While in a previous position as a supervisor in a manufacturing plant, one of my guys had a grinder wheel fly apart and pieces of the wheel were stuck in his stomach / abdomen area and some a little lower! OUCH!!! Obviously resulting in a trip to the hospital........ He was grinding an aluminum casting which was on a bench at waist height. The problem, he was using a grinding wheel designed for steel not aluminum. The aluminum clogged the wheel, it became out of balance and eventually flew apart!
Project Big Red
- Thread starter laserjock
- Start date
Not a ton of progress to report. Worked the welds down. Think I need another round on them to catch a couple more pin holes on this side, then it's off to the other side. I have revised my paint booth plans again but I'm locking it it this time I think. More on that as I get closer. Holy crap, I'm close to being ready for it. Hood didn't come Friday as anticipated so probably Monday.
Injectors and cam are ordered. Had a conversation with promar about the engine. Here's the gist of it. They want $4045 for the long block with my cam and them buying the studs. They want $3199 if I supply the cam and studs. If you do a little math, they are charging me $846 for a set of studs. I can get them through Amazon for $485. The caveat is they claim they won't waranty a stud failure if they don't supply the studs. So the question I'm wrestling with is the extra $300+ worth the insurance. I haven't made up my mind yet but I'm leaning toward no. Honestly, I'm not sure how good the warranty will be anyway and I don't think I could do it myself for $3200.
Anyone who would like to weigh in on that question please do. Hopefully more tomorrow.
Injectors and cam are ordered. Had a conversation with promar about the engine. Here's the gist of it. They want $4045 for the long block with my cam and them buying the studs. They want $3199 if I supply the cam and studs. If you do a little math, they are charging me $846 for a set of studs. I can get them through Amazon for $485. The caveat is they claim they won't waranty a stud failure if they don't supply the studs. So the question I'm wrestling with is the extra $300+ worth the insurance. I haven't made up my mind yet but I'm leaning toward no. Honestly, I'm not sure how good the warranty will be anyway and I don't think I could do it myself for $3200.
Anyone who would like to weigh in on that question please do. Hopefully more tomorrow.
sapo516
Registered User
Awsome thread man!!! All tht rust i would go crazy lol
dude keep it up
dude keep it up
If you liked all that there is plenty more. [emoji15]
So I started exploratory surgery on the drivers side. Not surprisingly I found filler. What was surprising was the amount of filler I found.
I ran to about 3" short of the top body line. It wasn't all that thick but there was a lot of it. This made me stop and scratch my head. Okay, need to keep sanding. Eventually after not finding a seam, but finding this:
It dawns on me that what I thought was a rust repair was actually a collision repair...done poorly. The holes I'm guessing were for a slide hammer. There's s crude hole ripped in the inside sheet metal which I had thought was a hole to shoot some corrosion protection stuff in but now I'm pretty sure it was to try to push the panel out. I'm guessing maybe side swiped a pole at some point.
Anyway, drew some lines and made a hole after I spent some time straightening up the door body lines.
Lots more work on the inside structure on this side. The good news is that I was able so save a little at the corner so I'm not going to have to stretch the panel. I will have to cut out on the other side of the corner (cab rear) but that's easier I hope.
So I started exploratory surgery on the drivers side. Not surprisingly I found filler. What was surprising was the amount of filler I found.
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I ran to about 3" short of the top body line. It wasn't all that thick but there was a lot of it. This made me stop and scratch my head. Okay, need to keep sanding. Eventually after not finding a seam, but finding this:
You must be registered for see images attach
It dawns on me that what I thought was a rust repair was actually a collision repair...done poorly. The holes I'm guessing were for a slide hammer. There's s crude hole ripped in the inside sheet metal which I had thought was a hole to shoot some corrosion protection stuff in but now I'm pretty sure it was to try to push the panel out. I'm guessing maybe side swiped a pole at some point.
Anyway, drew some lines and made a hole after I spent some time straightening up the door body lines.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Lots more work on the inside structure on this side. The good news is that I was able so save a little at the corner so I'm not going to have to stretch the panel. I will have to cut out on the other side of the corner (cab rear) but that's easier I hope.
Oh yeah, forgot to mention when I got almost across the top cut the panel popped in... like rubbermaid. It comes pre-warped. SO my easier panel will have it's own difficulties getting it out and lined up reasonable. It may have more filler in it when I'm done than the last guy had in it.... but it won't have any big rust holes.
junk
Full Access Member
Ah- Oil canning. Nothing I hate more. These newer vehicles have no metal in them. I would recommend trying to get the oil canning out before doing any filler work. It's hard to do blocking when the panel changes shape all the time.
Overall this side doesn't look too bad though. Looks pretty good in there!
Overall this side doesn't look too bad though. Looks pretty good in there!
if you remember my hood mod,
i used some 1/2" box tubing to control the oil canning.
if you decide to go this route, make sure you drill holes in your new panel so you can "spot" weld them to the
1/2" tubing.
doing filler work with oil canning is next to imposable.
every time you hit it with the sander, the metal will move.
i used some 1/2" box tubing to control the oil canning.
if you decide to go this route, make sure you drill holes in your new panel so you can "spot" weld them to the
1/2" tubing.
doing filler work with oil canning is next to imposable.
every time you hit it with the sander, the metal will move.
It's a little worse than the other side. The door post is pretty bad on this one. Little patch needed to the rocker out there in the middle. I still think for purposes of fitment I'm in better shape with this side. Amazing how you are almost always smarter the second time.
Thats an interesting idea. I think its pretty close to right out at the ends. I don't think there is much contour in the horizontal direction. I could cut a piece of something to lay in there and flaten it out maybe as a stiffener and straightener. Hmm. That may be worth the effort. I'll have to ponder on that.
Thats an interesting idea. I think its pretty close to right out at the ends. I don't think there is much contour in the horizontal direction. I could cut a piece of something to lay in there and flaten it out maybe as a stiffener and straightener. Hmm. That may be worth the effort. I'll have to ponder on that.
Hood arrived....mangled.
Shipping another. It's way worse than the picture shows. Glad I waited since Friday for it. [emoji35]
The outside box is just gone. My old hoods were way better than that.
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Shipping another. It's way worse than the picture shows. Glad I waited since Friday for it. [emoji35]
The outside box is just gone. My old hoods were way better than that.
GENIUSLOERTS
Full Access Member
That will straighten out just fine
[emoji35][emoji35][emoji35]
The more I cut, the more I need to cut. Have to repair the rocker on this side. Probably should have on the other side but this side is eat up. I have a repair panel for the door post that actually will be pretty good I think. I'll have to patch the inside piece of the door post too. I'm about fed up with this and I still have the bed to do. [emoji35][emoji35][emoji35][emoji35]
While I was down there I happened to notice this.
That's a little worse than I thought. Oh well. Just fix it I guess.
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The more I cut, the more I need to cut. Have to repair the rocker on this side. Probably should have on the other side but this side is eat up. I have a repair panel for the door post that actually will be pretty good I think. I'll have to patch the inside piece of the door post too. I'm about fed up with this and I still have the bed to do. [emoji35][emoji35][emoji35][emoji35]
While I was down there I happened to notice this.
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That's a little worse than I thought. Oh well. Just fix it I guess.
junk
Full Access Member
Wow that hood got toasted!! Yeah no buffing that out.
Sorry you keep finding more rust in the rocker area. The door on the part truck any better? Door lip rust sucks. Can you clean it up or are you going to have to weld in new metal?
- Jeremy
Sorry you keep finding more rust in the rocker area. The door on the part truck any better? Door lip rust sucks. Can you clean it up or are you going to have to weld in new metal?
- Jeremy
I haven't stuck the grinder to it yet but I think it will be close. I may just go with it for now. I knew that both doors had a little bit starting in the seam but evidently when I made my decision not to buy door shells, I was looking at the other door. Doors are easy enough to change so for now, I guess I'll give it a best effort and see how it goes. The frustrating thing is that I had brand new FORD door sitting at my folks house that I was going to put on my 88 before it got totalled years ago that apparently got let go with my brothers 91. 
With all the bad luck I've had with the repair panels, repop doors scare me to death and they are not inexpensive. I'll probably patch it up and if I get a few years out of it and I'm happy with the truck, I may be planning a trip west anyway.
With all the bad luck I've had with the repair panels, repop doors scare me to death and they are not inexpensive. I'll probably patch it up and if I get a few years out of it and I'm happy with the truck, I may be planning a trip west anyway.
junk
Full Access Member
Yeah, I would look for a clean factory door when the time comes in the future. That's easily shippable if need be, but will cost a couple bucks.
Oh and for spraying wax and grease remover I use one of these spray bottles. I bought one for 50 bucks at the auto body place that holds my wax & grease remover, but I have a $10 one I use for soap and water. Not sure if the high dollar one is better for chemicals or not. The ones I have don't look like that different of materials.
-Jeremy
Oh and for spraying wax and grease remover I use one of these spray bottles. I bought one for 50 bucks at the auto body place that holds my wax & grease remover, but I have a $10 one I use for soap and water. Not sure if the high dollar one is better for chemicals or not. The ones I have don't look like that different of materials.
You must be registered for see images attach
-Jeremy
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