Project Big Red

[Andertusa]

What color you planning to paint this thing again?

 

[laserjock]

Not to be a smart a$$ but it will be red.


Specifically it will be SPI Red. It's pretty close to the bright reds of the era. That's what my 88 was (I want to say they called it medium scarlet). I went with all SPI products. Epoxy, 2k, base and clear. So far I have shot the epoxy and it is really nice. Haven't shot anything else yet but I think I will be happy.

 

[Andertusa]

I was just wondering if it was gonna be a 'metallic' red, because if it was, painting it hanging-up would distort the 'lay' of the flakes and make that hood look strange compared to the fenders; as metallics are supposed-to be painted in the orientation they will be seen in. I figured the red was a given.

 

[laserjock]

No metallic. Straight color. I'm not going to paint the hood hanging up. I'm leaning towards painting the truck assembled less the bed.

 

[Andertusa]

Sounds like a decent plan.

 

[laserjock]

Did a little more cutting this evening. Hoping for a significant update tomorrow. Got a lot of little repairs on the drivers side. The inner part of the door post is gone and its perforated all along the seam at the rocker. I'll cut out what I can, treat the rest and close it up. That's all I can do.

 

[Andertusa]

I'll admit that I've only been 'half-arsed' paying attention to this thread, but what are you doing as your rust prevention against further degradation and to treat your bare steel again?

 

[laserjock]

So far the rusty bits have gotten POR metal prep or ospho or both and either priming and painting with implement paint; por15; or epoxy primer. It depends on what is most convenient at the time. If I didn't sand blast it clean, it probably got metal prep and por. If I did get it clean it probably got implement paint and primer. Possibly zinc plated if I could get it in a 5 gallon bucket. For the sheet metal that's not practical obviously. Metal repairs, at a minimum I try to get weld through primer on the joints inside and out. If you look at the cab corner repairs, I even cut access holes in from the inside the cab so I can get paint in there.

It's a complicated process. At the end of the day you just do the best you can given the situation.

 

[Andertusa]

Sounds about like what I'm thinking too.

 

[laserjock]

Little progress. Got a bunch cut out.

You must be registered for see images attach

I went as far as I thought I dared. There's not much connectivity to the rocker at the moment. Then I cut out and bent up the replacement part for the rear outer rocker. Tacked it in the corners.

You must be registered for see images attach

Ran the body saw around it and then pecked it in flush and welded it in.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Dirty shame nobody will ever see it. That little part is probably the nicest patch I've done so far.

I'm going to try to get it etched and painted inside tomorrow so I can get the B pilar welded back together. I can actually get paint in places right now so I hate to miss the opportunity.

 

[Andertusa]

Just think, each time you do a 'patch' or repair, the better you'll get, and you'll gain more 'feel' for the metal and what can be done with it.

 

[laserjock]

I'm about tired of getting better at it. Just want it to be over. With 100 degree heat index and my steel garage nothing happened yesterday. I'd just sweat all over it and rust it faster.

 

[Andertusa]

Hey, think of it this way, everything you've learned and are continuing to learn about this process will help you later if you need to fix the body on a car or whatever. 'Auto Body' is only useful as a class if you're gonna be a 'bodyman', but it's a great skill to have for fixing your own( or a friend's) stuff.

 

[junk]

Laser,

You running a real body saw or sawsall round the patch to get the fit perfect? If it is a body saw who's do you have? I have a HF saw and it's spotty at best for cutting things. I recently got a milwaukee M12 saw and think it might work good for trimming to fit.

Looking great as always!!! Every thing helps. Wish my doors were as straight as yours. I'm frustrated with my frugalness when I sourced panels. I should have started with better.

later,
Jeremy

 

[laserjock]

I picked up an air body saw from HF. Junk. No pun intended. Went and bought the electric version. Did pretty good until the first one died. I'm on my second one. So far so good. I would recommend either a good air or good electric one. The big differnce is the number of strokes per second. The air saw is much faster and probably would cause less distortion. The electric one is basically a jig saw in linear form so it can grab and carry on a bit especially once the blade is getting dull. It is a great tool for doing fittment work. The thin blade is just about perfect for butt welding the panels in. I watched the guy on powerblock fit a trunk pan like this and thought... damn... that's a good idea. If you cut both panels at the same time, it's got to fit right? Well... pretty much anyway. Doing the floor pans, I left a couple tabs and screwed the replacements in a rough size I needed over the bad spots and traced the new piece with the saw, then cut the extra tabs off last. Usually dropped in pretty easy. Sometimes I would get one end in and tacked up then run the saw around it again to get the high spots.