. While I was out there to shut the heat off I just had to know how screwed I was in sanding out the bad spots in the epoxy primer. The answer, not too screwed at all I don't think.
You must be registered for see images attach
In about 15 minutes I had all the runs sanded out of the pass side. This stuff sands really nice. No gumming up the paper or anything like I figured. I don't know if you'd want to just because it's slow, but I really think you could block a car out with this SPI epoxy. So far I haven't even sanded through anywhere. I'm very tempted to load my long board up with 400 and knock the orange peel down a little all over it. Recoat window closes Sunday. I'm hoping to have it all sanded out and prepped by Saturday night so I can put the 2k on it. Honestly, if I don't make it in not going to fret because it scuffs so easy. The only problem is according to the sheet you are supposed to put a fresh coat of epoxy down before the next step. I'm not sure I understand that if you've scuffed the surface but I'm not sure I've got enough material to shoot it all again. I probably would have to reduce it to like a sealer with what I have left.
@junk I'll be bugging you.
I have been a lurker on the SPI forum and Hotrodders bulletin board. Some pretty knowledgeable guys do all their blocking with the SPI epoxy. If you don't have any break throughs you should be able to go to the next step. If inside the recoat window it doesn't need to be scuffed, but it seems a lot of guys like to sand with the grit needed before the next step, even putting the color coat over properly sanded epoxy. Don't try this with other brands PPG doesn't like to be sanded. Check with Barry at SPI, but I believe if you add newly mixed epoxy with some previously mixed the pot life starts at the beginning again. If it has started to thicken don't add to it.
The other issue seems to be contamination of some sort. Do you have a dedicated air hose just for painting? I am afraid to use a hose for painting that I use for an air tool due to the oil used to lubricate the air tool. Stuff like Armor All or WD 40 are bad juju. I heard of a guy that had issues painting a bicycle frame after transporting it in a car that had Armor All used on the interior. SPI also sells a solvent based wax and grease remover, and they use it after the water based because the water based is slower drying. I think the solvent based may remove a contaminant that the water based would not. When you wipe down, the W&G remover should be wiped off with a clean paper towel while still wet as the contaminants are suspended. I use a wet paper towel to apply and follow with a dry one to remove, so you can't treat too large an area at a time.
The other issue seems to be contamination of some sort. Do you have a dedicated air hose just for painting? I am afraid to use a hose for painting that I use for an air tool due to the oil used to lubricate the air tool. Stuff like Armor All or WD 40 are bad juju. I heard of a guy that had issues painting a bicycle frame after transporting it in a car that had Armor All used on the interior. SPI also sells a solvent based wax and grease remover, and they use it after the water based because the water based is slower drying. I think the solvent based may remove a contaminant that the water based would not. When you wipe down, the W&G remover should be wiped off with a clean paper towel while still wet as the contaminants are suspended. I use a wet paper towel to apply and follow with a dry one to remove, so you can't treat too large an area at a time.
Yes. I have a dedicated air line.... crap... wait.... I have one section of hose after the dryer that is not new. It was my old painting hose that I had to use for something else... and it is feeding my brand new clean section. I have a separator/ regulator prior to my new hose. That piece has always been after the dryer though. I suppose its possible that this would be a problem but I really don't think so.
When I do my wipe down, I put the W&G remover in a clean spray bottle and wet down a section of fender then take a clean cloth and wipe it down good until its dry, refolding several times especially on the first pass. It is probably a rookie mistake on the wipe down that is getting me. I talked to Andy at SPI and he thought I wasn't waiting long enough after using the W&G remover and there were small residual moisture spots. I think that could be the problem. I really thought I had waited long enough but maybe I just got impatient.
Anyway, if it sands out as easy as it seems to, I'm not going to fret too long about it. I think I'm going to block the big panels anyway and see where that gets me to get rid of some of the orange peel. I think I put it on heavier than I was supposed to so sanding a little off I think will be no harm no foul. I intentionally put it to the rockers underneath to the point they were trying to drip. Want them sealed up since they aren't getting color.
When I do my wipe down, I put the W&G remover in a clean spray bottle and wet down a section of fender then take a clean cloth and wipe it down good until its dry, refolding several times especially on the first pass. It is probably a rookie mistake on the wipe down that is getting me. I talked to Andy at SPI and he thought I wasn't waiting long enough after using the W&G remover and there were small residual moisture spots. I think that could be the problem. I really thought I had waited long enough but maybe I just got impatient.
Anyway, if it sands out as easy as it seems to, I'm not going to fret too long about it. I think I'm going to block the big panels anyway and see where that gets me to get rid of some of the orange peel. I think I put it on heavier than I was supposed to so sanding a little off I think will be no harm no foul. I intentionally put it to the rockers underneath to the point they were trying to drip. Want them sealed up since they aren't getting color.
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