New project questions

[TNBrett]

So I bought this truck('92 F350 7.3) knowing I was going to probably need to buy or build a motor for it. There were two connecting rods through the oil pan. So I got the original engine out and started tearing it down. Its pretty much a total write off. So, I've purchased a complete running '93 factory turbo 7.3. My plan for this truck is to eventually do some performance upgrades, but keep it reliable. I'm not really a fan of pushing stuff until it breaks. With that in mind, I'd like to address what I need to while the engine is out. My first thought is to go ahead and stud the heads, and maybe go ahead with a cam swap. But if I'm doing all that should I go ahead and put new rings and bearings in it? Help me figure out where to stop. About the only thing of any value from the original motor is a brand new IP and Injectors. I believe they are NA spec, but is there a difference? Will they be worth running on a turbo motor? I don't have unlimited time or funds for this truck, so I want to get it running and driving fairly quickly and make upgrades down the road. I just don't want to regret not addressing something now.

Brett

 

[Philip1]

With the bearings, I would at least recommend pulling a cap on a main bearing and a rod bearing and check for wear. If its worn i would replace the bearings and rings. The na ip could be good and can be run on a turbo engine if the turbo one is bad.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

As for the rings, I don't think that I'd worry about putting new ones in at this point. I say that because if there's a lot of wear in the cylinders after you pull the heads off, it would be better to have the block bored and then put new pistons and rings in. The only way that I'd recommend just putting new rings in is if there's very little wear in the cylinders. then you'd want to have the cylinders honed and would end up tearing the engine completely apart. It's hard to tell you where to stop without actually seeing the engine. Basically, I would say that if there isn't much wear in the cylinders and the bearings look good, then the rings are probably fine too. The cam is completely your choice, but the studs are good to install now if you're planning to run a turbo (which you didn't mention). Also, do not use a gasket to reseal the oil pan. There was only a bead of RTV to seal it from the factory and this is the way to put it back. If you use a gasket, it will leak sooner or later.

 

[TNBrett]

With the bearings, I would at least recommend pulling a cap on a main bearing and a rod bearing and check for wear. If its worn i would replace the bearings and rings. The na ip could be good and can be run on a turbo engine if the turbo one is bad.

I like the idea of pulling at least a cap or two and assessing things. My question with the IP and injectors was more along the lines of whether there is a difference between stock turbo and stock NA.

 

[Philip1]

There is a difference. The turbo ip has a torque screw that changes fueling based on rpm to kinda account for the lack of boost at low rpm. Most people adjust this all the way in to deliver max fuel at all times. The other difference is the turbo ip delivers slightly more fuel than the na version but can be accounted for by turning up the fuel adjustment.

 

[TNBrett]

As for the rings, I don't think that I'd worry about putting new ones in at this point. I say that because if there's a lot of wear in the cylinders after you pull the heads off, it would be better to have the block bored and then put new pistons and rings in. The only way that I'd recommend just putting new rings in is if there's very little wear in the cylinders. then you'd want to have the cylinders honed and would end up tearing the engine completely apart. It's hard to tell you where to stop without actually seeing the engine. Basically, I would say that if there isn't much wear in the cylinders and the bearings look good, then the rings are probably fine too. The cam is completely your choice, but the studs are good to install now if you're planning to run a turbo (which you didn't mention). Also, do not use a gasket to reseal the oil pan. There was only a bead of RTV to seal it from the factory and this is the way to put it back. If you use a gasket, it will leak sooner or later.

My initial thought was that if it needed rings would be to use a ball hone, but hopefully I won’t feel the need to go that far. I have a Diesel compression test kit, so I’ll at least check the compression before taking anything apart. The replacement engine is a factory turbo with the complete turbo setup still on it. I plan on upgrading it, along with more fuel at some point, so I really think studs are the way to go. Does anyone here have experience with the R&D cam? I guess it’s supposed to be specifically designed for turbos? Thanks for the oil pan RTV tip.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

so I’ll at least check the compression before taking anything apart.

That's a good idea. I hop you can check it while it's still in the truck. Otherwise it will be A LOT of turning it over by hand which won't be completely awful if you remove all of the glow plugs first.

I plan on upgrading it, along with more fuel at some point, so I really think studs are the way to go.

Then studs are most definitely the way to go and now is the time to do it while the engine's out.

Does anyone here have experience with the R&D cam? I guess it’s supposed to be specifically designed for turbos?

I know that there's some members who are running Justin's cam, but I don't know who they are. His cam is supposed to be designed for higher RPM use. Russ's (Typ4) cam is designed for lower RPM use. In my opinion, I would rather run Russ's cam so that it will help down low where you aren't building any boost. I think that you'd see more benefit that way. I may be wrong on that though.

My initial thought was that if it needed rings would be to use a ball hone,

That would probably work although it's mostly used for deglazing the cylinders. I think that it would be better to actually have it done with a cylinder hone (with stones) in order to help break in the new rings. Also be aware that there may be a ring ridge in one or more cylinders that will have to be removed before pulling the pistons. You can break a ring land on a piston by trying to remove it with too much ring ridge.

One more thing, you can get a lot of power out of the stock Factory Turbo pump and injectors just by doing some pump tuning and by opening up the wastegate on the turbo in order to get more boost. Also an intercooler is a good idea at this point since you want to go over the stock power levels eventually. That can open up another can of worms. After I get my Ex Wife truck running with the 6.9, I'm going to install an intercooler, turn the fuel up all the way, and open up the wastegate on my ATS 093 (practically the same thing as the Factory Turbo) just to see what it will do before I (someday) put the built up 7.3 in there. With luck, I'll be able to run my Typ4 cam as well.